Changing the "infamous" flex fuel filter

bbb9696 · August 24, 2006

When I reached the 12,000 mile mark on my 2002 Tahoe, I decided it was time to change the fuel filter. The owner’s manual gave me the model number of the fuel filter. It crossed indexed to a Fram G3727. I had several of those on hand, as the 3 other GM vehicles in my household used that same filter. Well, I crawled underneath to find a filter that didn’t match the G3727. It was threaded on the inlet side and had a quick connect fitting on the outlet. A visit to the Fram website showed a different filter for a Flex Fuel vehicle. I wished the owner’s manual had given me that info. Went to the parts house and picked up the filter. The guy at the counter said I would need a “GM fuel line disconnect” tool. I took it and the filter and headed home. Tried everyway I could, but it was a no go on getting the quick connect side to release. I eventually tried every disconnect tool I could find, but the results were the same. Now it’s time to go to the dealer. The parts guy there said I needed a specialty tool made by Kent-Moore, and he didn’t sell it. I gave up and had the dealer change the filter. Now fast forward to 2006. I’m changing the oil in the Tahoe and I’m still upset I can’t change my own fuel filter. The dealer has already changed it several times as I’m now nearing the 60,000 mile mark. I asked myself, am I a man or a mouse? I made my mind up then and there; I will find the elusive tool and do the job myself. An internet search yielded me 2 tools that were advertised to do the job. They were the Assenmacher #8022, and the Lisle #35000. I went to NAPA, AutoZone, and Advance Auto looking for them, but I had no luck. I found both on EBAY, but I wanted to do the job today. I tried Carquest as a last gasp, and low and behold, they had the Lisle tool. I went home, and with some effort, the Lisle tool got the quick connect to release. Inside the quick connect; there was a metal clip with 4 prongs that locked the fuel filter in place. Somehow, I had deformed one of them when taking off the filter. I attempted to bend it back in place, and of course it snapped off. Now frustrated, I head to the dealer to see if the metal clip is removable, and therefore replaceable. The parts guy told me he didn’t think either was possible, as he didn’t show a part number for it. He went on to tell me that I may have to replace the fuel line on the outlet side. It listed for $71, but I could have it for $53. I declined his generous offer and decided to think over my options. Before leaving, I asked if ever his mechanics had encountered the same problem. He said no, they just hack saw the metal nipple off on the outlet side. This allows a standard disconnect tool to be used. I also asked him why did the filter come with a plastic clip already installed, if a metal clip in the disconnect housing held the filter in place. He said he didn’t know why it was included as they just threw them away. This mad sense, since the filter I removed had no plastic clip on it. I decided to go home and see if the 3 prongs remaining on the metal clip would be enough to keep the filter from leaking. It was. I ran my Tahoe for 30 minutes and observed no leaks. Knowing that I may not be so lucky the next time I change the filter, I decided to do more research on the internet. After much effort, I actually found the metal clip for sale without the rest of the hose. It is Dorman part #800-025. Advance Auto didn’t stock it, but they ordered 2 of them for me at $4 each. Pulling out the old clip was a snap. Just bend the prongs inward, and it comes right out. The new one went in just as easy. But then I got to thinking. I wondered if the plastic clip would secure the filter if the metal clip was removed. My curiosity got the best of me. I removed the metal clip, and the filter with the plastic clip installed locked securely in place. I ran my Tahoe for 30 minutes and again observed no leaks. I decided to remove the plastic clip and reinstall the metal clip since this was the way it came from the factory. So to sum this novel up, it looks like you have a couple of options. You can buy the specialty tool, or use a hack saw and a standard fuel line disconnect tool to remove your filter if you want to continue to use the metal clip. Or, you can remove the metal clip and use the plastic clip and not need any tool since you can easily use your fingers to depress the locking tabs on the plastic clip and release it. I hope this info saves anyone else out there the same troubles I had.

woogs · September 4, 2006

I just replaced the filter on my '95 1500 and my brothers '92 explorer (am I allowed to say that here?)mine was threaded at both ends, much easier. The explorer had the quick disconnects on both ends and was a pain in the rear. I didn't know what the plastic clips were for and we ended up throwing them away. I've also go a variety of fuel line tools now, but will check out using the plastic clips next time.

thanks

-matt