Jump to content

denali says 3/4 full, cant fill!


agtandt

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well i noticed a few months ago that no matter how hard i tried, i could never fill my tank in my 2004 denali. It would register 3/4 and couldnt get any more in. Then i found that it started giving me unreliable readings. Sometimes reading empty then reading half a second later. Then full somtimes. I took it in at 35k and they found and replaced a fuel sending unit. Afterwards the not getting full problem still there. I took it back in and they said there is a TSB on this and it seems to be a fuel nozzle issue at the pumps. I dont buy it since it only started a few months ago and i have had the truck for a year. Today i noticed that a completely differant nozzle is not the solution either. HELP!!! :smash:

Posted
Well i noticed a few months ago that no matter how hard i tried, i could never fill my tank in my 2004 denali. It would register 3/4 and couldnt get any more in. Then i found that it started giving me unreliable readings. Sometimes reading empty then reading half a second later. Then full somtimes. I took it in at 35k and they found and replaced a fuel sending unit. Afterwards the not getting full problem still there. I took it back in and they said there is a TSB on this and it seems to be a fuel nozzle issue at the pumps. I dont buy it since it only started a few months ago and i have had the truck for a year. Today i noticed that a completely differant  nozzle is not the solution either. HELP!!!  :smash:

 

 

 

 

 

I forgot to mention that if i do stand at the pump and try to top it off for 10 minutes i can actually fill it. Three cents at a time takes a while to top off. And i live in California, im sure that matters.

Posted
Well i noticed a few months ago that no matter how hard i tried, i could never fill my tank in my 2004 denali. It would register 3/4 and couldnt get any more in. Then i found that it started giving me unreliable readings. Sometimes reading empty then reading half a second later. Then full somtimes. I took it in at 35k and they found and replaced a fuel sending unit. Afterwards the not getting full problem still there. I took it back in and they said there is a TSB on this and it seems to be a fuel nozzle issue at the pumps. I dont buy it since it only started a few months ago and i have had the truck for a year. Today i noticed that a completely differant  nozzle is not the solution either. HELP!!!  :smash:

 

 

 

 

 

I forgot to mention that if i do stand at the pump and try to top it off for 10 minutes i can actually fill it. Three cents at a time takes a while to top off. And i live in California, im sure that matters.

 

 

 

 

vent plugged somewhere?

Posted
Gm says all clear

 

 

 

 

I'd say they're wrong. Could be the check valve in the top of the tank, but more likely a evap vent valve.

 

 

 

 

 

 

How can i force them to take another look. The service writer is dead set on "nothing we can do, it a nozzle issue" He suggested i call gmif i was that worried about it and i asked him to call gm to see what they plan to do or will do. He called me back and said GM has no replacement or plan to help this issue, its a nozzle at the pump issue. :smash:

Posted

Go to another dealer for a second opinion. It's obvious you're not going to be able to force them to do anything if they're dead set it's a nozzle issue.

 

Here's some info that may or may not apply in your case...

 

Subject: Premature Pump Shut Off When Refueling - keywords 4.3 4.8 5.3 6.0 8.1 fill filler fuel hard hardtofill L18 L33 L35 L59 L76 LC9 LM7 LMG LQ4 LQ9 LR4 LY5 nozzle #PIT3961 - (04/05/2006)

 

 

Models: 2002-2007 Cadillac Escalade Models

 

2002-2007 Chevrolet Avalanche

 

1999-2007 Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

 

1999-2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon Models

 

Equipped with a Gasoline Engine

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

Some customers may comment that when refueling at certain fuel stations / pumps that the fuel pump shuts off prior to completely filling the fuel tank. This is not a concern with the GM fuel system but is an industry wide issue with variation in OPW 11B fuel nozzles throughout the fuel station industry.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

Until the fuel station industry can replace these nozzles with an improved versions, advise customers with this concern to try either another pump and/or another fuel station.

 

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Posted

Lets clarify something here... Is it actually not able to take the fuel because of some problem, or could it really be full already when it's reading 3/4's?

 

Usually, tanks that are difficult to fill are difficult whatever the level of the tank is. If yours only happens when it hits 3/4's, maybe it's full at that point? Can you squeeze a lot more in if you go really slow?

Posted

Thanks for clearifying, yes as i said earlier, if i take the extra 10 min it will fill the extra 4 gallons or 5 gallons 3 cents at a time. So yes it is only really 3/4 when the gauge says that :smash:

  • 2 weeks later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 363 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...