2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ignition Issues

[Chestah]

Hello,

 

I recently purchased a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended cab 5.3 liter Vortec (92,000 Miles).

 

 

I am having issues concerning the ignition and the idling and accelration after starting.

 

First off, 95% of the time my truck gives a repeating failing ignition noise at the first turn of the key.

 

Usually on my second attempt I get something similar to the first or a very weak start followed by shuttering and the engine dying. On my third try I usally get a stronger start but it very quickly starts shuttering and dies. On my forth try I get somewhat of a stronger start that has moderate amount of shuttering, but it is very sluggish and choppy for the first minute or two of driving.

 

I poured some fuel injector cleaner into my tank today, and I purchased a replacement Fuel Filter, but haven't installed it yet.

 

As of right now I am clueless to what could be going wrong, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

[rogue_rob]

Hello,

 

I recently purchased a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 Extended cab 5.3 liter Vortec (92,000 Miles).

 

 

I am having issues concerning the ignition and the idling and accelration after starting.

 

First off, 95% of the time my truck gives a repeating failing ignition noise at the first turn of the key.

 

Usually on my second attempt I get something similar to the first or a very weak start followed by shuttering and the engine dying. On my third try I usally get a stronger start but it very quickly starts shuttering and dies. On my forth try I get somewhat of a stronger start that has moderate amount of shuttering, but it is very sluggish and choppy for the first minute or two of driving.

 

I poured some fuel injector cleaner into my tank today, and I purchased a replacement Fuel Filter, but haven't installed it yet.

 

As of right now I am clueless to what could be going wrong, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

How's your battery?

[Chestah]

My battery is old, but it is working 100%.

[rjirvine]

How about cleaning your MAF? That's pretty painless. How long have the spark plugs been in? Once you get it started and warmed up then shut it down does it start right up? or do you have the same problems?

[Chestah]

How about cleaning your MAF? That's pretty painless. How long have the spark plugs been in? Once you get it started and warmed up then shut it down does it start right up? or do you have the same problems?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

The majority of the time after I have ran it for a little while it will start up without any major shutters.

 

As for my spark plugs I couldn't tell you how long they have been in, but I am going to make an effort to change them ASAP. Possibly tomorrow.

 

 

I am not familiar with the term MAF. What exactly does this refer to?

 

 

 

Thank you.

[rjirvine]

As far as spark plugs go, I'd stick with stock platinums p/n 41-952. I upgraded to the iridiums p/n 41-985 in my 2000 5.3 ( a suitable replacement) and I think the performance suffered a bit. The platinums are gapped at .040 and the stock are .060. Don't mess with either gap, they come set from the factory. You should however, use a feeler guage to make sure they are correct. I use antiseize on the threads and ignition grease on the tips when I install new plugs.

 

A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

 

The MAF is the MASS Airflow Sensor. It's in the tubing from your air filter to your intake. It looks like a big honeycomb piece after you take it out. Just unclip the wiring connector and use a common screwdriver to unscrew the clamps. Use some intake cleaner, or electrical cleaner and spray it off really well. Pay attention to the little sensors on the back side that look like tiny wires. Don't touch them or mess with them, but make sure you clean them up well.

 

I would also clean the intake. It's probably pretty dirty too. If your air filter looks like it needs to be replaced, I'd go ahead and slap a new one in too.

 

When you change the fuel filter, take the bracket mounting bolts off, that makes it easer to manipulate and I'd suggest a set of metric flare nut wrenches to get the lines off.

 

Let us know how it works when yoou're done!

[Chestah]

As far as spark plugs go, I'd stick with stock platinums p/n 41-952. I upgraded to the iridiums p/n 41-985 in my 2000 5.3 ( a suitable replacement) and I think the performance suffered a bit. The platinums are gapped at .040 and the stock are .060. Don't mess with either gap, they come set from the factory. You should however, use a feeler guage to make sure they are correct. I use antiseize on the threads and ignition grease on the tips when I install new plugs.

 

A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

 

The MAF is the MASS Airflow Sensor. It's in the tubing from your air filter to your intake. It looks like a big honeycomb piece after you take it out. Just unclip the wiring connector and use a common screwdriver to unscrew the clamps. Use some intake cleaner, or electrical cleaner and spray it off really well. Pay attention to the little sensors on the back side that look like tiny wires. Don't touch them or mess with them, but make sure you clean them up well.

 

I would also clean the intake. It's probably pretty dirty too. If your air filter looks like it needs to be replaced, I'd go ahead and slap a new one in too.

 

When you change the fuel filter, take the bracket mounting bolts off, that makes it easer to manipulate and I'd suggest a set of metric flare nut wrenches to get the lines off.

 

Let us know how it works when yoou're done!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Sure thing, I will clean my MAF and take another look at my air filter, and see about getting the sparks plugs you specified.

[Chestah]

As far as spark plugs go, I'd stick with stock platinums p/n 41-952. I upgraded to the iridiums p/n 41-985 in my 2000 5.3 ( a suitable replacement) and I think the performance suffered a bit. The platinums are gapped at .040 and the stock are .060. Don't mess with either gap, they come set from the factory. You should however, use a feeler guage to make sure they are correct. I use antiseize on the threads and ignition grease on the tips when I install new plugs.

 

A new spark plug has been released for use in the above vehicles. The new spark plug has an Iridium tip instead of the current Platinum tip. Due to the different tip design, the gap of the spark plug has also changed. The new spark plug, P/N 12571164 with AC Delco P/N 41-985, is gapped to 1.01 mm (0.040 inches) when the spark plug is made. The spark plug gap is set during manufacturing and should not be changed or damage to the spark plug may result. Any new spark plug found to not be properly gapped should not be used.

 

The MAF is the MASS Airflow Sensor. It's in the tubing from your air filter to your intake. It looks like a big honeycomb piece after you take it out. Just unclip the wiring connector and use a common screwdriver to unscrew the clamps. Use some intake cleaner, or electrical cleaner and spray it off really well. Pay attention to the little sensors on the back side that look like tiny wires. Don't touch them or mess with them, but make sure you clean them up well.

 

I would also clean the intake. It's probably pretty dirty too. If your air filter looks like it needs to be replaced, I'd go ahead and slap a new one in too.

 

When you change the fuel filter, take the bracket mounting bolts off, that makes it easer to manipulate and I'd suggest a set of metric flare nut wrenches to get the lines off.

 

Let us know how it works when yoou're done!

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Sure thing, I will clean my MAF and take another look at my air filter, and see about getting the sparks plugs you specified.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

I took my truck back to my dealer and they ran some tests on it and it is my fuel pump and they are wanting $700.