Jump to content

1st wax for new truck?


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just got my 06 sierra crew cab a week and a half ago. Is it true I should wait 3 months before waxing it for the first time? I have to park outside, is it okay to use a spray like quick detailer without having wax on the truck? Thanks for the help guys.

Posted
I just got my 06 sierra crew cab a week and a half ago. Is it true I should wait 3 months before wax it for the first time? I have to park outside, is it okay to use a spray like quick detailer without having wax on the truck? Thanks for the help guys.

 

 

 

You can wax it the day you take it off the lot. And it's totally safe to use a QD without a coat of wax on it :crackup:

Posted

In reality, there's no one wax I can reccomend. It depends on the color of your vehicle, the "look" you want the wax to produce on your paint, weather conditions, overall maitenance of the paint...

 

Seeing that winter is more or less here, I'd use a synthetic (sealant). Any quality sealant should do the trick, finf one without cleaners, that way you have the ability to layer the product and get not only added protection but it will really change the appearance of your paint. Meguiars #20, #21, Poorboys EX-P, Four Star UPP, P&S Ultracoat Wax (personally my favorite synthetic), Wolfgang sealant, and there are TONS of other quality products out there. Depending on how long your truck sat on the lot, how it was delivered, etc. it also wouldn't hurt to do a quick claying at least on the hrizontal surfaces. You can find a lot of great info about claying right here on the first page of the Appearance forum.

Synthetics, or really any wax for that matter, need up to 24 hrs to truely cure/bond to the surface. Most carnaubas (liquid or paste) cann't be layered because each additional coat cancels out the previous one. There are a select few that can be layered though.

Sealants can be layered as much as you want, you just have to give the product time to cure. This doesn't mean you have to let the product haze over for 24 hours, it can be removed as the directions say but they need time to truely "bond".

I had 2 coats of Meguiars #20 on my S-10 blazer for d**n close to 6 months and it beaded/sheeted like mad until the day I did another exteiror detail on it. All I added was a coat of Poorboys Natty's Blue about a month after I applied the #20, so the protection of the Natty's was long gone after a few months. I washed it weekly/bi-weekly with Meguiars Deep Crystal, and dried it with a spritz on Presta Spray N Shine and an Absorber. No solvents, degreasers or even bug/tar removers touched the paint during that time. I was really happy with the longevity of the product.

 

You can find #20 or #21 locally at paint supply stores or Napa Auto Parts, most stores like Kragens/AutoZone/O'Rielley's don't carry products like this.

 

You can check out the whole line-up of Wolfgang, Poorboys, Four Star, and more at www.autogeek.net. Beware, most that plan on ordering one product from their site end up with a larger check-out bill than they anticipate :crackup:

 

Dolan

Posted

Dolan,

Thank you very much for all your help. I'm going to go pick up some #21 this weekend and plan on diving into it sunday. I think I might pick up the quick claying system also. My truck is only a couple weeks old but I do park outside so I think you advice on claying is a good idea also. Thanks again for all of the useful advice. :crackup:

 

George

 

P.S. truck color is sand beige metallic

Posted
Dolan,

Thank you very much for all your help. I'm going to go pick up some #21 this weekend and plan on diving into it sunday. I think I might pick up the quick claying system also. My truck is only a couple weeks old but I do park outside so I think you advice on claying is a good idea also. Thanks again for all of the useful advice. :crackup:

 

George

 

P.S. truck color is sand beige metallic

 

 

 

Always glad to help! Both #21 or even #20 should really make the flake in that color pop. I like applying waxes/sealants with foam applicators, I'm sort of partial to the yellow Meguiars foam applicators (You can rip them or cut them apart at the seam, you get four applicators instead of two!). Foam apps seem to spread product more evenly IMO :cheers:

Posted
I like applying waxes/sealants with foam applicators, I'm sort of partial to the yellow Meguiars foam applicators (You can rip them or cut them apart at the seam, you get four applicators instead of two!). Foam apps seem to spread product more evenly IMO  :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

I agree 100%, I tried some microfiber applicators and it did not apply evenly at all, the foam ones are much better.

 

Post pics up when your done!!!!!

Posted

Check out the Meguiarsonline.com site, they will answer your detailing needs.

 

They also sell their products online at comparable rates.

 

Happy motoring.

 

I would claybar your truck then wax with 21. Use good applicators or you will have swirl marks in your paint (refer to the site to help you, I'm still learning it too)

Posted

Well I didnt get to clay and wax the truck on Sunday (one too many on Sat. night :cool: ). Im going to give it another shot on Wed. Definately will post pics, thanks to everyone for all of the advice.

George

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...