Replaced the intake gaskets

[96 Vortec]

Yesterday I replaced the lower intake manifold gaskets on my 96 K1500 5.7L. I tagged every electrical connection and wrote down everythng I unhooked or removed for later.I went through my list backwards reassembling everything. Now the truck will turn over, but not start. I'm stuck. I've been back out this morning and have checked every electrical connection, traced the plug wires to see if I had them on the distributor wrong and checked to make sure they are clipped on tight.

 

I had two problems with the whole project listed below:

 

1. When I restabbed the distributor I thought it wasn't seating all the way down because I was feeling a flat edge between the two surfaces. I pulled it up a couple inches and dropped it a couple times trying to get it right. It would seem I had it right the whole time becuse I was feeling a flat groove on the distributor itself just above the mating surface. I had turned the dist. a couple small twists to the left and right, but it is lined up with my mark on the firewall.

 

2. When it came time to remove the fuel lines, I unhooked the little bracket that holds the two metal lines to the top of the manifold. I then pulled them up only to realize that once out of the upper manifold, they were very rigid and would not move. I then realize that they run to a bracket on the rear of the manifold where they have threaded fittings that attach to the fuel lines as they run up the backside of the engine. I disconnected the lines there and removed the whole manifold assembly. I removed the fuel lines completely and had to get new O-rings to put the lines back in the manifold. THey however do not slide into the manifold all the way down to the raised area that looks like a stop for insertion of the lines. I don't know how far the fuel line is supposed to be inserted into the manifold, it doesn't seem like it will go any further.

 

I'd appreciate any help getting it started because I have to drive it to work tomorrow. Thanks. I can also provide pictures easily if anyone has any questions.

[GM-Tech]

Most likely, the distributor is not in correctly, regardless of any marks you may be lined up with. Check this out...

 

 

I would say you need to follow "Procedure B", which is about half-way down the page here...

 

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Distributor

Removal Procedure

 

Notice: If the distributor is removed from the engine, it can be re-installed using Procedure A as long as the crankshaft has not rotated from the original position.

 

If the intake manifold, the cylinder head, the crankshaft, the camshaft, the timing gear, or the complete engine was removed or replaced, Procedure B must be followed in order to correctly install the distributor. A DTC code may also indicate an incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur. Procedure B must then be used.

 

Turn OFF the ignition switch.

Remove the spark plug and the ignition coil wires from the distributor cap.

Remove the three-wire hall effect switch connector from the base of the distributor.

 

 

 

Remove the two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing.

 

 

 

Remove the distributor cap.

Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing. Identify the mark with the number 1.

Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.

Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt.

Remove the distributor.

 

As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees. This will appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting the position of the rotor segment by placing a second mark on the base of the distributor will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the distributor installation. Identify the second mark on the distributor housing at number 2.

 

Installation Procedure A

 

Remove the new distributor cap.

 

If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.

When installing the distributor, align the rotor with mark made at location 2.

 

 

 

Guide the distributor into place, making sure the mounting hole in the distributor hold down base is aligned over the mounting hole in the intake manifold.

As the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction about 42 degrees.

Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with mark on the base in location number 1. If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number 1 mark, the gear teeth of the distributor and the camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of time. In order to correct this condition, remove the distributor and reinstall it.

 

 

 

Install the cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.

 

Tighten

Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 N·m (45 lb in).

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the distributor mounting clamp and bolt.

 

Tighten

Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the three wire hall effect switch connector to the base of the distributor.

Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.

Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Refer to procedure B for proper distributor installation.

 

 

Installation Procedure B

 

Rotate the number 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.

 

 

 

Remove the distributor cap screws and the distributor cap to expose the rotor.

 

 

 

Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white alignment line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.

 

 

 

The rotor should point to the cap hold down mount nearest the flat side of the housing.

 

 

 

Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor.

Guide the distributor into place, ensuring that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the centerline of the engine.

Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned with the pointer cast into the distributor base. This pointer will have 6 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 cylinder engine. If the rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order to achieve proper alignment.

 

 

 

Install the distributor cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.

 

Tighten

Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 N·m (45 lb in).

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the distributor mounting clamp and tighten to the proper torque.

 

Tighten

Tighten the distributor clamp and the bolt to 27 N·m (20 lb ft).

 

Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

 

Install the three wire hall effect switch connectors to the base of the distributor.

Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.

Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly.

[96 Vortec]

I'm confused a little.

 

I don't know how to determine the compression stroke vs. the exhaust stroke. I will pull all 8 plugs and turn the engine over with a wrench on the crank. I will hold my finger over the spark plug hole until the puff of air pushes it out. It's the only method I have available to me at the time. Unless there is another way?

 

I hate to ask for this after you went through the trouble to find that write up, but can you walk me through it?

 

1. find TDC at the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke.

2. pull the cap and see if the rotor is pointed at the mark on the distributor

3. if not, pull the distributor, turn the rotor to the necessary mark.

4. align the oil pump shaft to the posision of the groove in the bottom of the distributor shaft.

 

Is that it or am I missing something?

[GM-Tech]

I will hold my finger over the spark plug hole until the puff of air pushes it out. It's the only method I have available to me at the time.

 

That's the way to do it. Put your finger ovre #1 and when you feel it start to puff air, you're nearing TDC.

 

No, I'm not going to walk you through it. The instructions are all right there, why do I need to repeat it?

[96 Vortec]

I did it all and when I tried to start the truck it turned over really heavily and stumbled. I assumed I had the timing 180 degrees off. So, I pulled the dist. and turned the rotor 180 degrees, put it all back together and tried to start it again. It does the same thing it did before I started, it just turns over, acts like it's about to fire then just keeps turning over. When I let go of the key, the I hear a puff of air come out of the exhaust.

[GM-Tech]

You couldn't have read it too closely otherwise you would have asked me why it talks about a 6 cylinder. Oops, wrong document.

 

In any case, here's another version I put on a webserver that includes the pictures and IS for an 8 cylinder (same really, it just says "8" instead of "6"). Try the following link...

 

http://www.miamiferret.org/mike/dist.htm

 

Follow the instructions EXACTLY.

[96 Vortec]

When I follow step 5. my rotor is facing the exact opposite direction shown in step 6.

 

Also, if the cap faces the direction shown in step 6, it will be 180 degrees away from the "8" on the distributor cap when in stalled.

 

What am I missing?

[GM-Tech]

I really don't know what you're missing or doing wrong. The instructions are definitely correct.

 

I'm sorry, I don't have any other suggestions.

[96 Vortec]

I pulled the dist. I lined up the two holes with the mark on the dist. housing, as per step 4. Pic of step 4

 

This is a pic of the position of the rotor after step 4. Pic of rotor

 

Step 6 shows the rotor facing the triangle at the top of the rotor housing. My pic shows that same triangle in the dist. housing at the top of the pic.

 

Is this correct? Well, I suppose it has to be, because it worked when I pulled it from the truck. With the rotor in this exact position, I'm supposed to line the oil pump slot up exactly with the tang in the bottom of the dist? Once done, when I drop the dist in, and align the rotor so the cap sits parallel to the firewall, the "8" is slightly clockwise of the location of the rotor. Am I suppose to line the 8 up with the rotor?

[GM-Tech]

This is a pic of the position of the rotor after step 4. Pic of rotor

 

Looks to me like the rotor in the photo of your distributor is 180 degrees opposite of the rotor in the picture in the instructions. Did you notice that? Yours points down, jusrt to the left of the electrical connector, the instructions show it pointing just the opposite, right at that triangular tab on the dist. housing at the top.

[96 Vortec]

That is the way the rotor was mounted when I pulled it. I took the rotor off and it will only mount to the distributor in that exact position.

 

I just lined the oil pump with the oil tang, both parallel with the centerline of the truck. It will start, but runs rough. I checked the timing and the timing mark is at 12:00 (at the very top) which is advanced. I've been in this position three times now. If I pull the dist. and turn the oil pump so the dist. will sit one tooth counterclockwise, I can't get the truck to start. Am I correct in assuming that the timing is 1 tooth off?

[GM-Tech]

That is the way the rotor was mounted when I pulled it.  I took the rotor off and it will only mount to the distributor in that exact position.

 

Weird. Dunno what to tell you about that. It does sound like you're off a tooth and keep in mind, you don't set the timing with a timing light and looking at the mark on the balancer/timing cover. On the V8, it's set with a tech 2 scanner as I recall (been awhile) and you're looking for camshaft retard to be at zero degrees.

[96 Vortec]

I can get the truck running. If I retard the timing one tooth, the truck won't start. With it back to where I have it running, I took it to the parts store last night and had a code scan run. It came back with the P1345, which in your first post, means the dist. is installed wrong. They cleared the codes and it came right back on.

 

Do I need to have to have it hooked to the big computer at a garage to reset the computer and time the engine?

 

What is the likelyhood that I have the dist. 180 degrees off?

[Brain]

I think your going to have to take the truck to someone with a scaner to set the timing. If the engine is still running now you must be close. You could try loosening the dist clamp bolt and turn dist alittle either way. clear the code after each try.