Jump to content

4.3L Fuel Pressure/Hard Starting Question


ricobeach

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone,

 

Hopefully you gurus can give me some pointers on what to try next with my 2000 Silverado 4.3L (105,000 mi) hard starting problem.

 

For the past month, about 60% of the time it has been harder to start then usual (longer time cranking before starting). It doesn't seem to matter much if the engine is cold or warm. Sometimes it starts immediately, sometimes it needs to crank for 3-5 seconds (it has never failed to start). Once started and warmed up it runs reasonably well but occasionally runs a bit rough for a few seconds (noticable at stop lights but tachometer does not jump at all).

 

I have replaced the normal items such as spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor. They were not worn too badly but need swapping due to mileage and to take them out of the equation. Fuel filter replaced at the 93k mark and battery only 13 months old.

It also had a "Service Engine Soon" light come on about 15 miles after a refueling. It went away shorly after I reset the gas cap. However a scan tool indicated a "P0300" code stored (multi cylinder misfire detected). This occured about 5 weeks ago and has not occured again.

 

I did test the fuel pressure this weekend and this showed a problem. During the initial priming of the pump (key turned to "on" position, not started yet), the pressure read 60 psi. Once the whine of the pump stopped, the pressure dropped to zero. I obviously have a leak somewhere. Once the engine was started, the pressure read 51 psi while idling. When gas pedal was pushed, the pressure would increase to about 55 psi but quickly settled back down to 51 psi. I assume that this indicates that the fuel pressure regulator is working. Any ideas on other things to check? Is it possible to check whether the fuel pump check value has failed and simply lets fuel cycle back down through the return line, thus depleting the fuel pressure to zero before startup?

The fuel pump was replaced 10 months ago with a aftermarket pump by a professional shop. If there is an easy way to check whether the pump is having problems, please let me know. The pump is still under warranty so I could have the shop remove it and replace it (hopefully).

 

Sorry for the long description but I wanted to get the symptoms across with as many facts as possible. Thanks for any suggestions for me to try next.

 

Rico

Posted
Once the whine of the pump stopped, the pressure dropped to zero.

 

This sounds like a bad check valve in the fuel pump (new or not), and the cause of your starting problem, but I can only be 90% sure without added diagosis. If it wasn't a 4.3, I might feel more positive but these are know for fuse pressure regulator leaks, plus two plastic lines in the plenum that feed to the injector assembly.

Posted

the proper way to diagnose "loss of rest pressure" concern is to restrict the fuel feed pipe, and return pipe and see if you still lose pressure, if it holds pressure until you open the ckt then the pump is to blame, but I would suspect the regulator due to the drivability symptoms you described, if you have an inspection mirror and a flashlight, you can either remove the throttle body, or intake hose assy and hold wide open throttle, but if the regulator is leaking that bad you can actually see it drip, and/or the intake manifold under the regulator will be "washed" from fuel and clean, your misfire concern may or may not be related, w/out viewing your freeze frame data, hard to tell, but you may or may not be a candidate for "special policy" injectors retrofit, I recommend take it to the dealer and check for special policy candidate, because if they replace your injectors (free) it comes w/new regulator........if you need more info feel free to e-mail me at:

[email protected]

Posted

Thanks GM-Tech and slowpokebanshee for the replys.

I will try to further narrow the problem down by attempting to check the fuel pressure regulator this weekend per Slowpokebanshee's comments. If I cannot due to Christmas gatherings, I will have to take it in for a proper diagnosis and repair. I'm hoping that it is the fuel pump (for warranty replacement) but I also agree with GM-Tech that the 4.3l has had problems with the fuel pressure regulator leaking. This was mentioned a lot in my google search findings.

Whenever I get this resolved, I will post the results.

Happy Holidays everyone,

 

Rico

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Quick update to my 4.3l hard starting and fuel pressure problem. It turns out that the CPI (central port injection) system was bad. The poppets and lines were leaking so I had to have the entire CPI system replaced. So far it seems to have fixed the problems. Unfortunately I did have to pay out of pocket for the repair. Hopefully nothing else goes wrong with this vehicle for quite awhile.

 

Rico

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 713 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...