Tire fitment question...another

Khaos05 · March 4, 2007

I'm looking to get:

- ford keys and crank

- 3in block in the rear

- new set of procomp shocks

hopefully this will give me about a 3" lift...i REALLY want to fit 35in BFG M/Ts or mickey thompson MTZs. Does anyone have this setup or have pictures of it (or something very similar) Does anyone know if this is enough for 35s? I know a 3in body lift will fit 35s, but i'm not sure about this setup.

35x12.50x17 (315/70/17) is what I want to run.

Ranger · March 5, 2007

1500 or 2500/3500? Either way you might be able to fit them if you're willing to trim the fenderwells a bit and maybe the bumper/valance.

Edit- just noticed the sig. I think you need a little more lift than that to fit them on a 1500. You need like 4" of lift just to fit 33s I heard.

cambo · March 5, 2007

If you want that size tire just go for a 315/70/R18 Nitto Terra Grappler tire; the reason for this is because it is a 34" tire so it will be easier to fit under a stock suspension. You will still need the new torsion keys and front long tube shocks. Buy shocks for a 4-inch lift. They seem to work better and ride alot better. Rear blocks? Why? Let the truck sit bulldoged.

Khaos05 · March 5, 2007

If you want that size tire just go for a 315/70/R18 Nitto Terra Grappler tire; the reason for this is because it is a 34" tire so it will be easier to fit under a stock suspension. You will still need the new torsion keys and front long tube shocks. Buy shocks for a 4-inch lift. They seem to work better and ride alot better. Rear blocks? Why? Let the truck sit bulldoged.

b/c i want it level

I'm getting a lot of "don't do it" from fullsizechevy forums because it will "put a lot of stress on my front end"...

diehrd · March 5, 2007

You are getting that response because KEY cranking is best applied to a 33" tires..You want the extra size to a 35" and to do that you will have to MAX keys out . . When you do that the CV joints in the front will be at angles which will cause a failure if and when you horse the truck in 4wd,,And at the least make them wear out fast because of angles.

Add to that the truck will ride so hard it will rattle your teeth. Even with longer shocks when you crank the T/B the bump stops have ZERO travel and are compressed to the point of uselessness . .

I do not want to be rude , BUT you are looking for someone to tell you what you want to do is perfectly fine and that is not the case.

scooter_092196 · March 5, 2007

Maxing the keys out will depend on what t-bars you have. I have my keys maxxed out and I believe my t-bars are either weak or the lightest rated bars Chevy puts in. My rear suspension is stock and the front still sits about 1.5" short of where the rear sits. That is measureing at the midpoint of the fenders to the fender height. Also, just checked my cv's and they are almost exactly flat.

cambo · March 5, 2007

You are getting that response because KEY cranking is best applied to a 33" tires..You want the extra size to a 35" and to do that you will have to MAX keys out . . When you do that the CV joints in the front will be at angles which will cause a failure if and when you horse the truck in 4wd,,And at the least make them wear out fast because of angles.

Add to that the truck will ride so hard it will rattle your teeth. Even with longer shocks when you crank the T/B the bump stops have ZERO travel and are compressed to the point of uselessness . .

I do not want to be rude , BUT you are looking for someone to tell you what you want to do is perfectly fine and that is not the case.

I totally agree. If you are wanting to max out the keys then you need to get cv axle extensions/spacers and possibly new torsion bars, because after a while when torsion bars are cranked they start to sag and will lower the truck.

diehrd · March 5, 2007

You are getting that response because KEY cranking is best applied to a 33" tires..You want the extra size to a 35" and to do that you will have to MAX keys out . . When you do that the CV joints in the front will be at angles which will cause a failure if and when you horse the truck in 4wd,,And at the least make them wear out fast because of angles.

Add to that the truck will ride so hard it will rattle your teeth. Even with longer shocks when you crank the T/B the bump stops have ZERO travel and are compressed to the point of uselessness . .

I do not want to be rude , BUT you are looking for someone to tell you what you want to do is perfectly fine and that is not the case.

I totally agree. If you are wanting to max out the keys then you need to get cv axle extensions/spacers and possibly new torsion bars, because after a while when torsion bars are cranked they start to sag and will lower the truck.

I never herd of of doing that and really question if it is even possible. The reason a CV shaft has spacers is for a lift kit,,basically ya drop the spindle 6 inches and the differential only 4 inches , the spacers make up that slack,,On a factory truck cranking t/bars alone would leave no room for a spacer.

Valsport · March 5, 2007

yeah thats correct, the spacer is needed to lengthen the cv, only applicable/compatible if an aftermarket spindle is used which widens the track approximately the same dimension as the spacers' cumulative thickness.

cambo · March 5, 2007

You are getting that response because KEY cranking is best applied to a 33" tires..You want the extra size to a 35" and to do that you will have to MAX keys out . . When you do that the CV joints in the front will be at angles which will cause a failure if and when you horse the truck in 4wd,,And at the least make them wear out fast because of angles.

Add to that the truck will ride so hard it will rattle your teeth. Even with longer shocks when you crank the T/B the bump stops have ZERO travel and are compressed to the point of uselessness . .

I do not want to be rude , BUT you are looking for someone to tell you what you want to do is perfectly fine and that is not the case.

I totally agree. If you are wanting to max out the keys then you need to get cv axle extensions/spacers and possibly new torsion bars, because after a while when torsion bars are cranked they start to sag and will lower the truck.

I never herd of of doing that and really question if it is even possible. The reason a CV shaft has spacers is for a lift kit,,basically ya drop the spindle 6 inches and the differential only 4 inches , the spacers make up that slack,,On a factory truck cranking t/bars alone would leave no room for a spacer.

Oh, I could be very wrong though. The guy who does all my truck ordering, does everybody's in my town. He said that if I wanted to max the bars out that I would have to put spacers there. But I could have misunderstood him.

Khaos05 · March 6, 2007

well...now i've figured out that my options are:

(1) full drop kit - have to get new driveshaft

(2) knuckle kit - have to get new rims

I don't want to buy a new drive shaft or new rims...so I guess that leaves me stuck with a body lift eh? Someone suggested getting the superlift 3.5" bracket kit but I thought that it was "non-autotrac only". Could be wrong though.