Jump to content

Lift Kit Brake Issue

naterasmussen

Recommended Posts

naterasmussen Enthusiast

naterasmussen

Posted
Posted

6" lift on a '01 Sierra 1500, with 35" tires. Stopping has become an issue, I've checked the rotors and found they are getting very hot. The last topic I started about this, someone said to try stainless lines. What I am wondering is if this alone will do anything. The big brake conversion kits are way too expensive. Maybe slotted rotors and carbon pads?

diehrd Enthusiast

diehrd

Posted
Posted
6" lift on a '01 Sierra 1500, with 35" tires. Stopping has become an issue, I've checked the rotors and found they are getting very hot. The last topic I started about this, someone said to try stainless lines. What I am wondering is if this alone will do anything. The big brake conversion kits are way too expensive. Maybe slotted rotors and carbon pads?

 

 

Try the Ceramic pads . and the stainless lines should help dissipate the heat in the fluid.

Rolandd Enthusiast

Rolandd

Posted
Posted

My understanding of why you want braided steel lines has nothing to do with heat dissapation. The rubber lines will swell when pressurized. If you have long lines and lots of them (three for the lift kit?) you will end up expending a lot of pedal pressure expanding the lines rather than stopping the wheels. The steel lines do not swell nearly as much, which means the energy that you use at the pedal is applied to the wheels, not to swelling the lines.

p2filz Enthusiast

p2filz

Posted
Posted

there is a height distribution rod in the back connected from the axle to the bed... when lifting a truck it thinks the bed or weight is missing/ off in the back... so it sends more brake force to the back look for a new distribution rod to compensate... this is the real problem aver all other issues... dont waste money on brake lines

naterasmussen Enthusiast

naterasmussen

Posted
  • Author
Posted
there is a height distribution rod in the back connected from the axle to the bed... when lifting a truck it thinks the bed or weight is missing/ off in the back... so it sends more brake force to the back look for a new distribution rod to compensate... this is the real problem aver all other issues... dont waste money on brake lines

 

 

Thanks for the advice, I wasn't really worried about the lines. I was more thinking rotors and pads. Any clue where I could find a better distribution rod?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...