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Brake Noise - Looks Like Work Ahead

TOTALRECALL

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TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
Posted

:thumbs: Looked around, but didn't come up with anything recent, 2002 Silverado 1500 Reg Cab 4X4 with 35,000 miles, mostly around town. Truck spent several years in NH, before I bought it - down here in DC. Now that the weather is nice, have the windows down and hear squeaking at low speed with the brakes, and some even driving with no brakes applied. Sounds like left front, well when I listen, it just sounds like left front. Have read that this design seems prone to sticking and corrison. Had the ABS recall done about a year ago. I hear overall the pads wear really well, less the corrison issue. Still stops straight and true.

 

So, think I mght try this myself - If I go GM, do the fronts come with everything and what is everything. For a few dollars more I would just as soon get new shims, clips or anything else that can make the new pads last - if I need them. I guess its possible they are just sticking and I need to lossen things up?

 

Other than GM, if I don't go the dealer, what a normal middle range replacement. Don't need $10.00 or 100 pads, but want a complete set. I don't tow or really work the truck so other than factory performance, I am good with that.

 

Thanks for any tips or advice, pointer to any articles I may have missed.

 

Mike

svensk Senior Enthusiast

svensk

Posted
Posted

Just go to NAPA (or other reputable autopart store)and get a new set of premium ceramic pads. If you want to save some more money call up your local machine shop and ask how much having your rotors turned would run.

 

My rear pads I just replaced ran about $46. The fronts will run more I would guess.

lahook Enthusiast

lahook

Posted
Posted

@ an autoparts store I spent

front pads = $43 ceramic

rear pads = $43 ceramic

front rotors = $33 each

rear rotors = $74 each

 

i found my front brakes were in good shape, it was the rear rotors and pads that needed replaced. this was @ 71000 miles

svensk Senior Enthusiast

svensk

Posted
Posted
My 99 tahoe makes a squeaking noise from the left front tire, but i'm not sure if its the pad or the bearing, but your problem sounds similar to mine

Does it happen on decelleration after taking your foot off the gas?

Christine-C.S.C Enthusiast

Christine-C.S.C

Posted
Posted

This might be a little far fetched, but when i had this with my truck ; it turned out to be the universal joints. There is another possability that the brake has wore down to the metal. This would cause it to make a scraping sound. The way brakes work, when you start off at slow speed the pad rubs the rotor to keep itself warm so you have dry brakes anytime you need them.

TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
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Yes, I do think it happens when I take my foot off the gas. One more item, I jacked each front wheel up this evening to spin the tires - one wheel at a time anyway. I have the manual 4X4 lever in 2WH HI - like normal for spring.

 

When I spun the right front some resistance - am guessing due to the 4WH driveline - but fairly smooth. When I spun the left front, where I think I hear the noise, lots of resistance, had to work to push the tire around.

 

What's normal for these trucks with the 4WH drive running gear? Sure think I heard some noise when I pushed the left front around.

 

Thought I might go after caliper bolts and grease first, why sand the old parts down, for a few bucks I think I might as well go with new bolts and be good?

 

Thanks for more thoughts

 

Mike

DANA New Member

DANA

Posted
Posted
Yes, I do think it happens when I take my foot off the gas. One more item, I jacked each front wheel up this evening to spin the tires - one wheel at a time anyway. I have the manual 4X4 lever in 2WH HI - like normal for spring.

 

When I spun the right front some resistance - am guessing due to the 4WH driveline - but fairly smooth. When I spun the left front, where I think I hear the noise, lots of resistance, had to work to push the tire around.

 

What's normal for these trucks with the 4WH drive running gear? Sure think I heard some noise when I pushed the left front around.

 

Thought I might go after caliper bolts and grease first, why sand the old parts down, for a few bucks I think I might as well go with new bolts and be good?

 

Thanks for more thoughts

 

Mike

 

 

Sounds like a seized caliper to me. You should have slight drag but not have to labor to spin the wheel.

naterasmussen Enthusiast

naterasmussen

Posted
Posted

I've got the same problem squeaking in the front driver side. It's not siezed, and I pulled off all tires to check that somethings not loose. Going to replace it once I get a good answer on how to get better braking on a lifted truck without going big brakes. There was an ABS recall? I had to disconnect my sensor because the ABS was kicking in for no reason

TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
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Posted

:chevy: HELP ME! - Ok not doing or feeling so good about working on brakes right now. Got the truck jacked up, left wheel off a few hours ago and looked at both sides of the rotor - oh no! Outside not so bad, inside falling apart, machine surface actually gone in some areas and pad very thin, but still there. Like I said it stops fine. Right side same way. The rotors on the inside look like the Titanic - metal really flaking off as you touch the rotor - remember someone had in NH for a year or two, but still this is really bad.

 

Ok- here's where I need the help, only cut myself up some trying to break loose the torx bolts, but done on the left side. Well, since I need new rotors, figure I need to move the caliper bracket out of the way. I can't even budge those bolts. I have a medium breaker bar attached to an 18MM socket and can't get anywhere.

 

Is this really a home job? I was partially standing on the breaker bar and couldn't get it to move - I have air, but only to about 125PSI to the impact gun - can't even break it free with the bar or the gun. I am going to try Sears tomorrow for big bar, but I don't know. Open to your ideas, I don't have to have the truck, extra vehicle, so I can drive around the car. If I run out of ideas, I will have to cobble everything on the left side back together and limp to a mechanic with big guy tools or a torch I guess.

 

I really do appreciate your thoughts and how much air pressure have you had to use to break loose bolts?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
:chevy: HELP ME! - Ok not doing or feeling so good about working on brakes right now. Got the truck jacked up, left wheel off a few hours ago and looked at both sides of the rotor - oh no! Outside not so bad, inside falling apart, machine surface actually gone in some areas and pad very thin, but still there. Like I said it stops fine. Right side same way. The rotors on the inside look like the Titanic - metal really flaking off as you touch the rotor - remember someone had in NH for a year or two, but still this is really bad.

 

Ok- here's where I need the help, only cut myself up some trying to break loose the torx bolts, but done on the left side. Well, since I need new rotors, figure I need to move the caliper bracket out of the way. I can't even budge those bolts. I have a medium breaker bar attached to an 18MM socket and can't get anywhere.

 

Is this really a home job? I was partially standing on the breaker bar and couldn't get it to move - I have air, but only to about 125PSI to the impact gun - can't even break it free with the bar or the gun. I am going to try Sears tomorrow for big bar, but I don't know. Open to your ideas, I don't have to have the truck, extra vehicle, so I can drive around the car. If I run out of ideas, I will have to cobble everything on the left side back together and limp to a mechanic with big guy tools or a torch I guess.

 

I really do appreciate your thoughts and how much air pressure have you had to use to break loose bolts?

 

Thanks

 

Mike

 

Heat the caliper bracket with a blow torch and then try to remove it. I usually use a large breaker bar but sometimes they stay stuck especially when loctited. I hit the one with a torch and the impact spun it right off.

 

Definitely a do it your self job IMO. Make sure you remove the caliper from the slides and clean and lube the caliper slides. A sticking caliper is the number one cause of wear on one side and not the other.

TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
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Posted

Ok, sounds good - already ordered a 2 foot breaker bar - only have 15 inch now. If that doesn't work and/or with a little heat, time for the pro's I guess. Breaker bar should be here in a couple of days - so perfect for something to try on the weekend.

 

When you do the work, do you replace the metal shims that are on the caliper, not the pad shims, but the top and bottom ones on the caliper itself, if so, Chevy dealer or just clean up the old ones in place? I don't see what could get damaged since they are fitted to the shape of the caliper?

 

I looked at the slide pins, not a ton of grease, but very clear, once they broke free, spun out by hand on the threads, body not pitted or anything, ie doesn't look like anything leaked on the pins.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

TOTALRECALL Enthusiast

TOTALRECALL

Posted
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:banghead: Well, good news and bad. The good news is the 2 foot breaker bar arrived and with only moderate force the caliper bracket bolts came loose in one try. Amazing what an extra foot of leverage gives you. The bad news is I have thrown in the towel.

 

After getting everything apart, trial fitting the new pads, after putting the new rotor on, the new pads are just as tight and hard to get on the caliper bracket as the old, it just doesn't make sense to me. Autozone was real good, they upgraded my pads with ones that had new clips, then took those back and I went to GM and bought their pads for double the money, same problem. The inside pad with the wear tab won't even clear the top of the bracket as you fit it in. Finally just took everything back to all the stores. Even went so far as to get two new GM caliper brackets and trial fit those, same problem, pads are very tight, ie you need a hammer to "tap" them on, no wonder the inside pads stick.

 

Anyway, one of the GM techs was at the parts counter on my second visit, he said he see's a few like this, recommneded that I do what they do, get a file and where the clips fit onto the bracket, start filing away until things fit, he said these are a pain and didn't have any other recommendations. Wow! I don't pretend to know everything, but brakes pads just can't be this hard - and to have them not stick or hang up.

 

While I would like to do this myself, I guess I will take the truck one of the folks that have done good work for me before, at least they may have the experience to know what is good enough for the pads not to wear unevenly in the future. What a bad design, caliper brackets and clips that aren't made to tight enough tolerances to actually work together - those used ford diesels are looking good again.

 

Thanks for everyone's help and what I have learned is don't waste time with the small breaker bar, if you get something, get 2 feet, it's worth the extra money when you need it - I will dwell on the positive for now.

 

Mike

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