Fuel Pump Replacement

Wolverine350R · May 14, 2007

So my truck has been giving hints for the last few months that the fuel pump might be giving out (stalls in traffic and hard starts). So I looked on e-bay the other day to see what these are going for, apparently you can ge the entire pump/sender setup for ~$150 or you can get just the pump for ~$50.

Has anyone ever done just the pump replacement? How hard/easy is it? How hard it doing the entire unit for that matter?

Also, my truck is a stepside, does anyone know how much the bed weights? I read the easiest way to replace these was to tilt the bed up or lift it off.

Thanks

Wolverine350R · May 14, 2007

Anyone?

Here is a link to just the pump:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-2000-2...VQQcmdZViewItem

Help on any part of this is appreciated. Thanks.

jaybyrd · May 14, 2007

Anyone?

Here is a link to just the pump:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-2000-2...VQQcmdZViewItem

Help on any part of this is appreciated. Thanks.

Not 100% sure on your year of truck, but if its inside the gas tank its a bit of a PITA. I replaced one on an older jeep I had and basically I had to drain the gas, drop the tank off after disconnecting a few things and then there was a round port hole with a seal and locking cap that has to be turned out to get at the pump. Not really easy, but if you have the time and patience not too bad a job to tackle. And a haynes manual or repair manual is always handy to look over beforehand. Hope that helps, but like I said not sure if its that straightforward on your truck or not....

ken1mod · May 14, 2007

to replace just the pump, you must bend some metal because the pump is designed to be non-replaceable. really not a big deal though. I have done it.

Ken

Wolverine350R · May 15, 2007

Thanks Ken, I think I may give that a try then. I also read somewhere that the fuel pressure regulator can cause problems-does anyone know that symptoms for that?

Thanks

ken1mod · May 15, 2007

fuel pressure regulator is easy to test with pressure gauge. also super easy to replace. I had to adjust mine to the correct pressure which brought my fuel trims in line. I posted my fpr adjustment technique a year ago.

Did you have the codes read from the computer. it is usually free at auto parts stores. always start with getting computer codes.

Ken

Wolverine350R · May 15, 2007

I haven't tried to get the codes. The SES light isn't on, would it still put out a code possibly without it on? I have been somewhat skeptical that it is the fuel pump because the truck has been this way for a few months and I would have thought that the pump would have died by now. I'll take it by the autozone on the way home and see if they will check it for codes.

thanks

ken1mod · May 15, 2007

you definitely can have codes without a mil light. I had "lean both banks" codes with no light and perfect running. 2000 5.3 motor.

Ken

blue blurr · May 16, 2007

Check/replace fuel pump relay first.

Blue Blurr

C & A s Dad · May 16, 2007

Wolverine, if you do decide to replace the pump, I would strongly urge you to buy the highest quality replacement that you can. ie Airtex, Bosch, Delphi etc. All of these have been or are still suppliers to GM. There are some no name pumps out there for less but I would suggest staying away from them. We (CARQUEST) have been 100% Airtex for several years but are in the process of offering a "blended" line. Our pumps will be supplied by all three of the vendors I mentioned above and will be OE specific. In other words, if your truck came with a Delphi unit, that is what will be in our box.

Just do your homework and buy a quality unit. You do not want to do this job twice or have it put you down on the road.

Wolverine350R · May 17, 2007

I went to the AutoZone last night and no codes at all. I guess that is good and bad. Does that eliminate any of the previously mentioned possabilities?

C&A, I will keep that in mind, but the college doesn't pay me enough to get what I want sometimes. From how often I hear these things go out, I'd really rather put a high quality one that is exterior to the tank.

What do I need to do to check the relay?

Thanks

Burb Guy · May 17, 2007

I went to the AutoZone last night and no codes at all. I guess that is good and bad. Does that eliminate any of the previously mentioned possabilities?

C&A, I will keep that in mind, but the college doesn't pay me enough to get what I want sometimes. From how often I hear these things go out, I'd really rather put a high quality one that is exterior to the tank.

What do I need to do to check the relay?

Thanks

I just replaced mine.

To tell you the truth... I rather change the complete module than just the kit. I know $62 sounds very attractive but if you are on the highway often, it is a peace of mind to know everything was changed and you have 'at least' 3 or 5 years (or 45 to 75K miles) fuel pump problems free. With the kit, you don't know when you have to bring the gas tank down again.

I paid $256 for the entire module, it is a trustable Airtex, all 'plastic' parts are new and I have one year warranty. The eBay kit will cost $62 and almost impossible to get it exchange if need it, you don't know its quality and on top of all that, the old plastic parts that you did not change may break soon making you look for a $256 part.

My 0.02

Wolverine350R · May 17, 2007

you have 'at least' 3 or 5 years (or 45 to 75K miles) fuel pump problems free.

Thats another thing that makes me think its not the pump. I believe the entire unit was replaced at a dealer when I bought the truck (bad sender), and I have only put about 15k (bought in Dec 05)on the truck since I bought it. Maybe I should try to call the dealership and see if they can tell me if it was the entire unit or just parts.

327BlackBird · May 17, 2007

Well as a mechanic for the past 7 years. The sender unit is very sensitive on most cars today. Taking out the whole unit then then fiddling around with it to get the pump out may severly shorten the lifespan of the sender by hard vibrations etc. I t does and can happen quite frequently. It would be better to have the peice of mind to just swap it all out at once. And a little trick you may want to use is once you have the new pump and sender in. once you lock it down with the ring tab, put some rtv silicone over the ring to keep out dirt and water which will cause premature rotting on the top of the tenk!.

Hope all goes well!

Wolverine350R · May 17, 2007

Well as a mechanic for the past 7 years. The sender unit is very sensitive on most cars today. Taking out the whole unit then then fiddling around with it to get the pump out may severly shorten the lifespan of the sender by hard vibrations etc. I t does and can happen quite frequently. It would be better to have the peice of mind to just swap it all out at once. And a little trick you may want to use is once you have the new pump and sender in. once you lock it down with the ring tab, put some rtv silicone over the ring to keep out dirt and water which will cause premature rotting on the top of the tenk!.

Hope all goes well!

The sender seems fine, I see what you mean about replacing only the pump and damaging the sender though. Good tip on the RTV, I'll remeber to do that.