Jump to content

Electrical Problem - Dead Battery Over And Over


mikey_b

Recommended Posts

Posted

6 weeks ago my battery dies one day while getting gas. The battery was 5 years old and I had the radio on while fuling up so I didn't think anything of it, I just got a jump. A week later it happened again so I got a new battery from Murreys and thought my problems would be solved.

 

Since getting the new battery I have had new problems.

 

Several times when I try to start the truck I can hear the starter trying harder than usual then the gauges flicker and then the radio clock resets to 12:00. But it would still start. The problem is frequent after a short run - like 5 minutes to pull the truck into the garage.

 

I have had to get a jump start on the new battery a few times because it wont turn over at all.

 

Do I have a short somewhere causing a drain? On the other hand, I have let the truck sit for a few days while out of town and it started without any problems.

 

Anyone have any ideas?

Posted

Update:

 

Yesterday I tried to start and got absolutely nothing. I got a jump and it started fine but my volt meter on the dash was bouncing all over the place and as soon as I shut off the engine all the lights died.

 

I figured either I had a completely dead battery (even though it is only 1 month old) or I had a bad connection somewhere.

 

Using a multimeter I decided the battery was fine but the connection at the battery had a problem.

 

The conenctor was all corroded inside the rubber boot that GM put on there to keep the corrosion out. Ironic that the boot not only didn't stop the corrosion but it also hid it from me so i had to take the thing apart to figure out what the problem was.

 

So anyway, if anyone else has problems like this, check the cables first.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 373 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...