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Rear Wheel Molded Splash Gaurds


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Posted

Who manufacturers NBS rear wheel molded splash gaurds that do not require drilling the fenders? Just ordered some Husky's and they require drilling.....considering returning them. Please list manufacturer and part number if you have found drilless rear wheel molded splash gaurds that you are happy with.

 

Thanks,

DeerePower

Posted

Welcome.

 

I have the Husky contoured on my GMT900. Fit nicely.

 

If you don't like those, go visit Mr. Goodwrench.

Posted
Welcome.

 

I have the Husky contoured on my GMT900. Fit nicely.

 

If you don't like those, go visit Mr. Goodwrench.

 

Did your husky gaurds require drilling? If so, do you have the part number handy

Posted

Automotive Accessories Connection 888-425-2885

 

Husky Liners conoured 2007-2008 new body style. Part numbers 56801 and 57801 @ $24.95 a pair.

 

 

I had the dealer install them before I picked up new truck. Don't know if they drilled or not. But these do have the tape that all mentioned in previous posts. Some other brands will rub/chip paint without the tape. At least that is what others have stated. I went with the Husky and the tape that comes in box. Look great.

Posted
Automotive Accessories Connection 888-425-2885

 

Husky Liners conoured 2007-2008 new body style. Part numbers 56801 and 57801 @ $24.95 a pair.

 

 

I had the dealer install them before I picked up new truck. Don't know if they drilled or not. But these do have the tape that all mentioned in previous posts. Some other brands will rub/chip paint without the tape. At least that is what others have stated. I went with the Husky and the tape that comes in box. Look great.

 

 

These are the same part numbers I have ordered and require drilling. I would prefer to not drill if possible. Has anyone else found drilless rear molded splash gaurds?

Posted

welcome to the forum, most splash guards either utilize double sided tape or use the existing holes in the arch of the fender well, I have never seen a guard having to be drilled in person, but I have heard of them.....

Posted
welcome to the forum, most splash guards either utilize double sided tape or use the existing holes in the arch of the fender well, I have never seen a guard having to be drilled in person, but I have heard of them.....

 

 

The NBS trucks do not have any exsisting holes in the arch of the rear fender well, therefore the fenders require drilling to match up with the holes on the splash gaurds. I thought I remembered hearing that someone manufactured splash gaurds that used tabs or clips and did not require any modification to the rear fenders.

Posted
welcome to the forum, most splash guards either utilize double sided tape or use the existing holes in the arch of the fender well, I have never seen a guard having to be drilled in person, but I have heard of them.....

 

 

The NBS trucks do not have any exsisting holes in the arch of the rear fender well, therefore the fenders require drilling to match up with the holes on the splash gaurds. I thought I remembered hearing that someone manufactured splash gaurds that used tabs or clips and did not require any modification to the rear fenders.

 

 

 

I can understand the desire to keep a new vehicle pristeen as long as possible, I'm still waiting for my first parking lot door ding, but GM screws things to these trucks all over the place. You could dip your screws in RTV, tar or some corrosion inhibitor if you are worried about rust getting a foot hold.

Posted

Funny how one interprets a post. I thought he didn't have access to a drill. I never thought of the rust part.

 

Rust. I have mud flaps on my 1990 Chevrolet 1500 and they have been on since new. I replace the mud flaps ever couple of years as they get all dirty/fading. I buy same brand of mud guards and use same holes each time. I use the old mud flads as a template. There is no rust at any of the holes on my 1990 Chevrolet 1500 after all these years.

Posted

The GM molded flaps for the 2007+ trucks install in the front without drilling but need to be drilled in the rear. GM supplies wax-coated screws to help fight corrosion. I wouldn't lose any sleep over a few holes.

Posted

I just installed the husky's. You can do the fronts with the tire on, for the rears you are going to need to remove the tire/wheel to get in with a drill, unless you have a 90° setup. If you are rolling with the factory 20s bulk up as the wheel/tire combo weighs 82lbs. :rolleyes: Don't forget the torque for the lugs is 140ft-lbs. Also husky sends the 3M clear material precut, easy install. I let the 3M stuff dry over night.

 

Here are the 4 spots where it gets drilled on the rear.

 

img3889ht9.jpg

 

img3891fo6.jpg

 

On the front you only have to drill one hole.

 

img3912za0.jpg

 

img3904bp2.jpg

Posted
I just installed the husky's. You can do the fronts with the tire on, for the rears you are going to need to remove the tire/wheel to get in with a drill, unless you have a 90° setup. If you are rolling with the factory 20s bulk up as the wheel/tire combo weighs 82lbs. :rolleyes: Don't forget the torque for the lugs is 140ft-lbs. Also husky sends the 3M clear material precut, easy install. I let the 3M stuff dry over night.

 

Here are the 4 spots where it gets drilled on the rear.

 

img3889ht9.jpg

 

Nice install Bryan. I was considering the GM flaps, but the Husky's look good enough. Do those u-clip type nuts come with the kit?

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