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How Do I Take Out The Drive Shaft?

grosss

By grosss
in Ask A GM Technician

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grosss Enthusiast

grosss

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So I had my truck on a hoist a while ago and turns out all of my U joints are shot (which explains the vibrations on the highway) and I'm thinking of changing them this week when I head home.

 

Unfortunately I won't have the truck on a hoist and have to do it on the floor, but nevertheless, has anyone had to do this before? I know swapping out the U joints is a matter of a vice and a hammer, but how hard is it to remove the driveshaft from the truck so I can take it inside and work on it?

grosss Enthusiast

grosss

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I had my truck on a hoist a while ago and turns out all of my U joints are shot (which explains the vibrations on the highway) and I'm thinking of changing them this week when I head home.

 

Unfortunately I won't have the truck on a hoist and have to do it on the floor, but nevertheless, has anyone had to do this before? I know swapping out the U joints is a matter of a vice and a hammer, but how hard is it to remove the driveshaft from the truck so I can take it inside and work on it?

grosss Enthusiast

grosss

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ultra easy. just look at it, will be self explanitory :)

 

Yea that's what I was figuring.. 2 bolts at the diff, drop and pull, right? Just wanted to make sure there was no other trick before I get myself into trouble :-)

carneyman Senior Enthusiast

carneyman

Posted
Posted
ultra easy. just look at it, will be self explanitory :)

 

Yea that's what I was figuring.. 2 bolts at the diff, drop and pull, right? Just wanted to make sure there was no other trick before I get myself into trouble :-)

 

 

The hardest part is putting the new joints back on...cylinder bearings are no fun.

Sierra54 Enthusiast

Sierra54

Posted
Posted

Thankfully I had help when mine needed replaced. You may want to go out and buy a repair manual. I have used my Chilton manual more times than I can remember. I seem to remember that the shaft must be reinstalled the same way it came out so mark its orientation when you pull it and the u-joints had to be heated with a torch to melt the nylon retainers then use a vice and a socket to press them out. I think the bearings mentioned are the ones inside the u-joint. They can get out of alignment and could be a mess to re-align.

carneyman Senior Enthusiast

carneyman

Posted
Posted
Cylinder bearings? See, this is why I posted :-D What's a cylinder bearing?

 

Not sure of the technical name, but thats what I call the bearings with cylinders instead of round balls. They tend to fall out of the caps that you hammer into the u-joint if your not careful.

 

u-joint4-2.jpg

 

Those things on the inside.

SKYrado03 Enthusiast

SKYrado03

Posted
Posted

You might also want to have cardboard, and rags where that yoke comes out the back of the trans....

You can never tell what'll drip out...and the CB will protect the Yoke from dings, an ol' rug or blanket 'll work to...

 

Since you have it apart, Ya might want to think 'bout changin' the seal where it slides in.

 

Yeah Eric, love those roller bearings..............steve

 

:)

grosss Enthusiast

grosss

Posted
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How hard is it to change that seal/ what part do I have to buy (what do I ask for at the parts store). I'm probably going to be changing the tranny in a few months anyways but if it's an easy job I'll do it to buy a little more life out of the tranny

 

Thanks a lot for the tips so far guys!

grosss Enthusiast

grosss

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Yea I have a nice clunk sometimes along with the vibrations :-D I'll take pictures while I'm doing it and hopefully make a nice DIY (unless all hell breaks loose)

SKYrado03 Enthusiast

SKYrado03

Posted
Posted
How hard is it to change that seal/ what part do I have to buy (what do I ask for at the parts store).
You should be able to see the seal at the end of the tail shaft. It'll have an inward facing rubber cone. There are pullers made to yank 'em out, but if you take a stout screwdriver you can lever the seal out. Stick the blade under one side of the rim and use the other side of the tailshaft as the fulcrum. Use care, you don't want to booger up the end of the tailshaft A thin stick or another tool will do.

Clean the seat.

 

Align the new seal as plumb as possible, and then use a matching socket to tap the new seal in place. On a good day 10-15 minutes tops.

Once your parts guy knows what you're working on, tell him you also need the driveshaft seal for that tranny.

 

I'm probably going to be changing the tranny in a few months anyways but if it's an easy job I'll do it to buy a little more life out of the tranny
That's up to you…Look at the yoke, if the grime side looks pretty clean, i.e., no fresh tranny slop… :puke:

I'd probably leave it alone.

 

Thanks a lot for the tips so far guys!

Your welcome!

:)

bassadict69 Enthusiast

bassadict69

Posted
Posted
Yea I have a nice clunk sometimes along with the vibrations :-D I'll take pictures while I'm doing it and hopefully make a nice DIY (unless all hell breaks loose)

 

Cool...I have worked on my own vehicles before but never anything with the driveline & would not even know where to begin just to drop the driveshaft! :puke:

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