Jump to content

Tail Light Bulbs

the hammer

Recommended Posts

the hammer Enthusiast

the hammer

Posted
Posted

I have a new pair of clear OEM tail lights. SHould I buy the red colored glass 3157's or LED replacemets for my lights? I don't want electrical issues if I switch to LED', so anyone with advice please help.

 

Josh

Draenor Senior Enthusiast

Draenor

Posted
Posted

Don't know the vehicle laws in FL., but here in LA, you must have red rear facing lights.

As for the incandescent vs LED, it will be you preference. If you choose LED you will need a new relay or place a resistor in line to adapt to the new current draw.

BigJayDogg3 Senior Enthusiast

BigJayDogg3

Posted
Posted
Don't know the vehicle laws in FL., but here in LA, you must have red rear facing lights.

As for the incandescent vs LED, it will be you preference. If you choose LED you will need a new relay or place a resistor in line to adapt to the new current draw.

 

 

Well if I understood it right when it was told to me, even in LA, all you need is for the end result to be red, whether that be the bulb being white and the glass red, or the light red and the glass clear. I could be wrong, because the person that told me that is a known :D spewer, and it has been a few years since I was told this.

 

As for the look of the lights, I say go with some kind of colored glass. LEDs just look too ricer for me.

the hammer Enthusiast

the hammer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was thinking along those lines also. The lights I bought for $10 are the older OEM tail light style from the 99-03 trucks. You won't be able to see any LED look if I get the LED's, I just didn't know if they would actually be any brighter than the colored glass or even the chromeed-over red glass bulbs. I just want my lights to be as bright and as red as factory or better.

 

Also, the good news is the lights I purchased have a red reflector section at the bottom, so hopefully I won't get hassled about the rest of it being clear.

Draenor Senior Enthusiast

Draenor

Posted
Posted
Don't know the vehicle laws in FL., but here in LA, you must have red rear facing lights.

As for the incandescent vs LED, it will be you preference. If you choose LED you will need a new relay or place a resistor in line to adapt to the new current draw.

 

 

Well if I understood it right when it was told to me, even in LA, all you need is for the end result to be red, whether that be the bulb being white and the glass red, or the light red and the glass clear. I could be wrong, because the person that told me that is a known :D spewer, and it has been a few years since I was told this.

 

As for the look of the lights, I say go with some kind of colored glass. LEDs just look too ricer for me.

 

 

RS 32:304

Tail lamps

A. Every motor vehicle, trailer, semi-trailer and pole trailer and any other vehicle which is being drawn at the end of a train of vehicles, shall be equipped with at least one tail lamp mounted on the rear, which, when lighted as required in R.S. 32:301, shall emit a red light plainly visible from a distance of one thousand feet to the rear, provided that in the case of a train of vehicles only the tail lamps on the rearmost vehicle need actually be seen from the distance specified. Every vehicle or trailer listed in this Subsection, other than a motorcycle or motor driven cycle registered in this state and manufactured or assembled after December 31, 1962, shall be equipped with at least two tail lamps mounted on the rear, on the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable, which, when lighted as herein required, shall comply with the provisions of this Section.

the hammer Enthusiast

the hammer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can we install a new flasher unit to control the new load produced by led light bulbs? I don't know if I could install a correctly designed flasher for turn signal LEDs or if I have to install the load resistors on each light I install.

 

If I can just install a turn signal flasher unit that will probably be easier and cheaper, so which flasher does my truck use and where is it? Iooked for it last night but couldn't find it easily on the interior fuse box.

Bob_fromLA Enthusiast

Bob_fromLA

Posted
Posted

I tried some of the after market LED bulbs and was not happy with the result. Unfortunately, the majority of the lens / reflector designs are optimized for the placement of a standard bulb with filament and the sturture of the LED bulbs prevents some light traveling back toward the bulb base that is normally reflceted. I found that the LED bulbs installed in my 2001 Sierra (stock rear lens assemblies) did not generate a very bright light in either running or brake state and in fact it was difficult to distinguish between the two states. I tried both red and white LED bulbs, noting that I did this several years ago. I ended up back to standard bulbs.

  • 1 month later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 439 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...