Hvac Question

Nappers · August 16, 2008

Gang,

I own a 2000 GMC Yukon SLE.

One day I got in and heard a clicking noise, I had the vent on with no A/C. I put the vent on recirculation and the clicking stopped. I put it back on the fresh air and it clicked again so I turned the fan off, the clicking stopped.

I got in the car later and no clicking.

Today, the A/C just didn't seem to be cooling as good as I thought (fan on 3, rear air is fine) so, I put it on recirculation and the clicking started again. fresh air with A/C on the clicking stopped. Recirculation clicking started again. Sounds like a relay on the right side of the dash area (maybe a relay, sounded like it though).

I read some articles on pulling the HVAC fuse as the door may be jammed, could this be the problem? the only modification I did was to run a wire from the left side of dash (driver) to my XM which is mounted on the vent. The A/C blows cold and like I mentioned, the rear air is fine. The wire does not interfere with any cables and I've had it for almost 2 years with no prior problems. The car has almost 130,000 miles on the clock.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Aaron

minibike132 · August 16, 2008

It's always worth a shot, doesn't cost anything to try. Remove the HVAC1 fuse in the left fuse panel and the Radio fuse in the under hood fuse panel. Let everything power down for quite a while. Reinstall fuses and turn the key on, DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING for 1 minute. Shut the key off, open and close the door and wait another minute or so. Then see what happens. It sounds more like you need an actuator, the clicking sounds like stripped gears but I'm not there to hear it, it's possible to hear a noise if they over run and can be reset. Good luck.

Nappers · August 16, 2008

I'll give it a shot.

It does sound like a stripped gear. just a steady click click click when recirculation is chosen.

I've had awesome luck with the old girl, 130,000 miles and only thing to go bad was a check valve on 2nd air injection and a kid induced broken rear passenger window regulator, $25 bucks + shipping on ebay!

Thanks for the quick reply.

Nappers · August 18, 2008

I tried that and it did not work

Replacing the actuator an easy task? I am pretty handy with working on cars (I do all my own maint) and I have done extensive work on my older chevy (64) so, I can disassemble stuff and put it back together with minimal parts left over.

Thanks

Aaron

minibike132 · August 18, 2008

I can't get too detailed because it's been awhile since I have done one but I remember the dash pad has to come off and I think it's right down there once that is off. When you put it on remember to let it calibrate before touching anything.

Nappers · August 19, 2008

Okay, once I figure out how to remove the dash I'll figure it out hopefully.

Thanks for the replies.

If anyone has any tips to remove the dash, please pipe up.

Thanks

Aaron

minibike132 · August 20, 2008

I didn't want to type all this cause I know I have already done it here before, but I can't find it so I'll do it again. Engage emergency brake, turn key on, shift into lo, pull instrument cluster/radio bezel off. Remove the trim piece at both side panels (where the fuse box is on the driver side same on opposite side), remove both of the passenger hvac vents on both sides of the handle in the dash. Remove the A pillar moldings (that is the trim on either side of the windshield going from roof to dash) they just pull off but they might be tight. Inside the vents that you just removed there are release tabs on the sides of the pull handle, push in the tabs and pull off the handle. Remove the panel between the windshield and the dash pad (be careful with that ambient light sensor in the middle pull the panel up slightly and remove any connectors before yanking it out) Then all that is left are the screws, I don't remember how many off hand. There should be 2 on the sides under those covers (the fuse box cover and the same one on the right side), then there is like 4 or 5 more around the part where the instrument cluster bezel was and a few more on the passenger side inside the vent holes I think. Then pull it all out Don't worry it's not heavy at all it's a one person job not like the old dashes. It looks like alot but it's really not that bad, I have the whole deal down to about five minutes, if it takes much longer than a half hour to get it off there I'd be surprised.

Good luck to ya.

Nappers · August 20, 2008

Thanks a lot for the explanation, I did look also so no one has to repeat themselves. I'll save it as a favorite and tear into it next week, (working mass overtime this week)

Thank you and to you other Techs that put your time and energy helping us poor folks out to keep our GM Trucks running smooth.

I'll keep you posted and try to take pictures maybe

Aaron

Nappers · October 2, 2009

I got the dash off and figured out the door is stripped, nothing in the way anyways from what I can see. I got the two screws out below the screen for the door but can't seem to get the door out, I can only move the duct but can't see enough to remove it. I removed the metal that is above it. Is there a trick to removing the door without removing the duct work? There's a lot, I removed the ducts in the dash and what not and can get the duct to go over the door but the blend door is recessed quite a bit in the dash. There are some screws holding the motor on the left side but not sure I I should remove those.....

Anyways, until I figure it out, I got the door to outside air and unplugged the motor and now have decent air moving in the car. And don't have the click click.

I would like to fix it though

Thanks for any help. It took me a while as you can see to get this far. Dash took me bout 45 minutes to get out, I forgot about the little buttons to get the grab handle out.