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Jerkie Trany


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Posted

Hey guys, i drove my 1997 tahoe about 350 miles, and to the end of the the trip, When the car would roll from a start when shifting into first to second it would jerk , kinda like dropin the clutch on a stick. second to third  u could feel it very little but its still there. Is my tranie going???. I check fluid level and it looks fine, i had it flushed about 5000 miles ago. What is the model number of the tranie i have it, Its Tahoe sport 2 door 97 auto 4x4 with tow package? and how much would i be looking at if i did have to get the tranny replaced

Guest Friz
Posted

Have you taken a good look at the driveshaft, u-joints, and rear end? That slack could be somewhere after the tranny.

It is a 4L60E tranny. I've heard of a few problems, but nothing really out of the ordinary with them. Replacement though, is not cheap. To have someone rebuild or replace it and do all the labor is around the $1000.00 mark from what I've heard on the boards.

Posted

From what i read in my surfing, It needs the value body replaced. These cost about 450 bucks and dealers charge like 900 to 1000 to put them in, Now from my understand this is what you mod for a shift kit, So how hard is it to replace? is this something i could do? I never worked with a auto tranie before, i know how to change a clutch n stuff like that. What is involved in this install?

Posted

Jim,  I'm not sure that it is terribly difficult but I have never attempted to do it myself.  I know people that have done it themselves with no problems, so I guess alot depends on the instructions that come with the kit, and the support of your knowledgable friends.

 

The biggest problem that I can see is that you would be better off if you could get your truck on a lift to do this work.  Laying on your back under the truck is not the easiest way to service your tranny...

Posted

lets hope you dont need a tranny rebuild, i just got my 4l60E rebuilt in my 2wd sonoma, and it cost 2,000 bucks, and with a 4wd, it would cost more. lucky for me it was under warrenty, so it didnt cost me a penny!!

  • 3 months later...
Posted

??? My 02 silverado does the same thing since I drove it (new) off the lot doesn't matter whether its cold or hot?  If anyone else around here has had that problem, please let me know what it took to fix it, as the Dealer just replaced my entire driveshaft, and I'm rapidly reaching the 36,000 mile mark.

 

Any info would be of useful. :urgent:

Posted

Sounds very familiar to my problem - and I have yet to figure it out or take it to a dealer.

 

I've had a 1997 GMC Sierra K1500 (Z71, 350, automatic, 87,000 miles) for two years now. After driving highway speeds (60 - 70 mph) and exiting, truck shifts *very* hard (bangs) from 1st to 2nd. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd is not as hard, but noticeable. Turning the key off does not help. Let the truck sit for 10 minutes or more, and the problem goes away. Driving on surface streets does not cause this situation to occur.

 

In 5/2002, I changed all the fluids: trans (didn't drain the converter, though) and filter, transfer case and rear end. I used recommended trans fluid in the trans and transfer case; 80W-90 in the rearend. This problem came up about two months later.

 

It seems like a heat issue, and the temperature here has been in the 70's - 80's all summer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Posted

Sounds like it's not releasing line pressure once you bring the vehicle down from speed for extended intervals.  When you are cruising at highway speed for long periods, the trans runs at a constant pressure which can build up.  Once you slow down, it may not be releasing this pressure as quickly as it should.  There is a controller for this, but I haven't worked on a 4L60E in eons (plus their are so many variations of them), so memory slides on me right now.

 

As to putting a shift kit on, it isn't hard, but why?  If you already have increased line pressure (which is what it sounds like), why put a shift kit on which it's purpose in life is also to increase line pressure?  It'll make shifts feel all that more hard.  Also, generally if you are putting in a shift kit, I'd recommend adding a trans cooler if your truck already doesn't have one which will make this mod a bit more difficult.

Posted

The Service Engine Soon light came on, so I decided to take it to a dealer for diagnostics. Result - Code 1870 Transmission Component Slippage. The tech said I need a new valve body ($1000 installed - 1 yr warr. on valve body only) or a new trans ($2500 installed - 3 yr warr. on entire trans).

 

The benefit of going with a new trans? With the banging that's been going on, there's been additional wear on the trans and something else could go bad if they only replace the valve body.

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