Gm900 Leveling

batmat1028 · October 4, 2008

Hey everyone, I have been a site member for some time, but have had very few posts. I have been trying to search and find an answer to a leveling question, but have been buried by information. I have a 2007 GM900 truck. Is there a difference in the quality or final results of the leveling kits that lift the bottom of the strut vs. those which add the spacer at the top of the tower. I have seen kits both ways and some that do both? Thanks for any input

Biggie · October 4, 2008

both are achieving lift by the same means, just one adds height under, and one adds it above, but as far as quality or results go, thats all relative to what brand you get and the quality of their kit. i've got a readylift spacer that sits on top of my strut, but already i'm going to buy a truxx 2.5/1.25'' kit because the readylift doesn't lift enough

tobias · October 4, 2008

The only difference in results is that the Rough Country leaves more money in your wallet.

Lama · October 4, 2008

The only difference in results is that the Rough Country leaves more money in your wallet.

I installed the Top Guns Customz 2.5" kit in front. It uses a very small spacer on the top of the strut so you don't have to cut the studs, and then adds a spacer at the bottom of the strut on the LCA. It is most likely the max you can go without laying the UCA on the droop stops. Fender height front (with 33's) is 41".

It lifted the front so much I had to remove the rear 1.5" axle spacer block and install a 3" Tuff Country block and u-bolt kit to re-level the truck. It is now level all the way around, and stands pretty darn tall for just a leveled truck.

Both kits were excellent quality. It was $79 for the front, and $80 for the rear, and I can now run 33" tires no problem.

VMax2007 · October 4, 2008

Truxxx.............FTW!!!

Rough Country is cheap, and you get what you pay for. <----just to piss daddy off

batmat1028 · October 4, 2008

Thanks for all the input. I just looked at the top gunz custom kit that Lama mentioned. It looks like the spacer on the bottom of the strut is two pieces of plate that are welded together, as opposed to a single piece of CNC machined metal. do you think there is any potential strength issue?

2000DV4.8 · October 4, 2008

I'd go with a machined spacer. What's the Rough Country kit cost, $60? If that even IS more expensive than the welded kit, I'd say it's worth it just to be sure that it's not going to snap.

tobias · October 4, 2008

I'm with Dan on this one. Welds are more likely to rust through over time and snap or give way where the machined blocks will take a beating for as long as you own your truck and never fail. Go with the RC kit.

Lama · October 5, 2008

I'm with Dan on this one. Welds are more likely to rust through over time and snap or give way where the machined blocks will take a beating for as long as you own your truck and never fail. Go with the RC kit.

Actually, all the welded section does is maintain a shape to help you install it. The lower strut just sits on two pads, which are solid steel. Mechanically, a complete slug of steel serves no purpose in this application. Up top, yes, below, no.

tobias · October 5, 2008

I'm with Dan on this one. Welds are more likely to rust through over time and snap or give way where the machined blocks will take a beating for as long as you own your truck and never fail. Go with the RC kit.

Actually, all the welded section does is maintain a shape to help you install it. The lower strut just sits on two pads, which are solid steel. Mechanically, a complete slug of steel serves no purpose in this application. Up top, yes, below, no.

What?

If you are insinuating that the force being perpendicular to the plates means the welds don't really do anything I'd disagree. Are there sleeves between the bolt holes or is it just a small piece of flat steel in all 3 spots?

Oh, and as for a slug being necessary, no one is saying it is, we're just saying you completely remove any fear of the welds cracking or anything else when you have a solid piece of steel there.

Lama · October 5, 2008

I'm with Dan on this one. Welds are more likely to rust through over time and snap or give way where the machined blocks will take a beating for as long as you own your truck and never fail. Go with the RC kit.

Actually, all the welded section does is maintain a shape to help you install it. The lower strut just sits on two pads, which are solid steel. Mechanically, a complete slug of steel serves no purpose in this application. Up top, yes, below, no.

What?

If you are insinuating that the force being perpendicular to the plates means the welds don't really do anything I'd disagree. Are there sleeves between the bolt holes or is it just a small piece of flat steel in all 3 spots?

Oh, and as for a slug being necessary, no one is saying it is, we're just saying you completely remove any fear of the welds cracking or anything else when you have a solid piece of steel there.

There are large milled sleeves in between each plate, that support the strut and guide and center the bolt. The two strut ears sit directly on the sleeves, the plates serve to tie-in both sleeves. I agree a milled plate can be viewed as superior in strength.

batmat1028 · October 5, 2008

Thanks again guys. My bad about the top gunz kit. I understand what Lama is saying, I couldn't see the sleeves in the pictures that I looked at. I have to agree with daddy, I will probably go with the solid machined piece. the 10-15 dollar price difference is worth it for my piece of mind.

tobias · October 5, 2008

They need to do a better job showing that sleeve because it is NOT obvious from their pics and it is obviously causing confusion. The sleeves would make me feel better about it but I'd still go slug!

andymiller · November 25, 2008

Lama, were did you order your 3" blocks from?

AZ_DZRTRNR · November 27, 2008

Hello all, I am seriously looking into a leveling kit and have been reading over a lot of the info in the suspension section of the forum.

Daddy, you said you have the Rough Country kit correct? If so, can you send me some larger pictures of your truck? I want to see more of what it looks like. Did you use all the spacers to get 2" of lift? How did you measure the truck to tell how much lift you got?