Jump to content

2000 Silverado 4x4 Leveling Lift Kit?

Gunner82

Recommended Posts

Gunner82 Enthusiast

Gunner82

Posted
Posted

Ok new here. Recently inherited a 2000 silverado 4x4 extended cab 4.8, This will be my first 4x4. My question here is this I just had the local tire shop get me a set of Hercules TrAIL DIGGER mt in 285/75/16 to replace the 245 on the truck now. Not yet installed. With this I would like to get the thing up a little and make sure these look good under this thing. Im thinking of the rough country leveling kit, is this a good kit and should I do the Front keys the back blocks and the shocks or just keys and blocks? Are there a lot of issues after putting a kit like this on? Does the 2" have a good look with 285s or should I do a body lift? This will be my hunting truck and it won't see much highway at all. I don't want to go extreme because of the cost but would like some input on what makes these look and perform good with 285s. Thanks for any sugestions.

2000DV4.8 Senior Enthusiast

2000DV4.8

Posted
Posted

If you just want to raise up the front of the truck a little, just crank the stock torsion keys. You should be able to get at least 1.5" of height out of the stock keys, which is the highest you can go safely anyway (a leveling kit does the same thing to the suspension as cranking the stock keys by the way). If you go over about 1.5", you'll put extra stress on your tie rod ends (inner and outer), ball joints, pitman arm, and idler arm, and risk having those parts fail prematurely. Much further than 1.5" will also make the truck ride like complete ass.

 

Do a search on here for 'torsion bars' 'torsion crank' or something similar, and you should find a lot of good reading. :dunno:

BIGCHEVY2 Enthusiast

BIGCHEVY2

Posted
Posted
Ok new here. Recently inherited a 2000 silverado 4x4 extended cab 4.8, This will be my first 4x4. My question here is this I just had the local tire shop get me a set of Hercules TrAIL DIGGER mt in 285/75/16 to replace the 245 on the truck now. Not yet installed. With this I would like to get the thing up a little and make sure these look good under this thing. Im thinking of the rough country leveling kit, is this a good kit and should I do the Front keys the back blocks and the shocks or just keys and blocks? Are there a lot of issues after putting a kit like this on? Does the 2" have a good look with 285s or should I do a body lift? This will be my hunting truck and it won't see much highway at all. I don't want to go extreme because of the cost but would like some input on what makes these look and perform good with 285s. Thanks for any sugestions.

 

You can crank the factory bars some. However, not every 1/2 ton truck will achieve much lift with factory keys. Some of the 99-06 model trucks have less adjustment on one side than the other which will hinder you from getting much lift. The after market keys are the way to go. Front shocks are a must when putting on keys, if you dont, the factory shock like to top out and give you a choppy ride. Lots of companies build them for all types of prices. They are just about all the same when it comes to quality and height. I have been using Rough Country stuff for years, so I recommend them. They have them for cheap, several of my buddies are running their leveling kit with shocks and rear blocks. If you want to spend a bit more, check with Truxxx, Ready Lift, Suspension Maxx. If you want to save some do and get great quality product, do what I do.

Gunner82 Enthusiast

Gunner82

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got the shoes mounted and they look great but the front REALLY needs brought up 2 inches, I took a look at the torsion adjustment bolts and the passenger side has like a mile of thread left and the drivers like inch or so. I don't know if I could get an 1.5" out of it with the little bit of adjusment on that side.

2000DV4.8 Senior Enthusiast

2000DV4.8

Posted
Posted
Got the shoes mounted and they look great but the front REALLY needs brought up 2 inches, I took a look at the torsion adjustment bolts and the passenger side has like a mile of thread left and the drivers like inch or so. I don't know if I could get an 1.5" out of it with the little bit of adjusment on that side.

 

Each revolution of the bolt, nets about 1/4" of "lift". To get 1.5", I needed to go up I think 7 full revolutions, so just count the threads, and see if it'll be close. And it can't hurt to try to crank the stock keys, I'm betting you'll be able to get the 1.5" easily (the distance on the bolt isn't a direct correlation to the amount of lift gained).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Ac not keeping up

      By KARNUT · Posted

      My house is set at 75. My car at 70. When I have guests the house is at 70. 
    • Silverado4x4
      Ac not keeping up

      By Silverado4x4 · Posted

      OK you say you could hang meat but what was the actual temp? One of the AC systems job is to remove humidity that we feel on our body your new system removed alot of humidity as that is were the water comes from on the ac coils and that made it feel colder. 80 degrees with high humidity will feel hot vs 80 degrees with low humidity will feel alot cooler.
    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • Atlas
      AC diagnostic on a neo-classic Camaro

      By Atlas · Posted

      tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Byrds8
      Ac not keeping up

      By Byrds8 · Posted

      Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...