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By Grumpy Bear · Posted
5 miles away at Marathon regular E-10 87 16 $4.87 😱 25 miles away at Shell V Power Nitro+ 93 for $4.89. In general not hard to find regular for $3.99. Seems everyone isn't getting the same memo. 😏 -
I can do that. When I pull the check valve off, I will plug the line going to the intake. -
I hear you, I'm in upstate NY. This my second set of Westin's. Got 5 years out of the first, I have 7 years on the second, but they're shot. Westin's not making them anymore. Looks like DeeZee still has them available for my 2014, but not for the 2026. I have a set coming from Ionics for the 2014. Same 3 year warranty as the DeeZees. Ionic also appear have them available for the 2026 ... -
maybe just plug the vacuum line to the booster, to rule out that path as being the cause of the rpm change? -
94 Silverado 350 When I apply the brakes, the rpms drop. In park or neutral the drop is approx 150 rpms and in reverse or drive approx 250 rpms. When I release the brake, the rpms go back up to normal. I installed a new booster (rebuilt) last august 2025. Didn't have any problems until a couple of weeks ago. When I was working on the throttle body issues last month, I noticed some leaking around the booster vacuum line, so I replaced it. I have gone back and re-tightened the hose clamps and don't hear or see and leaks. I don't think the booster itself is leaking internally. The brake feels like normal and it stops ok. The pedal doesn't go to the floor, and I don't hear any hissing. When the truck is off, I still have pressure, so I guess the check valve is, ok? I do question the rubber check valve grommet. Maybe its leaking around it? The replacement hose was just a section of new hose. I plan to check it some more and test the check valve. When I rebuilt the throttle body, I did replace the idle air control valve with another one I had. It was almost new, so I don't think that is a problem. Any other ideas or test suggestions. Thanks
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