Jump to content

Brake Controller Adapters


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have searched and can't find if there is a brake controller adapter that plugs in under dash like my '04 did for the 2008 Sierra? I have the tow package but not the factory controler.

 

Thanks

Posted
I have searched and can't find if there is a brake controller adapter that plugs in under dash like my '04 did for the 2008 Sierra? I have the tow package but not the factory controler.

 

Thanks

 

Starting with the new '07 body styles you don't do the plug-in harness like you did on the previous generations. There is a group of 4 wires up under the dash that you will have to pull down and direct wire your brake controller in to. I just did this with my Suburban.

 

Here is one set of instructions: etrailer Here are the directions that I used to install mine: stealthrv

Posted
I have searched and can't find if there is a brake controller adapter that plugs in under dash like my '04 did for the 2008 Sierra? I have the tow package but not the factory controler.

 

Thanks

 

Starting with the new '07 body styles you don't do the plug-in harness like you did on the previous generations. There is a group of 4 wires up under the dash that you will have to pull down and direct wire your brake controller in to. I just did this with my Suburban.

 

Here is one set of instructions: etrailer Here are the directions that I used to install mine: stealthrv

 

 

 

It seems stupid that GM stopped using a plug for a trailer brake controller harness but at least the wires are still there. With the earlier trucks that came with a towing package GM gave you a harness with the plug on one end and a fuse for the 12v power lead.

 

My 08 came with the factory controller so I didn't have to do anything. But I had to go buy the 12v fuse. That's pretty cheap on the part of GM.

Posted

One of the problems with the harness was people losing them. When I bought my truck new (I ordered it), it wasn't with my truck. I picked it up 2 hours after it came in on the truck. Dealership had to find me one as I was planning on hooking a brake controller up the next day. The other thing is buying a used truck. Typically the previous owner wouldn't leave them in the glovebox, so then you had to order one. Actually it was a 2 step process before. 1.) Wire the harness to the controller 2.) Plug the harness into the fuse box under the dash (and there were 2 it would fit) so you had to figure out which one. So all in all, I don't see where this way is any worse or any better. A little harder to hook the wires up because you have to do it in the vehicle, but at least you don't have to go buy a harness after it gets lost.

Posted

Thanks. I can't believe I have to connect wires under the hood. This truck has been a real step backward from the '03 and '04 models that I have owned.

Posted
One of the problems with the harness was people losing them. When I bought my truck new (I ordered it), it wasn't with my truck. I picked it up 2 hours after it came in on the truck. Dealership had to find me one as I was planning on hooking a brake controller up the next day. The other thing is buying a used truck. Typically the previous owner wouldn't leave them in the glovebox, so then you had to order one. Actually it was a 2 step process before. 1.) Wire the harness to the controller 2.) Plug the harness into the fuse box under the dash (and there were 2 it would fit) so you had to figure out which one. So all in all, I don't see where this way is any worse or any better. A little harder to hook the wires up because you have to do it in the vehicle, but at least you don't have to go buy a harness after it gets lost.

 

When I bought my '99 from the local dealer, the harness was in the glove box. Typically, when a PDI is done on new trucks that had the tow package, there is a checkoff item for the harness.

 

I had bought a Prodigy controller and I wound up splicing the truck harness to the Prodigy harness so I was able to do that inside. With the Tekonsha controllers, they offer a complete harness for GM, Ford, Dodge, and Toyota trucks that have the prpper connectors at both ends. I didn't know about them at the time otherwise I would have ordered one. For the 99 it was all of $11.99.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...