P1631 And Unusual Key Keyless Entry Behavior?

[matt_o_70]

HI,

I have a 2000 Bravada that has been running down it's battery if left undriven for over a week. I bought this used and it has been doing this since I have had the vehicle. In order to try to better understand the source of the problem I removed the aftermarket alarm/remote start system that was installed by previous owner. It seemed that the OEM and the aftermarket systems did not always get along properly. The security light would sometimes go out after locking but on other occasions it did not and would stay flashing even though the doors were locked.

 

Since removing the alarm system and repairing the wires: The vehicle starts fine and so far has not drained the battery when parked for a period of days. however the OEM keyless entry fob will lock the vehicle but will not unlock. Prior to this the OEM key fob always locked and unlocked the vehicle sucessfully.

 

In an attempt to check the key fob battery I have tried to resyncronize the fob by pressing the lock and unlock at the same time for 7 seconds. When I do this nothing happens. The manual suggests the locks should cycle. It then says that if this process is not functional to take it to the dealer. I have checked for codes and have nothing current but do have a P1631 in the history? Theft deterrent system password improper - is the text with my P1631 dtc.

 

I have seen that this system may be sensitive to cahnges in the resistance of the passlock wires? I did have to repair the yellow wire that was cut for thesecurity system override. It is soldered and I believe it is part of the Paslock system. but the message text leave me to believe it is a password issue.

 

Prior to removing the aftermarket alarm there were times that the vehicle was attempted to start that the aftermarket alarm was not reset. So the fuel pump was disabled by the passlock. The 10 minute reset would overcome this or resetting the aftermarket alarm. So I believe that this code may be quite old.

 

1) should this code clear if I remove the battery or after 40 successful warm up cycles without a problem with out a problem?

 

2) What needs to be done to get the keyless fob to resyncronize if the standard process will not work?

 

3) on the excessive parasitic draw issue - can anyone provide a confirmed current draw that is in spec?

 

I expect that it should be below 200ma?

 

any thoughts or help apprecieated.

 

Matt