Head Bolt Torque 2004 Avelanche 1500 5.3

[jdeeg4276]

 

1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts.
   

10.1Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).

step #1-I understand this Duh 22 foot lbs torque 10.2Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.

step #2-This i dont have the tool but i know what a 90 degree turn looks like10.3Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J 45059.

ok so is what im reading is to tighten ( 1-8 ) 90 degrees a second time over the first 90 degrees, and over the already 22 ft lbs torque10.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

1. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts.
   

11.1Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 11.2Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.11.3Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass in sequence to 70 degrees using the J 45059.11.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.Here is my first question in which head is design #1 or design #2?

 

Second question am i tightening bolts 1-10 90 degrees twice and then on the second pass im tightening 9 and 10 only 50 degrees more instead of the 90 degrees?

[jdeeg4276]

so if there was a torqe spec in ft lbs what would it be?

[Nytemare]

so if there was a torqe spec in ft lbs what would it be?

Hella Tight.

 

we have had a 350ft-lb wrench on a bolt needing 90* and it maxed out at about 60*

 

There is no torque numbers for TTY bolts... (tty means Torque to yield, for those who dont know)...They don't need a specific torque, they need the stretch that a turn of X* gives them.

 

I would grab a haynes manual if it were me, that would show you pictures of the two different heads.

 

You definitely have the sequence right in your mind...at least I am reading it the same way as you.

[bossier62guy]

so if there was a torqe spec in ft lbs what would it be?

 

According to GM technical specs you need the following to do it correctly....

http://www.handsontools.com/Kent-Moore-J-4...GM_p_18562.html

[bossier62guy]

that tool is unnecessary and is a PITA ,i just eyeballed what ever the angle is,works good,

 

 

did i see a price of $500.?

 

Yes you did....all I said was that was what the GM tech data says....I personally wouldn't eyeball it. Of course you can buy a lot cheaper torque angle meter than what GM suggest....

 

yeah, really cheap angle meter...its called a protractor and a grease pen...you can get them at the dollar store...for about a buck 75 each.

 

 

whatever floats your boat LOL.....it's not my engine.

 

You ever use one of those angle meters...finding an anchor point is half the battle...

I have built many a engines and done quite a few head jobs without one...haven't had a problem yet.

 

 

I worked on aircraft for the majority of my life....you don't cut corners period....like I said, it's not my engine.

[gmtech4]

that tool is unnecessary and is a PITA ,i just eyeballed what ever the angle is,works good,

 

 

did i see a price of $500.?

[Nytemare]

I worked on aircraft for the majority of my life....you don't cut corners period....like I said, it's not my engine.

That explains it.....I have worked with quite a few aircraft mechanics on board the ships...they are pretty meticulous...

 

I worked on guns and I now work on torpedo systems...where close enough is as perfect as it gets. Sometimes a carefully placed adjustment swing from the highly calibrated knock-o-meter (hammer) works very well.

 

 

But yeah man....engines are not that perfect...90* or 89/91 is fine...if it calls for 90 and you turn it 70...well thats just way out. If it were that important they wouldn't be using dial gauges where parallax can account for up to a 5% error.

[bossier62guy]

I worked on aircraft for the majority of my life....you don't cut corners period....like I said, it's not my engine.

That explains it.....I have worked with quite a few aircraft mechanics on board the ships...they are pretty meticulous...

 

I worked on guns and I now work on torpedo systems...where close enough is as perfect as it gets. Sometimes a carefully placed adjustment swing from the highly calibrated knock-o-meter (hammer) works very well.

 

 

But yeah man....engines are not that perfect...90* or 89/91 is fine...if it calls for 90 and you turn it 70...well thats just way out. If it were that important they wouldn't be using dial gauges where parallax can account for up to a 5% error.

 

 

Yea it does tend to make one "anal" LOL.....I understand about the engine torque though.....if it were angles other than 90 degrees I'd be more concerned.

[Nytemare]

I worked on aircraft for the majority of my life....you don't cut corners period....like I said, it's not my engine.

That explains it.....I have worked with quite a few aircraft mechanics on board the ships...they are pretty meticulous...

 

I worked on guns and I now work on torpedo systems...where close enough is as perfect as it gets. Sometimes a carefully placed adjustment swing from the highly calibrated knock-o-meter (hammer) works very well.

 

 

But yeah man....engines are not that perfect...90* or 89/91 is fine...if it calls for 90 and you turn it 70...well thats just way out. If it were that important they wouldn't be using dial gauges where parallax can account for up to a 5% error.

 

 

Yea it does tend to make one "anal" LOL.....I understand about the engine torque though.....if it were angles other than 90 degrees I'd be more concerned.

 

as long as you lay down a 0 ref mark, and a XX* mark with your protractor, make a mark on your socket head and align it with the 0* ref mark and turn to the XX* mark, your fine...the 1-2% that a cheap protractor is out is neither here nor there...just as much as a dial angle meter. Like I said...its worked for me thus far...on many engines.

 

We have a nice Snap-On angle meter in the shop too... used it a couple times now and it almost always slips....try explaining to a guy that he needs another set of new head bolts cause you just screwed up the last set having the tool slip.

[bossier62guy]

I worked on aircraft for the majority of my life....you don't cut corners period....like I said, it's not my engine.

That explains it.....I have worked with quite a few aircraft mechanics on board the ships...they are pretty meticulous...

 

I worked on guns and I now work on torpedo systems...where close enough is as perfect as it gets. Sometimes a carefully placed adjustment swing from the highly calibrated knock-o-meter (hammer) works very well.

 

 

But yeah man....engines are not that perfect...90* or 89/91 is fine...if it calls for 90 and you turn it 70...well thats just way out. If it were that important they wouldn't be using dial gauges where parallax can account for up to a 5% error.

 

 

Yea it does tend to make one "anal" LOL.....I understand about the engine torque though.....if it were angles other than 90 degrees I'd be more concerned.

 

as long as you lay down a 0 ref mark, and a XX* mark with your protractor, make a mark on your socket head and align it with the 0* ref mark and turn to the XX* mark, your fine...the 1-2% that a cheap protractor is out is neither here nor there...just as much as a dial angle meter. Like I said...its worked for me thus far...on many engines.

 

We have a nice Snap-On angle meter in the shop too... used it a couple times now and it almost always slips....try explaining to a guy that he needs another set of new head bolts cause you just screwed up the last set having the tool slip.

 

 

Understand that....

[bossier62guy]

that tool is unnecessary and is a PITA ,i just eyeballed what ever the angle is,works good,

 

 

did i see a price of $500.?

 

Yes you did....all I said was that was what the GM tech data says....I personally wouldn't eyeball it. Of course you can buy a lot cheaper torque angle meter than what GM suggest....

[Nytemare]

that tool is unnecessary and is a PITA ,i just eyeballed what ever the angle is,works good,

 

 

did i see a price of $500.?

 

Yes you did....all I said was that was what the GM tech data says....I personally wouldn't eyeball it. Of course you can buy a lot cheaper torque angle meter than what GM suggest....

 

yeah, really cheap angle meter...its called a protractor and a grease pen...you can get them at the dollar store...for about a buck 75 each.

[bossier62guy]

that tool is unnecessary and is a PITA ,i just eyeballed what ever the angle is,works good,

 

 

did i see a price of $500.?

 

Yes you did....all I said was that was what the GM tech data says....I personally wouldn't eyeball it. Of course you can buy a lot cheaper torque angle meter than what GM suggest....

 

yeah, really cheap angle meter...its called a protractor and a grease pen...you can get them at the dollar store...for about a buck 75 each.

 

 

whatever floats your boat LOL.....it's not my engine.

[bossier62guy]

1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts.

    

10.1Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).

step #1-I understand this Duh 22 foot lbs torque 10.2Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.

step #2-This i dont have the tool but i know what a 90 degree turn looks like10.3Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J 45059.

ok so is what im reading is to tighten ( 1-8 ) 90 degrees a second time over the first 90 degrees, and over the already 22 ft lbs torque10.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

1. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts.

    

11.1Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 11.2Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.11.3Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass in sequence to 70 degrees using the J 45059.11.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.Here is my first question in which head is design #1 or design #2?

 

Second question am i tightening bolts 1-10 90 degrees twice and then on the second pass im tightening 9 and 10 only 50 degrees more instead of the 90 degrees?

 

1st Question: First design engine blocks have different drill and tap depths using both medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) and long 155 mm (6.1 in) M11 cylinder head bolts. Second design engine blocks use only the medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) bolt with a common drill and tap depth.

2nd Question: Your thinking on the torquing process looks correct.

[jdeeg4276]

1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts.

    

10.1Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).

step #1-I understand this Duh 22 foot lbs torque 10.2Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.

step #2-This i dont have the tool but i know what a 90 degree turn looks like10.3Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J 45059.

ok so is what im reading is to tighten ( 1-8 ) 90 degrees a second time over the first 90 degrees, and over the already 22 ft lbs torque10.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

1. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts.

    

11.1Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 11.2Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.11.3Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass in sequence to 70 degrees using the J 45059.11.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.Here is my first question in which head is design #1 or design #2?

 

Second question am i tightening bolts 1-10 90 degrees twice and then on the second pass im tightening 9 and 10 only 50 degrees more instead of the 90 degrees?

 

1st Question: First design engine blocks have different drill and tap depths using both medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) and long 155 mm (6.1 in) M11 cylinder head bolts. Second design engine blocks use only the medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) bolt with a common drill and tap depth.

2nd Question: Your thinking on the torquing process looks correct.

 

 

ok so i understand the first disign and second design thing. so im working on a 2004 5.3 the only difference in bolt sizes are number 9 & 10. im no talking about the really small bolts under the intake. thanks for all the help again guys

[jdeeg4276]

1. Tighten the first design cylinder head bolts.

    

10.1Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft).

step #1-I understand this Duh 22 foot lbs torque 10.2Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.

step #2-This i dont have the tool but i know what a 90 degree turn looks like10.3Tighten the first design M11 cylinder head bolts (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8) to 90 degrees and the M11 cylinder head bolts (9 and 10) to 50 degrees a final pass in sequence to using the J 45059.

ok so is what im reading is to tighten ( 1-8 ) 90 degrees a second time over the first 90 degrees, and over the already 22 ft lbs torque10.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.

1. Tighten the second design cylinder head bolts.

    

11.1Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a first pass in sequence to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 11.2Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a second pass in sequence to 90 degrees using the J 45059.11.3Tighten the second design M11 cylinder head bolts (1-10) a final pass in sequence to 70 degrees using the J 45059.11.4Tighten the M8 cylinder head bolts (11,12,13,14,15) to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). Begin with the center bolt (11) and alternating side-to-side, work outward tightening all of the bolts.Here is my first question in which head is design #1 or design #2?

 

Second question am i tightening bolts 1-10 90 degrees twice and then on the second pass im tightening 9 and 10 only 50 degrees more instead of the 90 degrees?

 

1st Question: First design engine blocks have different drill and tap depths using both medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) and long 155 mm (6.1 in) M11 cylinder head bolts. Second design engine blocks use only the medium length 100 mm (3.94 in) bolt with a common drill and tap depth.

2nd Question: Your thinking on the torquing process looks correct.

 

 

ok so i understand the first disign and second design thing. so im working on a 2004 5.3 the only difference in bolt sizes are number 9 & 10. im no talking about the really small bolts under the intake. thanks for all the help again guys

 

 

 

 

oops sounds like ive got first design bolts