factory power running board issue. 08 tahoe LTZ

moe.jam25 · May 2, 2015

I hope someone can help me.... all started some how the running board on the passenger side was stuck up and drivers side stuck down. They wouldn't even try to move when the doors opened and shut. So I started looking into issues people were having with them.

First of all, the button is not pushed in. I then checked the fuse. Not blown but replaced it anyway. I also found process to turn on the transportation mode ( all dorms open,parking break,ect....) that didn't make anything happen. I then checked the power going to the Controler with a multimeter and it had power. After that I figured it was either in the controler or the computer it's self.

Brought it do the dealership and paid way too much ($100) for them to put it on the tech 2 scanner (at this point is behind closed doors). They came back and said that they were able to move both of them. In fact I have both up now. They told me that a relay in the controler was fried and I needed a new Controler. Be use the only way they could get them up and down was by "overriding" the Controler.

I ordered the new Controler plugged it in and still nothing. Tried the shipping mode thing again...... I'm at a total loss. Please help

Doug_Scott · May 2, 2015

Not sure why you did not let the dealer replace the part for you, that way you would not have to take it back, it never would have left.

You can try going back to the dealer, show them the invoice for the part, tell them you changed it, and it is still not working.

While I can understand that taking something back to the dealer will cost more than you doing the work yourself, that is only true if you actually know what you are doing, and have access to the correct information. Depending on what the mechanic did at the dealer to bypass the controller, it may not actually mean the controller is bad. There are a few connections in the wiring for that circuit, and any one of them may also create the same condition.

I do not know what he did to bypass it, and likely you don't either, so, do you know for sure that the mechanic reconnected everything back up again? Could he have left something disconnected to prevent further damage, and was planning on reconnecting it after he replaced the module? I know that in my own experience as a mechanic, if I had diagnosed something that needed a part replacement to fix it, I would leave the system in a safe state, that did not require me to start over again when the part came in. Perhaps the mechanic did this on your truck, thinking that you were going to authorize the repair. The mechanic would know if the part was available before you were told it needed something, and if it was not going to be there same day, the vehicle would be put into a movable state and put back in the parking lot. Did you happen to re-check the fuses after changing the controller? Could the fuse be missing?