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Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %. Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test. Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission. Start and idle the engine for 2 min. Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min. Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min. Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run. If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator. Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check. Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set. Looks like one procedure to me. Repeated as necessary.

My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k. I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.

I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]

Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L. 400SS.

You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.

There is more than one "drive cycle" for your vehicle. Which specific drive cycle do you need/want?

Yes. Thanks. Jim

Great video!! I looked at the Bilsteins but after some research I went with the Fox 2.0 shocks. Rides great empty and smoothed out the ride.

It is piston slap not oil consumption. If it works, it works. If it don`t, it`s been running like this for 25 years.

I can feel and hear the driver seat bottom cushion in a ‘21 Denali with the safety pkg shifting left and right with my weight around turns. Power seat base all appears solid, tight and operational, backrest doesn’t appear to shift, rather just the bottom cushion assembly itself seems to “clunk” back and forth. Any suggestions?

They messaged me earlier and said they are opening a case with GM engineering.

You'll want to figure out what part number you need (exact model year, ventilated or non-ventilated seats, color choice) but just doing a simple search online seems to indicate there's still inventory out there. Maybe do some looking around at online sellers/warehouses and see? Example: https://g.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/gm-seat-cover-84520459

What it did from what you describe sounds a lot like what was happening to the earlier years of the very similar transmission in the Duramax version, out of nowhere it would slam into second gear and I believe then that the repair was to replace the valve body. There was that software that came out which was supposed to sense if certain parameters were not being met and warn the driver that there could be an issue happening in the future but that was not a fix. There were some changes somewhere along the way with the valve bodies but when and how well they have panned out I don't know. The ten speed in the Duramax was out since 2020 so its had a lot more use history vs the gas version. Keep us posted to what GM decides to do with it to rectify the issue.

What is the drive cycle for my 2012 Silverado 1500 5.3L?

Now granted the part I'm after is for a 2018, but still fits a 2021 Enclave. We purchased an exceptionally well cared for 2018 Enclave and the only wear item I see is the driver's lower seat cover and it's still in decent shape, I would just like to refresh it. Turns out this shale-colored lower seat cover is discontinued and none are left in the country. Is this a supply issue with GM or are they really discontinuing these items which tend to wear after some use and this would be an ideal time to have them in inventory IMO.

Another day, another 10 speed goes down

$3.90 to $4.50 depending on the brand and location of the station. 87 regular.

Guys that read Dizzy's thread know that eons ago after multiple manifold pulls to clear the CCV orifice I converted it to a PCV system with an orifice below it via the valve cover. The blow-by (sticky rings) was so bad it was impossible to keep clean and accumulated water in the oil in the winter when the moisture would freeze in the fresh air side. The PCV functioning mainly as a check valve. I carefully sized the orifice to reproduce the factory values for crankcase pressure at idle. Well...took a slug of oil to get my attention but the ring seal improvement meant the system was over drafting sucking oil up and out the breather. (V8 guys with orifice systems are nodding their heads). So today I choked it down...allot....to replicate the "just enough to hold a piece of paper on the fresh air side at idle". May still be to much but I'm working with shims at the moment. When I get it sorted I'll make a proper plate and plug. Perhaps using carburetor jets to tune it. So I guess this means it isn't my imagination. Dizzy is a pig guys so don't go expecting huge moves in equipment (your equipment) that is in much better shape. A needle valve....lord that just came to me....

I had a new engine installed with under 5,000 miles. It shut off coming around a residential street corner and wouldn't restart. Dealer indicated it seized. New one has been fine since with 10,000 miles on the replaced engine. Annoying but I was given a loaner for the 5 weeks it was down. I won't go with the 6.2l gasser so it's 3.0l again. I love the economy and it tows my enclosed car trailer just fine.

Coming back from towing a car to my daughter in Nashville truck started making a screaming noise from underneath. Pulled over placed in park and sure enough whining noise from underneath. Dropped at the dealer fearing new tranny or another front pump/cover replacement. Service writer said it sounded like the tranny too... Well $300, new idler and a belt all is good. Pop the hood and give a listen. lol Now I'm telling dealers I'm no longer interested in a new truck.

HD uses the 6.6 gas. Oil consumption while heavy working is considered normal. 1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel is the normal rate above 8600lbs GVWR. If more than that, it is considered excessive. They will have to perform an oil consumption test using the guidelines in TSB 03-06-01-023J. Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons, and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the combustion process, part of this oil layer is consumed. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines. Oil Consumption Oil usage has a direct relationship with the amount of fuel used. The harder an engine works, the more fuel and oil it will use. Therefore, oil usage as a factor of fuel usage is a more accurate indicator of acceptable oil consumption levels than vehicle mileage for vehicles at or above 8600 GVW. The accepted rate of oil consumption for gasoline engines in vehicles at or above 8600 GVW is 1 liter (1 qt) within 400 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used. This rate only applies to vehicles under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, driven at legal speeds and within design intent of the vehicle. Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption. Gasket and External Leaks Inspect the oil pans, engine covers, and the engine oil cooler for leakage. Inspect for oil leakage into the engine coolant. Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick) The vehicle must be parked on a level surface to obtain accurate oil level readings. Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked. Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 15 minutes, after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked. Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality. High Speed or High RPM Driving Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected. Towing or Heavy Usage Towing a trailer or hauling additional weight will increase oil consumption. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption. PTO Operation Operation of a PTO will increase fuel and oil usage, as the PTO driven accessory uses engine power to operate. Crankcase Ventilation System Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use. Oil Dilution from Condensation On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption. Engine Temperature If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order. Engine Wear Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption. Measurement of Oil Consumption Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi). Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual). Park the vehicle on a level surface. Wait at least 15 minutes, after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. Check the oil level and record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin. Next ensure the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick. add oil if necessary. Also ensure the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner Manual Ask the customer once they have consumed 100 gallons of fuel schedule an appointment and return to the dealer for inspection. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 379 liters (100 gallons) of fuel used, explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.

I have a 2024 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.2 liter engine, Vin: 2GC4YME79R1273849, with 27,437 miles. Recently we took a trip from Candor, NY to Townsend, TN pulling our fifth wheel, when I got close to the Townsend, TN area The truck gave me a message of low oil. I checked the dip stick and found it was 2 quarts low. Today, August 27, 2026, I had the oil changed and the technician Found the truck was very low on oil. Is there a Recall for this? What is my recourse for this issue? Do I call the dealer where I bought it or any chevy dealer? Robert Strickland 292 Owego Road Candor, NY 13743 352-502-6588 [email protected]

We understand the importance of understanding how your Sierra performs, @SoCal Angler. Our team would like to gather the proper details to assist you with your inquiry about your truck's automatic braking. When you have a moment, please visit: https://s.chevy.com/support-request and fill out the request form with pertinent details. This will ensure your request is routed correctly so we may take a further look. We will keep an eye out for your outreach.

That is the funnel kit I bought and for being here in Canada I did get a better deal than what other sources were charging through a certain supplier in town that sources more directly and they ordered it for me. There are other items now on the market which would be perfect as well but this has worked well which was the hope when I bought it. I mentioned the Amsoil quart bottles as they have that squarish shape up top and it props nicely on the rim of the opening without falling into the funnel so I can leave them sit and drip a bit. You may have already figured out that to get the cap off the valve cover unless one is 7 + feet tall its not going to be reached without standing on a step of some sort and so when I do that I put the right adapter in and just leave the elbow on the funnel all the time anyway and open the lid and then if using quart containers for sure I can stand beside the truck and leisurely add the oil, and I can leave that funnel on when starting the engine to let it idle to fill the filter and then add the rest of the oil to top it up before removing the funnel and putting the factory cap back on. I put the cap back on the top and slide the bottom cap on as it fits onto the elbow adapter also and then store the funnel in a clean household plastic garbage bag along with the adapter so I have no reason to be washing out the inside of the funnel as I keep it completely clean between uses. Draining the oil as per the under the truck portion, yes indeed that is slick as someone was thinking on GM's part there and admittedly I don't drop the oil screaming hot in this truck due to the exhaust being there and makes it safer as far as the oil temp if its just warmed up some instead as I don't have the truck on any ramps etc as I do it as the tires sit on the garage floor. The filter is not boiling hot then either and can drop it off into another pail after pulling the drain plug and just leave it drip out. Go back under a few hours later with new filter in hand and clean off the filter base and put the new filter on and install the drain plug. The filter is a little cramped in there as per wrapping ones hand around the filter and I am so used to using the band style filter removal tool that its no big deal and same for snugging it up. My filter wrench is many years old now but I think this is the current version and sounds like the right size, just in case my explanation was not great ( those nylon strap wrenches that one tool fits all filters are not my favorite tool to use, I much prefer this style personally ) 57020 Swivel Gripper - No Slip Filter Wrench - Small | Lisle Corporation And again about the oil draining and filter setup under these GM trucks, I've watched Ford videos of them struggling with oil flying sideways out of the oil pan on the gas 7.3 due to the sideways drain plug onto other components or cross members and guys trying to make shields out of carboard etc and other Ford pickups that Ford insisted they have sideways drain plugs. One win for GM there anyway with this engine.