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Ugh, amateurs. But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters. I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?

You ask. The answer is yes. I think the strategy is brilliant. Or do you like more death and destruction? Gas is going down here. Maybe you need to change who you elect. Quit with the ridiculous statements or questions. You won’t get these answers.

Kicking off the weekend with $5.06 at the Kroger for 87. Are we great, yet?

3.41 Kroger’s in Montgomery TX

More proof you're a child.

I really wanted to go to the Fox 2.5's But they were like ~$1,500 vs ~$425 for the Bilsteins. And my research on FOX shocks was that they do not have a great reputation for longevity. I am sure they the FOX's are fantastic, but I know from experience the Bilsteins are rock solid for at least 150k miles.

Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %. Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test. Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission. Start and idle the engine for 2 min. Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min. Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min. Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run. If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator. Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check. Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set. Looks like one procedure to me. Repeated as necessary.

My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k. I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.

I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]

Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L. 400SS.

You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.

There is more than one "drive cycle" for your vehicle. Which specific drive cycle do you need/want?

Yes. Thanks. Jim

Great video!! I looked at the Bilsteins but after some research I went with the Fox 2.0 shocks. Rides great empty and smoothed out the ride.

It is piston slap not oil consumption. If it works, it works. If it don`t, it`s been running like this for 25 years.

I can feel and hear the driver seat bottom cushion in a ‘21 Denali with the safety pkg shifting left and right with my weight around turns. Power seat base all appears solid, tight and operational, backrest doesn’t appear to shift, rather just the bottom cushion assembly itself seems to “clunk” back and forth. Any suggestions?

They messaged me earlier and said they are opening a case with GM engineering.

You'll want to figure out what part number you need (exact model year, ventilated or non-ventilated seats, color choice) but just doing a simple search online seems to indicate there's still inventory out there. Maybe do some looking around at online sellers/warehouses and see? Example: https://g.oempartsonline.com/oem-parts/gm-seat-cover-84520459

What it did from what you describe sounds a lot like what was happening to the earlier years of the very similar transmission in the Duramax version, out of nowhere it would slam into second gear and I believe then that the repair was to replace the valve body. There was that software that came out which was supposed to sense if certain parameters were not being met and warn the driver that there could be an issue happening in the future but that was not a fix. There were some changes somewhere along the way with the valve bodies but when and how well they have panned out I don't know. The ten speed in the Duramax was out since 2020 so its had a lot more use history vs the gas version. Keep us posted to what GM decides to do with it to rectify the issue.

What is the drive cycle for my 2012 Silverado 1500 5.3L?

Now granted the part I'm after is for a 2018, but still fits a 2021 Enclave. We purchased an exceptionally well cared for 2018 Enclave and the only wear item I see is the driver's lower seat cover and it's still in decent shape, I would just like to refresh it. Turns out this shale-colored lower seat cover is discontinued and none are left in the country. Is this a supply issue with GM or are they really discontinuing these items which tend to wear after some use and this would be an ideal time to have them in inventory IMO.

Another day, another 10 speed goes down

$3.90 to $4.50 depending on the brand and location of the station. 87 regular.

Guys that read Dizzy's thread know that eons ago after multiple manifold pulls to clear the CCV orifice I converted it to a PCV system with an orifice below it via the valve cover. The blow-by (sticky rings) was so bad it was impossible to keep clean and accumulated water in the oil in the winter when the moisture would freeze in the fresh air side. The PCV functioning mainly as a check valve. I carefully sized the orifice to reproduce the factory values for crankcase pressure at idle. Well...took a slug of oil to get my attention but the ring seal improvement meant the system was over drafting sucking oil up and out the breather. (V8 guys with orifice systems are nodding their heads). So today I choked it down...allot....to replicate the "just enough to hold a piece of paper on the fresh air side at idle". May still be to much but I'm working with shims at the moment. When I get it sorted I'll make a proper plate and plug. Perhaps using carburetor jets to tune it. So I guess this means it isn't my imagination. Dizzy is a pig guys so don't go expecting huge moves in equipment (your equipment) that is in much better shape. A needle valve....lord that just came to me....