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So after about 40k miles I'm down to 8/32" and getting noisier every day. What I've learned: 1. Keep your tires at 50/45 unless you're towing or hauling for best fuel economy and even tire wear. (mpg is 19@77 and 21 @ 75) 2. 0-60 goes from ~5.5 to ~7.0 3. Airing down on the beach is optional but still results in a much easier time. 4. Ride is still great up to about 70...then (as my son states) feels like riding on cobblestone streets. 5. Offroad traction...great. On-road in the wet...not so much. Now off to selecting another tire...maybe pirelli scorpion xtm at?

Exactly what it is. Remove the drive shaft, clean it with brake cleaner and put new grease back in it the yoke. Mine would make the noise shifting and even driving over bumps. https://youtu.be/L5-Dt2RdmbU?is=iYsoJ-0nWdrGgn2-

Survey says yes based on the first engine to be released for the Gen 6 engines, the LS6 in the 2027 Corvette. LS6 has DFM. Lifter QC and construction has been improved (better/larger locking pin). Bottom end has dual oiling circuits instead of one like on the gen Vs. The internet (i.e. Facebook) sleuths saw that patent for a rocker arm cylinder deactivation on a pushrod engine and is running wild that all of the Gen 6s will have this when so far...none do. Service manual, parts catalog, etc. on the LS6, its got 16 active lifters and has DFM.

I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.

We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.

HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness. Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials. To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's. 90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff. That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes. Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made. Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?

Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.

Ugh, amateurs. But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters. I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?

You ask. The answer is yes. I think the strategy is brilliant. Or do you like more death and destruction? Gas is going down here. Maybe you need to change who you elect. Quit with the ridiculous statements or questions. You won’t get these answers.

Kicking off the weekend with $5.06 at the Kroger for 87. Are we great, yet?

3.41 Kroger’s in Montgomery TX

More proof you're a child.

I really wanted to go to the Fox 2.5's But they were like ~$1,500 vs ~$425 for the Bilsteins. And my research on FOX shocks was that they do not have a great reputation for longevity. I am sure they the FOX's are fantastic, but I know from experience the Bilsteins are rock solid for at least 150k miles.

Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %. Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test. Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF. Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood. Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission. Start and idle the engine for 2 min. Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min. Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min. Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min. Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off. Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min. Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min. Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run. If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator. Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check. Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set. Looks like one procedure to me. Repeated as necessary.

My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k. I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.

I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]

Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L. 400SS.

You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.

There is more than one "drive cycle" for your vehicle. Which specific drive cycle do you need/want?

Yes. Thanks. Jim

Great video!! I looked at the Bilsteins but after some research I went with the Fox 2.0 shocks. Rides great empty and smoothed out the ride.

It is piston slap not oil consumption. If it works, it works. If it don`t, it`s been running like this for 25 years.

I can feel and hear the driver seat bottom cushion in a ‘21 Denali with the safety pkg shifting left and right with my weight around turns. Power seat base all appears solid, tight and operational, backrest doesn’t appear to shift, rather just the bottom cushion assembly itself seems to “clunk” back and forth. Any suggestions?

They messaged me earlier and said they are opening a case with GM engineering.