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Here is my place on the water. I mean it’s just my Airbnb that I use as a write off. I own it free and clear You should consider adding a pool to your yard. It’s just missing that wow factor that my place offers.

Hopefully you’ll be able to afford a house that’s not flanked on either side by another house just inches away. at least you can easily pass the sugar to your neighbors. Next you’ll say that isn’t your house. Probably picking up Brad bill for the local electrical engineers Ted talk.

Well I'm all done, back together, and running. Here's a few final thoughts about this job now that it's all done. If you have a decently stocked toolbox and your back is in decent shape you can do this by yourself without pulling the engine. You will need a couple specialty tools but nothing crazy. The GM cam that is recommended for this job if you delete the DFM is called a "L8T" cam. I was concerned that the engine would need actual tuning but that is not the case, It runs fine. You will need someone with HP tuners to turn off the DFM and tell it to ignore all codes associated with it that would cause a CEL. Beyond all that, if you have it apart already, it's a great time to go ahead and do a tuneup. I put new plugs, wires, belts, and hoses on since they were off anyways. This of course adds some cost but worth it to me. I also did a couple of frivolous things like put a new water pump assembly on and purchased my own HP tuners. All in all I have just over $3500 in the whole job including all parts, fluids, machine work on the heads, catch can, and the HP tuners stuff. Compared to the one quote I received from a GM dealership it's quite a savings. They quoted me over $10k for the job if the cam was bad which turned out it was and that was just putting it back the way it was with DFM lifters.

ARC (rpo Z45) is optional on 1500 High Country It is standard on 1500 Denali and 1500 Denali Ultimate. It is not available on other trims.

I received notice of needing an update via recall multiple times. Seems like the dealership is slow to update records, or maybe GM just doesn't intake the information and update in a timely fashion. Same exact thing occurred for me and dealership told me I was all set. A week or so later, the information online was updated to reflect the same via GM.

If I'm reading the stuff right, V = Flint plant, 02 = February, 19 = 19th day. As for the "FLK", that's the suffix code and I just found a PDF for "The Complete Chevrolet V-8 Engine Code Pocket Guide 1955-1991" from a Corvette page and its awesome. THE BOOK - LIME_BOOK_2018.pdf FLK = 1985, 350 cubic inch, 160HP, 4 barrel carb, manual transmission truck. I was also able to find the p/n for it too, 14080371, which only comes up in 1985 G van 1 ton, suffix FLK, 350 VIN digit M, M40 THM400/3L80 and NB2 Cali emissions. So I find it interesting that the engine book shows manual, but the GM parts catalog shows it would have been an auto transmission. But more importantly, it seems to support that it came from a 1985 G van, the engine serial "14010207" checks out, as does the "FLK" stamping on the block pad. As for the "CF4137529", I'm getting hung up on that. "137529" should be the last 6 of the vehicle VIN.

If you have ARC in the SLT trim, then yes. If the ARC option is not on it, then it would just be the shift point change.

I miss studded snow tires. I had them in NH then in PA in the winters. In between company's, i worked in Stow VT for 3 weeks moving a sub station that blew up at the bottom of the Van Trap lodge. Nice people there. I still have a set of quick chains that fit my new pig from the other pig. 50mph on dry roads rated for.

This thread brings back memories of my younger days. The only difference the tear down was for performance modifications. Not longevity modifications removing junk that shouldn’t be there in the first place. As far as my lifter tap that happens only when the temperature falls below freezing. I just don’t start the 23 year old truck with the original engine until it warms up. You now made your ride bulletproof, good work.

I ordered my truck with the snow plow prep package w/ aux battery and fifth wheel/goose neck option. I won't be using either but I do use the bed mounted 7 way trailer connector to power the LED light strips in my ARE cap. I test drove an 2024 AT4 HD with the snow plow prep package with the BFG KO3 tires before ordering my truck. I figured that living in VT, someone would want the plow prep package. I run the OEM BFG KO3's during Spring/Summer and Hakkapeliitta LT3 studded snow tires for Fall/Winter at 55 psi front and rear. With 2 people and the stuff in the truck, it weighs 1000 pounds over the curb weight. Truck rides good. I'm guessing if I ran an empty truck it would be a harsher ride.

Quick little update, I have put about 100 miles on it since I finished it up. I don't know if it was cleaning all the gunk / buildup off of the valves, fresh plugs and wires, the DFM delete, or a combo of all of it but it certainly feels a lot more peppy. Also at idle I have had to check several times if it had turned itself off. Its running so smooth its impossible to tell its even running at all Speaking of turning itself off.. I disabled auto start / stop in HP tuners. However the light on the button itself is still on. I believe the setting in HP tuners just denies the condition that would allow it to do the auto shut off but the truck is still looking. So basically it looks like its active but it will never shut itself off. I know with the Pulsar LT module it actually makes the truck think the button has been pushed and you get the notification on the dash and the light is turned off on the button. Just a little bit of info I found interesting.

Are you sure it is not the automatic parking brake?

I find that the qr code on the door jamb only lists some of the rpo codes. Best to ask your dealer to print out the rpo codes from YOUR vin.

i know the SI shows its a lot of work to change the oil separator but you don't have to take the intake off. left front wheel and liner does have to come off to let you at some line clamps and there is one on the right side, the 2 bolts for the coolant line and just push it back against the firewall. you will be able to get it out. because the coolant line is right on top of the engine you don't have to drain much coolant out

Based on where you live, I can believe that!

2018 Jeep GC 97,635 miles 6 qt. Red Line HP 5w30, Fram XG11665 1 bottle Red Line SI-1 in the tank Quiet as church mouse now. Exhaust cam phasers didn’t care for the Valvoline after a couple thousand miles. The brief cold start rattle I had from them is gone now.

I think I'm going to go ahead and do a full coolant system flush just to be safe.

Transmission is 1988. 8LZA is 87-89 1 ton van and 1 ton pickup with 6.2 diesel.

14010207. 80-85 truck 4 bolt mains - Small Block Chevy Engine Block casting and code identification If you want to know more specifics, try and see if you can find the other one or two stampings. That will indicate engine specs and possibly what type of vehicle it actually came from. VIN and Engine Code breakdowns - How to decode Chevy Engine Codes

Yes, for most trims (with ARC optioned) it only firms up the suspension and changes the shift points. For those that have the 6.2 motor there is an "active exhaust" which brings the db's up a bit.

11/25/2024 Service Note: Don't think I shared this from the last tune up. 80K on these plugs. This was the worst of the six. 79,953 actual miles changed at 180,494 miles. Ash deposit. This is the difference between: "Bench Worry" and "Field Results" Results: Worry: For oil chemistries to leave a deposit, foul an O2 or a CAT they must visit the chamber.

Some Assembly Required Is Red Line's HP line now a Group III since Phillips buy out? No. And how can I know? Tab A: A handful of countries in the EU didn't buy into the outcome of the Castrol/XOM lawsuit whose definition allows Group III/III+ base oils to be labeled "Synthetic". For a PCMO/HDMO oil to be distributed within these few countries and carry a "Full Synthetic" label the base oils must be actual honest fabricated molecules not 'reformulated' molecules. This means only Group IV and some of Group V fluids can be labeled and sold as "Full Synthetics". NOT Group III/III+. Germany is one of those countries Slot B: One of two EU distributors for Red Line HP and HP Euro. Both product lines carry "Full Synthetic" labeling. ATOMIC-SHOP GmbH 53520 Meuspath, Gottlieb-Daimler-Str. 13 Gewerbepark am, Nürburgring, I also have a relationship with the US distributor that supplies the German distributor. They pull orders from the same shelves mine are pulled from. Been there, watched that when I got the five cent tour of the new setup recently. That is allot of oil.

Took the day off and made some big progress on the reassembly. Man torquing those head bolts is not fun leaning over the radiator support. Wore me smooth out today.

A friend needed his 36' camper that is 9k in weight towed from the campground. His truck went into limp mode over the weekend. So I went and towed it back to his house. It was a 4hr drive mainly flat except for the on ramps and overpasses. My 6.2 with the 10sp did a great job. I was surprised how well it towed it. I averaged 8.7mpg the entire trip and kept it at 60mph for the most part. Transmission never got above 160.

That's my thoughts as well. I ordered a whole delete kit from Texas speed and have begun tearing into it. It's not a fun job so far.

Here’s some complete crap from Lake: Basically making a blanket statement off of ONE test of an oil (with an unknown mileage on it to boot). You can trust the OLM, it’s actually conservative and there’s no need to even have analysis done. Starting to think for every one of his good videos there’s another that’s simply idiotic.