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All Amsoil driveline fluids in our Santa FE yielded better trans shifts, quieter motor, transfer case and diffs. The OE line or standard line of products is what I use. The top of the line fluids cost aren't justified to me because I change fluids more frequently.

I will ad that putting Amsoil products in the driveline, engine, trans, diffs. of our Kawasaki side by side definitely made it quieter.

I looked at a PPE pan because I just bought a new Trail Boss with the 3.0 and was like, hey, cool, what is PPE and what do they make for our trucks? Here's what I gathered: -The stock pan is basically thin sheet metal. This isn't concerning to me, personally, but would be IF I planned to regularly wheel the truck / take it where high clearance is needed. However, I'm not sure if cast aluminum (PPE pan) is a better choice to safeguard against impact than a softer malleable steel / stock pan. IMO, modifying shape of the pan is preferable to cracking the cast and having all the oil leak out. -The stock pan supposedly retains ~1/2 quart of oil even after it's fully drained through the plug opening. They say this is a potential collection point for sludge and that the oil there doesn't get filtered. My thought: Well, don't let sludge accumulate in the first place, and the oil probably does get filtered. But no, you don't get a full drain out of the stock drain opening. This could be helped by suctioning the remaining oil; OR, determing a root cause for why 1/2 quart remains in the oil. Is this done for any scientific reason? -PPE offers additional sump capacity, 9.5 quarts over the stock 7.0 quart. While I don't believe this warrants any extended drain interval, it may help existing oil cooling capacity and provide additional cushion/safeguard for the protective properties and detergents of the oil during the same interval. It comes with a wallet-reducing mod for sure...$329 on the PPE website, with a total of 3 reviews. Hmm.

Just to clarify here a bit. K2XX (2014-2019 generation) never used "Z83" suspension. They used Z85, Z71, NHT and Z60. Z83 was on the GMT-900 2007-2013. That said. If it were still available, a Z83 sway bar would fit a K2 truck as the frames are rather identical between the two generations. The suspension (shocks and struts) likely would fit too. As for the sway bars.... 32mm and 34mm bars are both replaced by a 36mm bar for 07-13 generation, p/n 23498331 and fits every suspension code 07-13 except for hybrids. 23498331 is also the bar used 2014-2019 for NHT max trailer and ZW9 box delete. The other bar they still have is 22758132 and its a 34mm bar. This would be for a Z85, Z71 and Z60 trucks for 2014-2019. I have verified this info with multiple VINs of GM trucks to see what bar they spec for what suspensions. Dorman appears to be the only aftermarket OE replacement bar and they make a one size fits all bar.

I would use better oil than off the shelf or dealer oil than replace the pan. Amsoil is better and easy to get IMO.

You can override it on my LT with auto by manually upping the fan speed. Your wife will love the "WHOOOOOOOOSH" coming over the microphone when you talk to her. Women absolutely love loud background noise/sound on phone calls. Ask any blue collar guy who gets a phone call at work on an ear bud.

Although the website says it comes with a magnetic drain plug, it does not. It also says it reuses the "stock magnetic fill plug", which it isn't (magnetic). The instructions online and with it are strictly for 19+ Ram. They didn't bother to edit them for the GM twins. Maybe this is why they think stock is mag fill. Either way their crappy drain is not mag as advertised. Skipped their crappy powdercoat slag filled hex drain and installed magnetic IP-03X Gold Plug that I had bought for the transfer case (and painted it so it wouldn't shine against the hammertone grey). Other than that, nice cover, looks great, heavy duty but overall 3/5 on execution for the things mentioned. Especially because they are well known for OEM fit/finish and the integrations with GM at grand scale and especially because this cover isn't cheap and is at the top end of the competition. Cover was heavier than ****** to lift up there under the truck. Had to use a floor jack to assist. Thing is iron and ROBUST. Large fill port up top is nice especially because I have a 37" spare and room is tight. Still clears though. Took about 4.5 qts to fill (75-90 FM). The flex pack gear oil is a must. P.S., F-you to AAM or GM or whatever dumbass thought it was cute to put red thread locker on each of the 14 f-ing bolts (& the 12 up front). A speed ratchet would be nice here. Cheers.

2022. Only 15,900 miles. Very clean underneath.

To bring it back to the conversation of trade-in, I have looked into the new truck market and there’s not a whole lot of reason to purchase. Ford has 0% financing for 60months on 2024 XL super duty’s and 3.9 for 60months on 2025. GM is offering 5.9% for 84 months for 2500’s and $1000 bucks. My truck is worth $16,000 trade in per KBB. I’ll keep it, repair it, and continue to run it.

I blame this forum. I went to a small shop to get a second quote on fixing my exhaust manifold leak (dealer wanted $1200 for both banks). They called me and said I have the AFM lifter tick. I thought I had heard it a few days prior when we were towing our camper. The shop quoted me $4000 to fix. I’m bringing it to the dealer to confirm. The shop wasn’t too familiar with the repair (they’ve done one), and they never took of the valve cover gasket to confirm lifter failure. I called around for the DOD delete and apparently it is illegal in Maine as of a 2021 law. Also illegal to sell a DOD deleted vehicle. I never knew this and I have only found 1 shop that would do it for $6500. If I do indeed have a collapsed lifter, I’ll share what the dealer is quoting.

It’s perfectly silent now. All the places or situations that would cause creaking is now gone. Dead silent. Before, just stepping down onto the running boards would cause a creaking sound in the rear. Now that’s gone. I don’t think it’s the actual leaf springs I think it’s at a bushing location. The work order said they replicated the noise on both sides with the right being worse so they got the okay to replace the springs. They got them in the next day and did them.

I am in Ontario. This truck was definitely a dealer order for inventory. I did take pictures of the rear spring pack of the old truck right before I traded it in so I could compare the difference myself as I wanted to know. They both appear to be a pack of four with an overload spring on the bottom. The additional 2 on top seems to be the major difference outside of what could be thickness, spring rate etc. that I have no idea about. The length and where the spring is wrapped at the rear anyways could be different as well. Both trucks are 2024 2500 Denali Ultimate. The 3/4 ton trucks seem to be a lot more prevalent here in Ontario than their 1 ton cousins.

Not worth it/not needed IMO.

Negative. RTV.

Unless you're buying it for looks, save your money.

Thanks for sharing that.

Same with our TrailBoss and new Subaru Crosstrek Wilderness. Note My and @txabCVT temps are much lower than @Grumpy Bear Mitsubishi Jatco with Redline CVT

I just had to post this https://imgur.com/gallery/they-are-thailands-young-wolf-yes-those-vocals-are-authentic-NHr2h8U#oMAnt2U

I just said CHECK IT OUT. We didn’t need WAR AND PEACE.

It would be when using bluetooth or apple carplay/anrdoid auto. It lowers once the call is picked up, not when its ringing. Or if you trigger voice commands for bluetooth or carplay/AA it lowers.

my 2020 rst has them

I'm sure you already ran a scan and cleared all codes? When I ran my battery down by leaving my dash cam on for two days without driving, the app alerted me to a myriad of issues. I recharged (and reconditioned) the battery, ran the diagnosis on my Autel, erased all codes - most were legacy. Afterward, all was good.

I don’t, but as soon as you start turning the adjustment it should be obvious which way it’s moving. Whenever I do an adjustment like this I count turns so I can put it back where it was if I decide I screwed something up.

Just FYI, I’ve got dementia and I use AI to trigger my memories and it does help a bit From research scientist to ****** that’s me

Still using Amsoil 5W20 OE in our 19 Santa Fe. Very happy with this oil, 5K-6K OCI's depending on weather and how I fell. We drive the same type roads as you I believe, dirt ,mountainous, hilly and freeway. I believe our conditions including winters colder than most is harder on oil.

So I got tagged with an email that someone is tugging my shirttail for attention or I wouldn't even know this thread existed. That's the thing about being on someone's "Ignore" list. They don't see your @******. But since someone thinks this needs my attention let me be clear....it does not. Now they know it too. No more than I'm going to give it in this post. I don't tell people what to do. I share an education. I share observations. l share measurements and data and what I find and online and what I buy that isn't protected. I share my thoughts about that data. I share perspective base on those factors. Sometimes I get pissy about someone telling me I'm not seeing what I'm seeing. Not hearing what I'm hearing, didn't measure what I measured, and that my work experience and education are invalid. I came to GM-truck.com to GET and education about the K2** truck bought and about it's care and feeding and if possible share the above paragraph. You know what I got... that isn't a question. It's a declarative statement. Nothing useful! I don't guess. I measure. I analyze data and graph it. I draw the conclusions the data indicates. I've been PROFESSIONALLY TRAINED to do this. I share until it becomes unworthy of that effort. That threshold has been met. I pay dearly for my education. Still do. I get ZERO help from those that could and don't or won't. Every mistake I make I pay for. I OWN my mistakes and share them in hopes of preventing others from repeating them. My return on that investment has been "Bait and Bat". Using those mistakes as ammunition to undermine an honest effort and discredit that information. And now I'm asked to pay for the mistakes of others. I what world would anyone think I should concern myself with helping anyone else? I have a program. It works. If I wanted someone else's results I'd follow their program. Oh,...wait....I did that and got BURNED. So...whatever this was...it isn't. i EXPECT your continued efforts to blow up every thread I start. So...the floor is yours.