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Probably 8-10in where I am, lots of blowing snow. South and east of me got 12-20in easy in places. I drove through Durand, WI this morning for work and they had at least 15-20in there as well. Tonights low is below zero again and then we'll see low 50's by the weekend lol.

Well my left arm, shoulder and hand are showing some improvement, YEA. My neck is a little better.

So today it was near 60F and rained. Quite the winds. 35-45 mph. Then tonight it dropped to a bit below freezing in about 30 minutes and the wind is now driving blizzard rate snow sideways which is predicted to continue for about 12 more hours. Ain't we having fun Ma?

That’s just Bruce being Bruce. He’s jealous he doesn’t have a transmission dipstick. His question didn’t even require an answer. having the dipstick is nice, youre right.

Installed the PPE transmission pan today when changing fluid and filter. Pretty nice piece. Although the gasket they supply is laughable compared to the factory gasket. I cleaned and reused the factory gasket. For the cost, supplying the factory gasket (or gasket of similar quality) would be prudent. I did not replace the filter seal, mainly due being uncertain how to effectively get a tool up there without damaging machined surface. If I wasn't laying on my back doing the installation, I may have tackled it. I also purchased their thermal bypass as well and installed it. Pretty straightforward install. I like that is has a magnetic trap that can be periodically removed and cleaned. I also installed the dipstick in the transmission as well. Finally, a suitable setup and am very happy to be able to easily check the fluid level and condition. Vehicle in question: 2022 GMC Sierra 2500HD with 6.6l gas Picture attached to show size difference between factory and aftermarket pan.

Rebuilding your engine would be cheaper than 11k. Even if you think it has rod knock or something like that. If the oil is a glitter factory, it's a spun rod/main bearing. If there is no glitter it's probably just a lifter that broke and it doing a lot of damage to the camshaft. Or find a used block for a few thousand. Spend a few thousand on delete parts and put it back in.

Only one of those data channels is used by the computer. Just because a PID/channels is available on that computer, that doesn't mean it will use it. You see it all the time when using tuning software too, there can be 4 channels that can all read the same specific thing but only one is used by the computer and the other channels is just weird skewed data.

We didn’t get a ton of snow, maybe 6-8”. But it’s blowing around everywhere at 35 mph++ so most surfaces either only have a dusting, OR 2 foot drifts. Not much in between. The snow we did get also happened to lay down on a nice layer of ice and freezing rain so the cleanup is taking awhile. 20 degrees and wind chills in single digits don’t help. Worst part is definitely the shock to the system since last Monday it was 72* and me and my son had a nice drive down to the creek in T shirts and shorts.

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We got a bit over 7 inches over the last 24 hours. Freezing rain under it and it cold and very windy yet today. But windchill is still above zero for now. Plow just came by and filled me in I'd bet @OnTheReel & @CamGTP got it worse! It's shovel'n time LOL

Because it will met the requirements of either; along with a few manufactures requirements. This might sound silly but it works a bit like; "Not all eggs are chicken eggs but all chicken eggs are eggs". In the oil universe this formulation is both chicken egg and egg in a universe where all eggs are chicken. Many SAE and API requirements are 'one directional'. That is they may have a minimum but no maximum or visa-versa allowing a single formulation to meet the requirements of many standards. Sometimes Lake makes a conclusion based on a test where the statistical variability is wider than the point he is concluding. It's like trying to assess two pitchers based on one throw of he ball for each and then saying short pitchers are better that tall ones. Few things are as precise in practice as the median would suggest standing on its own.

72 yesterday 20s today. Tomorrow morning 5 degrees (windchill -5) Fun times did get the car out Saturday at least

AMSOIL is every vehicle I own front to back. Let me know and I can get you a quote on an oil change. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-signature-series-5w-30-100-synthetic-motor-oil-asl/?zo=521390

I think....winter is finally packing its bags? After a hard freeze on Saturday night we were back to rain on Sunday and we should hit almost 60 this week.

Fluid film applied once a year or so will stop the rust

I suppose the level plug in the pan in sufficient. I would rather not get the creeper out and roll under the truck each time to check fluid. I'd rather have the capability in the engine bay when I am checking the other fluid levels/conditions.

There are plenty of really good people on here that can help with the rust. I assume you will be putting it on a rack to spray. Just in case nobody responds here are some ideas from Popular Mechanics. https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/g2312/best-liquid-rust-removers-test/ Most of these are about leaving the item in the solution for a few hours or overnight. Since you can't do that, my recommendation, as a novice, is the WD40 Specialist Rust Remover Soak. It is given 4 1/2 stars out of 5 on Amazon. Because you have frame area to spray I'd put it in a garden sprayer and give it a good soak and let it sit overnight. If needed, give it another soak. Afterwards, you could hit it with a long handle wire brush too. Hopefully, someone of the more experts on here will give you advice. As for the bumper cover, are all the plastic tabs difficult to get in or just one or two? What I would try if it was mine would be a 2x4 piece of wood, lay it on top of the cover and use a good heavy hammer, or the back side of a single blade axe. I hate to mention sledge hammer as that gives a mental image of whacking it real hard. BUT, a sledgehammer with just light taps (not hard) has the inertia to probably do the job. If you try this be sure to use a 2x4 board. I have a 20# sledgehammer and it has come in handy more times than I can count for just such jobs.

I feel if he hasn't figured it out in the 6 years since he posted it, he probably never will lol

How much consumption exactly? Might be worth running some Valvoline Restore and Protect first for about 4-5 oil changes, and then switch to an Amsoil, Redline, Schaffers, etc. Rotella T6 is a diesel oil, not a gas oil. So don't run that.

I have used AMSOIL for over 40 yrs in every new GM vehicle I have owned. Its in my 2024 Sierra Denali 3.0L (LZ0). You ARE NOT required to use dexos licensed oil. Only oil the MEETS the spec's and if it says so on the bottle then its true. I have never had to add oil when using AMSOIL. It typically has a much lower volatility rate. I have even had the dealer install my AMSOIL for the free new vehicle oil change and looked the other way when he charged GM for the oil he did not use. I demanded the empty bottles back as proof the used my oil.

Did some modding on my 2021. What yall think?? Paint: Had a local paint shop spray the engine cover along with the side covers Engine cover: 2015-2019 Cadillac Escalade engine cover GM Part # 12669503 Engine Cover studs: GM Part # 11611691 (you will need to remove the 2 10mm bolts from ur existing cover and replace them with the 2 studs. This holds the cover in place.) Engine cover Chevy emblem: All I did was use a heat gun to remove the caddy emblem on it and replace it with a Chevy center cap (found on eBay set of 4 was 20.00) used 3M tape to attach to cover. This will work on both 5.3 and 6.2! Any other question feel free to message me!!

That would be an issue no matter who made the transmission. I can see why it's done. The gas truck as one exhaust pipe so they cross it over to form the one. Personally two pipes would be nice but I would have to look to see if the fuel tank is in the way.