Leaderboard

Interesting question as this is an unusual product. It cleans, yes but it also has a decent HTHS viscosity. 3.3 cP last time I looked. Nearly meets the spec of an SAE 40 (3.5 min). Seems to have a decent add pack as well. So, especially in the case of quart million mile motor....keep using it. If the rings needed freeing at say 60-80 K then I'd use it until it stopped improving and see where I was. If the recovery was partial (uses a quart between 5K changes) then I'd stay with it. Some bore/ring damage has been done and a cleaner oil won't make it last any longer. If however it fully recovered (zero to less than a cup, by dipstick eyeball) over that same period of time AND I was inclined to run it until the cows come home then yea, AMSOIL SS or Red Line HP or one of the offerings from High Performance Lubricants like No-VII 5W30 would be on the short list. If I were just going to trade it then stay with the R&P. It will do just fine. Even for the next guy. You are also in a unique position as a Master Tech and better able to gauge the here and now condition as well as the likely future that I could from a distance. Trust your training. You're good at this. I'd add this as well. ANY oil is like a sponge. It will only hold what it will hold so even this super cleaner has a limit as to the miles that can be run on it and that varies with blowby and season.

My brother has improved a lot, my son got to talk to him. He was more coherent. Assembly line medicine is what I call it also, my 3 surgeries fit this description.

I'm keeping this simple and letting the pics do the talking for me. 2020 Silverado Trail Boss LT with 6.2. At about 97,500 miles on the odometer the serpentine belt was squeaking. Other than at initial purchase, the belt was been quiet. At purchase I had a "warranty repair" done where the dealer applied some belt dressing to quiet it down. At this point, even though the owner's manual says to place the serpentine belt at 150,000, I decided i was going to do it at 100,000. When I replaced my spark plugs and wires at 97,500 I also sprayed at stop squeal on the belt. It worked. At that time I noticed fraying on the belt edges. Yesterday I crossed 100,000 miles on the truck, so today I decided to replace both belts. The ac belt was flawless and didn't need replacing, but I figured I'd do both at the same time. In the first picture you'll see the old belt on the left and the new belt on the right. Both are OEM, so this is an apples too apples comparison. I did find fibers from the serpentine belt inside the alternator vent holes at the top. I also replaced the idler pulley. There was a mess of fibers twisted around the bolt on the backside of the pulley.

On a semi related topic my tires wore out on my 2019 right after I had a sudden loss of air pressure in one tire while driving down the road. Stupid GM!

Yep, that belt was wore out. Not sure what to be ashamed about.

I'm not Grumpy Bear, but yes. Stuck rings were and are still a problem before Valvoline Restore and Protect hit the market. R&P was released to try and resolve engines plagued by that problem. Newer stuff runs hotter at the top of the piston. That combined with fuel quality and fuel burn quality during combustion has contributed to higher odds of carbon build up at the top of the piston and the ring grooves. I can tell you first hand, R&P WORKS. I bought a 2009 Pontiac Vibe last year with the notorious oil consumer 2.4 2AZ-FE Toyota engine under the hood. Toyota had built these engines prior to 2011 with new (at the time) low tension rings but also had a questionable oil drain back passages in the pistons that would clog easily. I got the car with 234,XXXmi on it. It, no joke, used 1 QUART of oil in 400 MILES. I'm on oil change #4 of R&P. During the last fill, the consumption DROPPED to 1 quart in 2000 miles. I haven't put enough on the 4th fill to see if its improved further, but I suspect it will. I tried one other method prior to R&P, which was BG EPR (Engine Performance Restoration). That didn't touch the consumption one bit. So yea, its actually more important than ever to use a high quality oil from day one on a new engine, or if there is oil consumption present on an existing engine, using a product like R&P or the new Mobil 1 Advance Clean to try and resolve consumption issues and clean up the piston rings, ring grooves and oil passages. Question for you. If you were running R&P, would you just stick with it? Or run it long enough to see enough consumption reduction (lets say a quart in 3000mi or less than that) and then switch to something like Amsoil or another higher end product?

THE ECM should be CUTTING fuel to resolve the P0152 and P2099, those are RICH conditions. Although the P0152 isn't exactly a 'rich' condition, it's an unexpectedly high voltage. That makes me think the P0152 (and P2099) isn't necessarily an actual rich condition, rather a faulty pre-cat sensor reading too high. The previous, code of P0152 means the ECM saw a voltage coming from the pre-cat O2 sensor that wasn't just high as in rich, it was so high that it was "circuit high voltage" - or outside the expected range. The ECM is now seeing a low(er) voltage from that same sensor (P0174), a lean condition in combination with the post-cat sensor reading rich (P2099). Those two codes can't really exist together, the bank is either rich or lean - not both. So which Bank 2 sensor do you believe? The key here I think is the P0152, the pre-cat sensor is doing things it shouldn't, so I don't trust the P0174. Given that the two O2 sensors are disagreeing with each other, I am inclined to say the problem lies with one of them.

Just did a oil change on my high performance motorcycle which runs Amsoil for 3k although I change it sooner and no sparkle in the oil and I run it up to 12k plus rpm regularly not to mention it has to do double duty lubricating the clutch pack. The sheer forces must be extraordinary. If it’s good enough for that environment it’s way more than good enough for a lumber wagon truck that rarely if ever sees 5k rpm and it’s not dexos approved. Oh no.

the pre cat sensor is reading to much oxygen and the ecm is adding fuel to compensate which makes the post cat read rich. you either have an intake leak on bank 2 or possible weak injector which could cause the random missfires.could also be a valve problem, hook up a vacuum gauge and if it is steady around 18 to 20 then that would rule out the valves

This is going to effect 0W* and 5W* products the most in the general market but DEXOS has a bigger issue. No read across to PAO or POE/AN. It was a stupid rule when it was made and now it bites them in the ****. Group III has a viscosity rage as a base oil of 4 to 8 cSt. GTL is even lower. So a natural SAE 8 to SAE 20. Group II bright stocks range 4-30 cSt and POA 4-70 with mPOA reaching out much further. AN's run 5-20 cSt and Esters are dealers choice. DEXOS boxed itself out limiting base oil selection. Group II bright stocks won't meet their low temp or cleanliness or NOACK performance and Group's IV and V have very limited approval. Gen3 the most liberal. They know these last two groups outperform; just being stubborn on testing to their own harm. Admitting they are superior removes doubts of using boutiques that don't rely on that market. A genie that can't be put back int he bottle. What's going to hit everyone is the additives. And I don't have enough information to even venture a guess.

Just an FYI, I put in a half can of Seafoam in the oil and drove my truck about 50 miles and then changed the oil. I also went from 0W20 to 5W30 and barely hear my tick anymore.

https://www.theautopian.com/why-the-conflict-in-iran-is-changing-how-engine-oil-is-made-and-causing-oil-brands-to-get-upset-with-gm/

I guess so. My mother stayed overnight then to rehab. Good luck.

Wife had her hip replacement today. Went pretty good. This outpatient stuff is mind blowing. Like assembly line medicine.

You good sir, are incorrectly assuming it is I that neglected the maintenance on this vehicle. This vehicle is new to me, barely more than a month new to me at this point. Update on my ticking, it is official now that it is in fact cylinder #1 that is ticking. I changed the oil straight away with premium 5w30 full synthetic with the GM recommended PF63 AC Delco filter. Whomever previously changed the oil, put a crazy generic universal filter on it :-/. So, currently, it is just a ticking. I do not have a Service Engine throwing misfire codes. It seems to run just fine. I guess all I can do really is keep on the oil changes at 3k intervals with a touch of Marvels Mystery Oil every change and hope for the best?

I've tried that before, and never got a reply. GM has taught me that I can only count on myself to fix my vehicles. I wish GM would build better quality products. Vehicles are the 2nd most expensive item most people buy in their lifetime.

Our team is sorry to hear of this experience you're having with your truck. We recognize you're in need of assistance and we'd surely like the opportunity to help in any way we can. To get started, please send us an email with these details to [email protected]. Be sure to include "Transient/GM Trucks Forums" in the subject line of your outreach. We look forward to your message.

"for some odd reason that dude stopped dead in his tracks" "Why he did I have no idea." Thus the saying, "deer in the headlights". Glad you suffered no damage. I've never hit one, but have had 3 run into the side of my vehicle

I thought we were supposed to be driving not watching TV?