redwngr

On a 1500, it provides a 3950 FGAWR. and GM rates it for 40lb maximum of permanently attached snow plow mounting hardware and 500 lbs maximum of removable snow plow blade and blade hardware. Maximum plow weights based on a vehicle with average manufacturer option content and 150lbs each for driver and one additional front seat occupant. Additional equipment and occupants can reduce maximum plow weight. Rear compensating weight may be required to maintain front axle weight below 65% of total vehicle weight when equipped with snow plow, consult your snow plow manufacturer for specific compensating weight recommendation. (HD's are rated for about 100/1000 permanent/removable weight)

The 'low fuel' warning is just a suggestion that since you've been ignoring the fuel gauge that maybe, just maybe, now might be a good time to start paying attention. (and that you're on the last 50 miles, or there about) As fondupot pointed out, there IS a solution.

You can assume that if it makes you feel better some how, but you'd be wrong.

Check the vent hose for a low spot or twisted spot.

Do they work when you turn them on after a key start?

Pretty sure the starter can handle it.

If it has run for 1 minute and I recycle, I will end up with 11 minutes total, just like it did on my '11, my '10 and my '04.

I'm saying it's works the same as the GMT900's....

On all the ones I've operated, the 2nd remote activation has always added 10 minutes to the current time.

I can't believe that it helps their battery to do a cold start and a bit of idling.

Curious where to find the 3900F/4300R ratings? (highest I can find is 3950F + 3950R axle ratings, and 7600 max GVWR )

Sorry, I think it makes it look more like a Ford....

Guess that's why it's optional.

Read up on 'hypermiling'

The valve is to reduce the drone in V4 mode. Here is one way to lock it open, 'for test purposes'. Scroll down to the correct article: http://sandyblogs.com/techlink/?s=exhaust&search=Search

There are other jump packs out there. http://bestjumpstarterreview.com/

Depends on engine/trim. Battery, heavy-duty 720 cold-cranking amps/80 Amp-hr, maintenance-free with rundown protection and retained accessory power 1 - Included and only available with V8 engines. Battery, heavy-duty 730 cold-cranking amps/70 Amp-hr, maintenance-free with rundown protection and retained accessory power The 730cca/70amp-hr is standard on 2014 wt and lt with the 720CCA/80Amp-hr std on LTZ/HC optional with v8 on wt/LT. Why do you want to do this? What did I miss?

PDX NEW! Custom Sport Edition, includes (AQC) Appearance Package, (V76) recovery hooks, (TC7) body-color grille with chrome bars, (VB5) body-color front bumper, (VT5) body-color rear bumper, (CGN) spray-on bedliner and (RD2) 20" chrome wheels 1 - Requires exterior color (GBA) Black or (GBN) White Diamond Tricoat. Also includes (T3U) front fog lamps (DP9) chrome mirror caps, (E20) chrome door handles, (UD7) rear park assist and (B85) chrome body side moldings. 2 - Requires exterior color (GBA) Black or (GBN) White Diamond Tricoat. Also includes (DP9) chrome mirror caps, (E20) chrome door handles, (UD7) rear park assist and (B85) chrome body side moldings. 3 - Requires exterior color (GBA) Black or (GBN) White Diamond Tricoat. Note 1 is for LT (LT1) Note 2 is for LT w/Z71 (LT2) Note 3 is for both versions of LTZ

Was it cold when it happened?

I had to try it. It behaved normally when parked overnight in 4 auto. It was still in 4 auto when restarted in the am. Switched it back to 2wd without problem. Been driving 4wd gm's for 20 years, and this is the first one with the auto feature. I'm still not convinced I want to drive around with the (partially engaged) auto mode on all the time.

1500 and 2500/3500 frames are dipped in the same wax tank.

Always figured they were a waste of money. Won't order without it now.

Sonoma red, white diamond, summit white, Onyx Black, quicksilver and Prime-paint to match. Paint to match is $200 cheaper than the colored. ones.

Check accessories section at GM.com....

From GM Bulletin: Lamp Condensation A distinction is made between a lamp with condensation and a lamp with a water leak. Condensation appears in a lamp as very small droplets of water, a fine mist, or a white fog on the inside of the lens. It occurs when the air inside the lens reaches the “dew point.” This is the temperature at which the humidity in the air is cooled enough to become liquid. The most prevalent time of the year for fogging to occur is in the spring and fall. Most exterior lamps on GM vehicles are designed to expel accumulated vapor through a vent system. Although the vent system operates at all times, it is most effective when the lamp is on and the vehicle is moving. The amount of time required for the lamp to clear may vary from two to six hours. Customers with short commutes will experience a longer time to clear the lamp. If these conditions are noted, advise the customer that replacing a lamp assembly may not correct this condition. Typically, the condensation is located primarily in the lens corners (near the vents) and does not cover more than half of the lens surface. (Fig. 5) The condition should clear of moisture when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the vehicle is driven with the lights on. Fig 5 Water Leak A water leak is evidenced by numerous drops of water in various sizes, collecting on the inside surface of the lamp lens after the vehicle has been exposed to rain or a car wash. (Fig. 6) A water leak condition will cover more than half the surface of the lamp lens. In addition, there may be an accumulation of water in the bottom of the lamp assembly. This condition will not clear when the vehicle is parked in a dry environment, or when the vehicle is driven with the lights on. Fig 6 Lamp Service Tips When diagnosing or repairing a lamp for condensation or a leak: • Do not replace lamps for fogging. • Do not modify the lamp housing, such as drilling holes. • Do not use the incorrect bulbs for the application, which may damage the housing and connector. • Cold water in a car wash on a hot day may cause headlamp fogging. • Use care when removing and installing lenses to prevent damage to the housing and mounting tabs. For example, on the 2014-2015 Silverado 1500 and Sierra 1500 trucks, when removing and installing the tail lamps, do not apply excessive pressure to the lamp lens using your thumbs. Use your palms to pull or push the lamp. Applying too much pressure on the lens can cause the housing to crack behind the reflector field of the lamp. When servicing any exterior lighting assembly, be sure to transfer electrical connection seals to the new part. They are often on the body side of the harness connection, but may have stayed on the part being replaced. If not transferred to the new part, the connection may corrode due to water entry. Use of Non-GM Lamps Many aftermarket companies manufacture lamp assemblies that look very similar to the original equipment (OE). Non-OE lamps may be installed on vehicles as part of a collision repair. If these lamps are holding moisture or the bulbs are inoperative due to corroded electrical connections, they are not covered by the New Vehicle Warranty. Check for the GM trademark on the part label. (Fig. 7) Not all lamp assemblies currently have the trademark, but future assemblies will contain the trademark on the label. Parts without the GM trademark are not eligible for replacement under warranty. Fig 7