redwngr

2020 owners manual says: If the vehicle is left parked and running with the RKE transmitter outside the vehicle, it will continue to run for up to half an hour. If the vehicle is left parked and running with the RKE transmitter inside the vehicle, it will continue to run for up to an hour. The vehicle could turn off sooner if it is parked on a hill, due to lack of available fuel. The timer will reset if the vehicle is taken out of P (Park) while it is running. What it doesn't say is what happens if it's in Neutral with the parking brake on...??? Does it mean that the timer doesn't run if it's not in park? Anybody that needs/want it to idle longer tried that?

Order guide shows different add-on depending on the trim. Pop-up in 'build and price' should also change depending on what trim level is being used. Z71 Z71 Off-Road Package, includes (Z71) Off-Road suspension with off-road tuned twin tube Rancho shocks, (JHD) Hill Descent Control and (NZZ) skid plates (transfer case and oil pan) On work truck- Requires 4WD model. "4X4" decals on bed are replaced with "Z71" fender badge. Not available with dual rear wheels or (ZW9) pickup bed delete. On LT - Requires 4WD model. Includes molded in color grille with Z71 logo. Included with (PDZ) Z71 Off-Road and Protection Package. "4X4" decals on bed are replaced with "Z71" fender badge. Not available with dual rear wheels or (ZW9) pickup bed delete. On LTZ - Requires 4WD model. Includes Chrome grille inserts with Z71 logo. Included with (PDZ) Z71 Off-Road and Protection Package. "4X4" decals on bed are replaced with "Z71" fender badge. Not available with dual rear wheels or (ZW9) pickup bed delete. On HC - Requires 4WD model. Not available with dual rear wheels.

One of the computers manages the alternator based on a long list of things that the truck monitors. It will also change the engine idle speed if it decides it is necessary base on state of charge and loads. Not a simple voltage regulator that was used in the past. There are pages more info but: Electrical Power Management Overview The electrical power management system is designed to monitor and control the charging system and send diagnostic messages to alert the driver of possible problems with the battery and generator. This electrical power management system primarily utilizes existing on-board computer capability to maximize the effectiveness of the generator, to manage the load, improve battery state-of-charge and life, and minimize the system's impact on fuel economy. The electrical power management system performs 3 functions: • It monitors the battery voltage and estimates the battery condition. • It takes corrective actions by boosting idle speeds, and adjusting the regulated voltage. • It performs diagnostics and driver notification. The battery condition is estimated during ignition-off and during ignition-on. During ignition-off the state-of charge of the battery is determined by measuring the open-circuit voltage. The state-of-charge is a function of the acid concentration and the internal resistance of the battery, and is estimated by reading the battery open circuit voltage when the battery has been at rest for several hours.

That's interesting. On 2020 Silverado 3500 it's shows as optional all trims, and requires Z71. On 2020 Sierra 3500 it shows as 'included and only available with X31 on base/SLE/SLT trims. But it's standard on 2020 Sierra 3500 AT4 and Denali (and not available on dually Denali) I've had vehicles with it, have read the description of how it works. Haven't yet found a place where I needed/wanted it. Of course there must be those out there that can and do use it. You can download the 2020 sierra and/or silverado owners manual from GM website if you need details about how it works to assist your decision.

If set to do so in personalization menus, and if it's cold enough, the seat, steering wheel and defrost mirror/back window heaters will come on during a remote start. The indicator lights on the dash will NOT come on. The heaters will shut off and need to be restarted when the truck is switched from remote operation to operator operation (key or start button).

Engines only provide enough fuel to overcome the load/develop the horsepower to make the 'pull' they are currently being asked to make. Meaning, if it takes 50 hp to drive down the road at speed xyz, it doesn't matter what rpm its running, it still needs to make 50 hp. A rpm vs horsepower graph shows the max horsepower at each rpm. It can make any amount less than that, and will only produce the power necessary to maintain the speed. Point being, if you want to drive it and heat up the exhaust it needs to have a load applied. Like the boat pull you made. Running at high speed/low rpm isn't going to make as much heat as 'making it pull'. As you found high rpm, but low/no load isn't going to heat the exhaust the way you wanted. Might have better success with a service regen, which does a stationary regen, dumps excess fuel into the exhaust. (than the 10km 3500 rpm thing). Regen's, including the service regen, create exhaust heat, without having the engine having to generate big horsepower. What kind distances/speeds does the truck run in a normal day week? Is it always pulling the trailer ?

One gallon jugs from the dealer or 2.5 gallon jugs? 2.5 gallon jugs with the included flex spouts that the aftermarket should mean it can be added without spilling. (I have seen some GM 1 gallon jugs at a dealer that didn't have the spout supplied. Might be ok for a cruze -- but not for adding to the 6.6L) What 'miles to empty' is it warning you at? How much are you adding when you get the message. Should get first warning at 1000 mile range. That gives the next 2 fill ups to find a station that has fuel and def. before empty. (and even if it gets to empty, there is another 500 miles til the 65 mph / 150 kmh speed limitation) Both my DEF trucks have run about 1100-1200 miles per gallon of DEF. Usage depends on amount of fuel burned. Above is will averaging somewhere about 17.5 -18.5 usmpg fuel. Only 'GM' def I've run was what the factory/dealer put in at new, and the extra 2.5 gallon jug supplied with my 18 at delivery. The rest has been aftermarket 2.5 gallon jugs or bulk at a truckstop. Should use about 1.5 to 2 gallons of def per 100 gallons of fuel. So if working and getting say 10 mpg, then def usage will also nearly double from the number above.

There isn't. DEF is DEF. It's all made to the same ISO spec.

11+ brakes (front and rear) are significantly bigger than the 10 and earlier. Followed gm pickup and Dmax forums for a long time, and can't say as I recall complaints about front brake rattle. I think the service advisor is wrong about it being normal. If the service tech says the movement is 'normal' perhaps the brakes aren't the source of the noise?

I've had ball mounts rust into hitches (on a 1500) but the sleeves I've had for this and my '11 were so loose I'm surprised it's possible for one to sieze in place. Air hammer might help rattle it out? We've found lots of things over the years that didn't seem moveable with an f'n big hammer, but that the rapid and repeatable vibration from an air hammer would move. Might have to resort to using a hacksaw or sawzall type jigsaw to cut a slot in the sleeve. The box floor should have factory holes in it for drains. Might be that the liner holes line up with the factory holes in the box. Larger ones in corners and a small ones in the rib hollows, all near the front of box. If the concrete dried to the liner is really an issue -- I'd throw the liner out and get it a spray-in. (of course, it'll look like new!)

They've now announced the 3.0 will be available in the new FS suv's. All engines will have the 10 speed.

Have you tried your friendly GM dealer's parts department? GM had factory ones available for the srw (but not the dually) They were standard on 2018/2019 SLE/SLT/Denali 3500 B1J Wheelhouse liners, rear 1 - Not available with dual rear wheels. Deleted with (ZW9) pickup box delete.

Not sure if this is the same coastdown/decel noise, but there is a bulletin regarding one that can be documented at a slower speeds. https://gm-techlink.com/?p=12285 Transfer Case NVH Issue During Coast Down November 20, 2019 A transfer case noise, vibration and harness (NVH) concern may be found on some 2020 Silverado 2500HD/3500HD and Sierra 2500HD/3500HD models equipped transfer cases RPO NQF (Electric Shift Cont, Two Speed Transfer Case) or NQH (Active, Two Speed, Switch Activated Transfer Case). In some instances, a clunk sound may be heard during a coast-down event. The NVH condition may be the result of a misalignment between the transmission output shaft and the transfer case input. (Fig. 15) The misalignment could cause the transfer case shift collar to slip out of engagement. Fig. 15 If these conditions are evident, road test the vehicle up to 40 mph (64 km/h) on a smooth, flat road. Allow the vehicle to coast in Drive to below 10 mph (16 km/h), without using the brakes, and listen and feel for any bumps or clunk sounds from under the vehicle. Repeat these steps at least eight times in order to verify the condition. If the sound is verified to be from the transfer case, the transmission output shaft may be misaligned. It will be necessary to disconnect and reconnect the transfer case to the transmission. Misalignment Correction Remove the three transmission mount nuts, the rubber hose from the transmission crossmember, and the transmission crossmember. Also remove the transmission mount from the transmission and discard the mount bolts. Loosen all 12 transfer case bolts, but do not remove the bolts. It may be helpful to use a screw jack to raise and lower the transmission for better access to all of the bolts. With the bolts loosened, slide the transfer case rearward so there is a minimum gap of 1/2 inch (13 mm), but not more than 1 inch (25 mm). (Fig. 16) Next, slide the transfer case forward until it is contacting the transmission again. Fig. 16 Tighten the 12 transfer case bolts in the following sequence. Torque the bolts to 41 lb.-ft. (55 Nm). (Fig. 17) Fig. 17 TIP: When tightening bolts 10, 11, and 12 in the sequence, remove the bolts and clean the threads on each bolt and in the transmission with brake cleaner, and then blow out the hole with compressed air to ensure there is no fluid left in it. Failure to do this may lead to stripped threads. Be sure to use two new bolts when installing the transmission mount on the transmission. Reinstall the transmission mount nuts and the rubber hose to the transmission crossmember. Refer to Bulletin #19-NA-216 for additional information.

You should be able to override the anti-lockout - which normally checks that the number of fobs it detects in the vehicle has reduced (it does this to decide of you have taken the keys with you) . If lockout protection in effect, it should chirp 3 times. Lockout Protection can be manually overridden with the driver door open by pressing and holding 'lock' on the power door lock switch. Open Door Anti-Lockout If equipped, the Open Door Anti-Lockout is turned on and the vehicle is off, the driver door is open, and locking is requested, all the doors will lock and the driver door will unlock. The Open Door Anti-Lockout feature can be turned on or off. See Vehicle Personalization 0 157 There are other anti-lockout protection items outlined in the manual. My question is why not just use the fob, and lock it from in the house?

I've noticed that too. I also find that if I'm watching one of the fuel economy graph screens, and am running on a 'mostly level' cruise, that the instantaneous fuel economy will run somewhere around 10 mpg less than when not in regen. I don't track frequency anymore, but when I was they were about 400 mile intervals. More frequent than my LML, but they were shorter duration. Exhaust also sounds different, but that's tough to notice unless at parking lot speeds. Currently somewhere over 25,000 miles.

Weight is a factor when accelerating and when climbing. Aero (frontal area, and wind) is the factor all the time -- and this THE factor when on level cruise. Aero is also the reason speed is a big factor.

I suspect you are right. But doesn't apply to the HD's. (ya I know, this is the 1500 section) One of the mpg videos about the 3.0L was talking about the rating difference between the sierra and silvarado. part of the explanation is that the fed regs require the weight of an option be included for testing if the 'take rate' for the option is over a certain percentage. Sierra's typically sell with more content so higher weight used. That and slightly less aerodynamic and 3.0 in sierra ends up with a lower rating. I would guess the regs also require the weight used for the rating must also include a certain % of max fuel weight. From time in tier one auto suppliers I do know that if you can save them weight on any vehicle, it is a big deal. Better economy ratings sell vehicles(for some). There is also the fleet cafe thing that needs to be met.

Starting with the new chassis in 2011 long and standard bed trucks both came with the 36 gallon tank. (I went form a long bed '04 to a standard bed '10 and was surprised how much I missed the larger tank. They fixed that in '11 and I quickly upgraded. They '18 2500 till has a 36 in the 6.5' box and is the one being run in the previous post))

I'm with ya. Guess the poster doesn't want us to see them, or they would post in a format that most can see. Much easier for one person to change format prior to posting than for 1000's to go searching for a conversion program.

His original post says "100% stock, 22” stock tires"

In the photo he has the dash set for inch units. Easy to change in the dic -- I change mine frequently. It's displaying 2889mi (or about 4650 km)

On metric trucks, the painted faces on gauges are in Celsius, but the electronic stuff is still selectable for inch or metric units. He either prefers inch units (like me) or displayed the inch units since there are more inch unit vehicles represented on the forum. The fuel economy distance on metric trucks is 100 km. When switched to inch it still uses the same distance (100 km=62 miles) (other choices include 31 miles, which is 50 km, etc) With a denali dash, the electric gauge faces (instead of painted) will also switch to inch units. On the GM' trucks the inch unit displays use US gallons. They don't offer a choice for imperial gallons.

Anybody have thoughts on the wheels/tires on the Denali CarbonPro? It comes with (SGM) 22" high gloss Black wheels (and all season tires), and doesn't show options for 18 or 20's. AT4 CarbonPro still showsStandard (RT5) 18" machined aluminum with Dark Grey accents wheels )LT275/65R18C MT blackwall may be upgraded to (NZQ) 20" 6-spoke Carbon Grey painted aluminum wheels.

Good point. Could be the reason for humidity.

You're right, apple people always have been 'special'....