JimCost2014

If it is a 1500 (new body style for 1999), it should have a rack and pinion. I replaced the one on mine, it was a 2WD, so I can not speak for the 4WD version trucks.

$5.49 in south Seattle, have seen over $6.00 the closer you get to downtown. Pumps on the coast are shutting down at $100.00 for the fill up again.

1 quart in 4000 miles You are well within specs by GM standards, so they will offer no assistance. Since you do not drive a lot of miles, maybe start changing it every 3000-4000 miles and see if that helps. 5000 max.

Good to hear it was fixed, like your truck a lot by the way! I have a club here on the site for our 100's.

The factory Bridgestones are pretty good out of the gate, but when they get to a certain tread depth, the tire becomes terrible in the rain and snow. Just replaced the Duellers on mine with a set of Cooper AT3 S4's, very happy so far. Michelin Defenders repalced the Alenza's on our Tahoe, such a better tire.

Think @aseibel would be a great source to start with, does not have a Denali, but does have a snowplow on a 1500.

2nd guess: With what you have described here this is either due to a fault with the antennae itself ( even if it looks o.k. the antennae itself can fail internally ) or the XM radio receiver. Both will cause this fault here as I have seen before. What has to be done is to have the fault codes checked/read out of the radio and XM control unit using a compatible scan tool/computer that will plug into your vehicles data port that can communicate with all computers in your model. There will be at least one fault code set with this issue here that will help to diagnose and locate this fault. This has to be done with a fully compatible scan tool/computer that can read all the computers in your model. I would say most common for this issue that I have seen is the XM receiver itself as these tend to fail and require replacement usually by a dealer as the old receiver has to be deactivated by the dealer and the new receiver activate in your model for it to work.

Welcome to the site. Log into your XM account and send a refresh signal to the truck.

Can I tow a trailer with electric brakes without a brake controller? No, you cannot tow a trailer with electric brakes without a brake controller. A brake controller is an electronic device through which the driver of the towing vehicle can control the braking power of the trailer from inside the vehicle. If you have a trailer with brakes, you need a brake controller for the brakes to work. All tandem axle trailers must have brakes on at least one axle; some state laws may require both axles to have brakes. Lastly, all single axle trailers with a gross weight of 3000 lbs. Or greater must have an axle with brakes. How does a brake controller work? Brake controllers work through gain control. Gain is the measure of braking force that is sent to the trailer by electronic pulses when the driver depresses the brake pedal of the towing vehicle. The gain can be adjusted through the brake controller. It is recommended to adjust it before driving. Once the shifting begins, you can make fine adjustments to ensure a proper towing experience.

AFM delete, lifter and camshaft Driving with a broken part will make this decision a lot easier.

Pretty common with the last three generations of trucks. Just "pop" it open, cycle them 3 times with the switch, and they will catch up with the gears inside. This issue used to be covered in the owner's manual.

You are very welcome. It is a well traveled truck, sold new in Canada, shipped to Ohio, and now in California. My biggest concern would be, why was the camshaft replaced, along with plugs, and wires? Was there a lifter failure, bent pushrod, or what type of failure took out the camshaft? And why were those parts not listed as being replaced?

Welcome to the site. Can they provide service records, just to see where you are at on some of the major fluid changes, and OCI's. Also, can your provide a link to the truck? They may just be quoting tow ratings for the non NHT trailer package.

You are very welcome.

I would have it checked out, same age as mine and I am planning on replacing my this fall. It will probaly come back as good, but the factory ones don't have a very long life.

Age of battery in truck? When they start to fail, you will get random electrical issues.

That truck has a "happy plate" on it, just purchased. Maybe try to track it back to the selling lot, and get some info on the truck.

Sorry, did replace, or attempted to replace? Have you checked for stored codes? May be one linked to the HLS that needs to be cleared.

Have you thought about replacing the hood latch? It is common for the switch on it to fail.

Welcome to the site. My guess is you have a broken/chaffed wire in loom running through your center console. You can access it by opening the lid, runs through the hinge on the drivers side.

Lights will always be on with a Canadian model.

Put the front tires on the back until you see snow, lots of tread left, except in that one area

Welcome to the site. I know it will revert back to the last setting that was used. Just a guess, turn it off (the switch) with the engine running, drivers door closed, then shut off engine, take key out, open drivers door, step outside, close door. Then see what happens when you enter the truck again.

Granted you won't be able to say in a conversation (I have ??'s) but you can always round up Good advice, think this concept has been used by men to describe many "things" for a long time