Bought mine with 1640 miles on it, just turned 75K. Got another year of payments, and not looking for another car/truck payment for a while, so I'll see how long this thing will last me.
Tell me how this makes sense... I stopped by the dealer on the way home yesterday, and the seal is covered under the power train warranty. Good news. The wheel bearing is NOT covered under the power train warranty. Not so good news. Don't quite get that one, and even the service people were kinda stumped by that one. Looks like I'll be doing this myself at home. Thanks everyone for your info and input.
Thanks everybody. Doesn't sound too difficult if it's not covered by any kind of warranty. With 75k on it, I know I still have a little power-train warranty left, so I'll at least call the dealer. Thanks kickass audio, I'll check and see if it's covered. WTH, can't hurt to try.
Well, I was under the truck the other day, changing the lube in both axles, and the right rear backing plate looks like it's covered with lube/dirt from a leaking seal. Is that a correct assumption? How tough is it to change these yourself? With all the work I've done on cars/trucks over the years, I've never messed around much with differentials. If I have to change this out, bearings will be done at the same time. Any guestimates as to what a shop would charge if I don't want to do this myself?
My experience and 2 cents... My LED fiasco HERE. I bought the Morimoto bulbs. Good quality LEDs, crappy quality reflectors courtesy of GM. While the LEDs are whiter, they don't shine down the road as far as the SilverStar bulbs I had previously. I had to aim the housings down a turn and a half because I kept getting flashed by others, and that just made them worse. Even at the same setting as the SilverStars, they did not shine down the road as far. Follow the advice I was given - get yourself a good pair of projectors from a 14-15 LTZ and then upgrade to the LEDs and don't make the same mistake I did. Waste of money without the projector housings.
I've read a bunch of different posts on transmission issues and the like, but I'm simply looking to do a fluid and filter change. My truck is a 2015, 5.3, 6 speed - I'm assuming it's the 6L80, is that right? I know it takes Dex VI, just not sure how much. 75k, and it's not been changed yet. Plan on doing both diffs, transfer case, and transmission. I've got Mobil 1 75/90 for both diffs. I know I need 2 qts of Dex VI for the transfer case, just not sure how much for a fluid/filter change for the transmission. I'm assuming synthetic is preferred for the transmission and transfer case?
I'm running the same size, but I did a 1.5" level shortly after getting the truck, with no difference in ride quality over non-leveled. After the stock Goodyears wore out, I replaced them w/ Cooper Discoverers in 276/65R18. Only a couple of pounds heavier than stock, so very little hit to gas mileage, and still rides good. WORLD of difference in traction on wet roads and light mud over the stock tires.
No offense taken. I appreciate other's peoples input, even when it's because of my ignorance. I WILL say that I could have SWORN that I read that they were a standard replacement for regular halogen headlights. That's the only reason I bought them. Now I feel like a complete idiot. I admit it - I f'ed up. I like to think I'm pretty good about this kind of thing, but not this time. Allow me to bow my head in shame for a minute... You guys are right, they are whiter than the SilverStars, but not the same distance. Well, not to figure out what to do. Maybe I can find a set of projectors somewhere that won't break the bank...
One thing I did notice - you could actually rotate the LED within the mounting flange (the part with the 3 tabs that lines up to the headlight housing) after the flange was attached to the headlight housing. I rotated mine so that the LEDs are at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. Seemed the give the best light pattern. Do that before you put the caps back on. Ask me how I know...
Yep, surprisingly. They came with the input adapters (the large gold boxes in the 2nd picture of post #4) which fit inside the stock housing. Not sure that I needed them, but I also ordered the OPTIONAL DRL ANTI-FLICKER LINKS, the 2 extra harnesses in the same post. Hooked them all up, and they all fit inside with room to put the cover back on. Nothing sticking outside.
One LED in and one halogen. Quite the color and brightness difference. Another pic w/ the Morimoto LED fog lights on as well. All of the pieces fit inside the stock headlight with room to spare, and the stock cover fits over the bulb as well. Funny hearing the fan running on the bulbs. You only hear it when the headlights are on and the truck's not running. Color of both the LED headlight and fog are almost exactly the same. Now to go aim them...
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