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Severado

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Everything posted by Severado

  1. You have the same upper control arms as I do. What are you trying to accomplish with your lift? 33" tires? Larger? Or just a decent size lift...
  2. You should look into a spindle lift for a 2WD truck. Achieves lift and preserves good angles. I'll link a couple places for you. Maxtrac Suspension CST
  3. 285/65R18 (32.6") or 275/70R18 (33.2"). Others will chime in, but I'm going for safe here.
  4. I have a Hellwig rear sway bar and my truck still vibrates. Corners and tracks better when accelerating but that's about it. And they can't just cancel your warranty over aftermarket wheels, tires and exhaust. Please Google Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act. They have to prove these mods are the direct cause of your issue. Also judging by this thread and others spanning SUV models on this truck platform, GM can only try to deny service.
  5. Better yet.....The tread on your all season tires is too aggressive. Uh yeah
  6. GM should take care of it. No doubt. A small design update would allow this actually. Expand (round) the wheel wells or extended struts(it's not like they don't have a deal with Rancho already), 32.6 to 33" all season tires standard on stock wheels from 17 - 20. It won't fix the problem, but cancelling out the feeling is not all bad.
  7. I am a poor sap. But I'm not sticking with this truck because of loyalty. I like the truck other than the obvious. I've only had it for about​ a year, and trading out means taking a hit. After 7 visits to the dealer, I know this problem is mine, because they treat me like it is. So patience and trying to work out the kinks is all I can do. And eventually one of us will find something that makes the shake tolerable. A taller sidewall on 18s has been better than the OEM 20s for me. Next are high quality dampeners. Baby steps man. Like I said before. This thread is full of possible remedies. I'm working on mine.
  8. There are many possible remedies in this thread. Only real fix is to move on. Otherwise do what you can to mitigate the symptoms. Better shocks, bigger sidewalls, high quality driveshaft, gears and axles. All costly and no guarantee of satisfaction. I'm real fkin' stubborn. Going to stick with this truck until GM or I fix it.
  9. Short version, the current L/F and R/F need to be replaced. 28 and 20 RFB is too high. They should have placed​ the L/R and R/R in the front. Lowest RFB tire with the driver.
  10. Have a look at this thread. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/184760-2015-differential-gear-whine-at-hwy-speeds/page-8?hl=pinion%20preload
  11. Torque converter + driveshaft + axle(s)​ + always engaged brakes = vibrations. So you take away the constant V8/V4 switching and engaged brakes. It feels normal-ish. You think what's left of the vibe you feel is road feedback. It's not. The culprit for many of us will be the pinion preload. This was discussed almost a year ago in another thread. GM hasn't addressed it yet. And they won't.
  12. Watch this.
  13. Your tires only need to be road forced to their spec. After that, they have to prove your tires are actually the problem. Magnuson-Moss Act. The burden is on them. You can have upgraded shocks, a sway bar, tires, etc. They are avoiding any kind of discovery diagnostics and placing blame on the customer. It's BS, call GM or Chevy customer service, open a case, and gripe away.
  14. Good luck.
  15. Keep your Ram. Take another look when the 2019 drops.
  16. Unfortunately we all find this forum after the exchange window expires. The buffeting issue is not a myth. Sorry to hear that you are experiencing this.
  17. Same thing I asked. After some research I found out that the factory coils are 550 lbs./in. spring rate. So it's a matter of coil length and spring rate. I should just call Eibach and ask. Edit: Many of the popular coilovers use (up to 3 inches of lift) an Eibach Coil-Over Spring, 3.0 in. Inside Diameter, 14 in. Length, 700 lbs./in.Spring Rate. They cost around $100 each. I happen to have a spare set of factory coils, so I'm going to measure them this morning. So our factory springs measure around 12 in. length wise. That's why RHA struts support up to a 2 inch lift without a problem. I'm going to add a video that helps explain it all.
  18. I wouldn't bet on a swift resolution unless it's just tires. If you have Goodyear tires, press them for Michelins. RFB is a band-aid for iffy tires. Can you get your 2014 back?
  19. New u-bolt kit and Hellwig 7735 Anti-sway bar installed.
  20. What is the deal with the leaf springs? Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk
  21. I finally dropped the stock 20s. Got a ridiculous deal on a set of 18" wheels in December and went with 275/65R18 tires. The extra sidewall helps with smoothing out the ride. Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk
  22. Driver's side front or rear? Front could be the strut. Rear could be the leaf springs. You may need a second set of ears.
  23. Having a leveling kit doesn't get them off the hook. Blaming tires is an excuse. "In spec" is also an excuse. Aftermarket stuff doesn't allow them to skirt the warranty. They use this wording to turn you away. It's not like you turned the sheet metal inside out.
  24. I read about the new steering bushings in another thread. Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk
  25. I have a question about coil springs with the 5100s. What if I didn't want to use the factory coil spring? Can you recommend an alternative? Maybe Eibach and what *** lbs/in and spring rate. Thanks
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