OP - First think you need to know is: Are you keeping cylinder deactivation or not? If you are keeping it then be ready for the helicopter chop if you go with a system that eliminates the valve. If you will turn it off and never go back then any catback will work, no chopper noise.
Look into new take offs from an AT4 GoodYear Wrangler Trail Runner AT in 33" size (275/60/20) Most of the AT4 guys will upgrade to a more aggressive tire so you can find great deals on local forsale sites. I got a set with 600 miles on them for $400. Great looking tire as well, i havent put them on yet, not till this late fall.
I 'll update mine: I was inthe same boat, nothing was working and after the first incident it happened again, this time going 60+ in evening commute on a 4 lane highway and of course i was on the left lane. The truck just cut off, lights and all, i had to coast to the right lane and my 2 yr old was in the truck. Scary situation. What fixed the issue for me was me adding a ground cable from NEG battery to the ground bolt next to the brake booster. This basically gives you a second ground cable and no issues since.
My suspicion is the torque converter because all this is very similar to what I experienced and I was chasing a misfire, when all along it was the TQ slipping. That is covered till 120k miles so I suggest you have the dealer take a look, pay the $200 diagnostics fee. If it's the TQ you won't have to pay that fee. Mine went about 30k after getting it flushed Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
A lot of people also use PowerStop z36 kit for trucks, including me. I have no complaints and you can find it in many places online. I got mine from RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/gmc,2014,sierra+1500,5.3l+v8,3294374,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824 They have the AC delco one you speak as well, they both should be good for what you want.
I cant remember what kit the shop got but you tube the delete and you will see how its done. There are few ways to do it. Delete means the trans fluid circulates and starts to get cooled soon as you start the truck vs reaching the thermostat temp and then circulating.
I had mine deleted when it was rebuilt and it runs nice and cool, its even fine in north east winters.I had no issues, been over 12k miles now. You can DIY it (youtube it) or there are delete kits out there for around $100 which is what i got.
Replace all plugs and wires if they are stock, at that milage you should have changed them already. Then run SeaFoam FUEL INJECTOR cleaner, not the seafoam cleaning procedure but that will also help you im sure. SeaFoam fuel cleaner in those small bottles is what fixed my clogged injector misfire issue, no other cleaner helped. Run 2 per tank at least 2 tanks.
No, Your trans blew because of the crappy Torque Converter issue. Mine went at 120k miles on my 2014. About 30k miles after getting a dealer trans flush done. Have you gotten that service before 160k?
I installed mine on the 2014 and im not happy at all. Besides needing to adjust to get the best possible beam pattern, the light output is almost half of what i had with Morimoto HID setup. I will be returning them and going back to the HID Setup. Im sure its the projectors in the 2014s that don't play well with LED bulbs. High beam was also weak. With the HIDs i can see a 1/4 mile down on a very dark road, its crazy bright.
Usually the battery neg going down behind the passenger side wheel area goes bad internally, don't ask me how, no idea. So to be safe I added that second battle cable as negative. It's just same size as the original one, not sure what size it was. Go to a parts store and they should have 5ft or 6ft sections available with ends crimped already. Very simple install, run it along the firewall area. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
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