swathdiver

I remember a review of a 2013 Sierra Denali. The reviewers complained about it but it did everything they asked it to do off-road. Years later, they tested a Trail Boss. They complained about this one too but it did everything asked of it out in the field and while towing. Over time it grew on them and they came to appreciate it. My old Yukon XL goes wherever it's pointed.

Normal for hard surfaces. Don't use it on hard surfaces.

Well, since you know more than both dealerships, just pull the heads and fix it yourself.

JL1 is the Integrated Trailer Brake Controller. Integrated means that the wiring harness is different as well as the programming for the ECM, BCM and EBCM among others. JL1 equipped trucks also include a Solid State Relay and the Integrated Trailer Brake Control module. All you've done is buy the switch. Now, this is the case for my older GMT900. I'm pretty sure this still applies to the K2s, my memory is failing me. The T1 guys, can just plug it in and it works if memory serves. So for you Ryan, look along the driver's side frame for this:

Well, it might have been unplugged. The sensor goes around the battery cable just inches off of the battery and if disconnected will run the alternator at full capacity like the old days.

Mine gets its best gas mileage with a mix of E85 and gasoline or E15. Sixteen to twenty-two percent nets my best gas mileage and lowest cost per mile to operate. After you play with running full dosages of E85, you may want to try that out. Mine loves FlexFuel, like cheap race gas, the motor loves it.

Look up RVC, Regulated Voltage Control and EPM, Electronic Power Management. It is normal and is what kept your original battery alive for so long. See page A18 in this guide: https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/487/2013_LD_ElectricalPickupsChassisCabs_100713.pdf The whole thing is worth a read too. What motor is in yours?

What's crazy is that you bought that truck and didn't read the owner's manual for a couple of years.

If you have to replace either door switch assembly, it will have to be programmed to the vehicle if it is new. If buying used, get one with the exact same options as your CREW CAB, lol. There's a company on Ebay that sells the factory switches in white boxes, from same factory in Mexico that makes them for GM for about $7 each.

Well, you could either purchase the dealer level hardware and software and see if you can fix it yourself. Contact WAMS (White Automotive) and see what they suggest. As for your tune stored in the ECM, you should be able to save it with an AutoCal or something similar. I'm not up to date on K2s but you can check BlackBear's website.

Change the shock on that side. If you still want to wrestle with the dealer, pick another one.

The culprit for that symptom was the driver's side temperature actuator which is on the bottom of the passenger footwell. The only way the relearn really works is with a Tech-2 or other bi-directional tool. Since you replaced the control module, it must be programmed to your vehicle. If you bought a Tech-2, you can do these two functions yourself (will need a subscription to ACDelco's TDS system ($40 for 2 years)) and probably come out less or near so than a trip to the dealer and have a tool that can see and test and program everything on your vehicle. If you had had the Tech-2, you would have pulled up the HVAC code for the actuator and not had to guess and spend money on all of the other parts.

Well, have you had a look a the sway bar bushings in the front and rear? Checked over the bushings in the control arms on both ends too? Ball joints? At twelve years old my control arms bushings have some dry rot and am replacing them now. Replaced the sway bar end links last year as they had rotted and fallen away. Generally speaking, rhythmic shaking at certain speeds is driveline related, the tires may need re-balancing or a caliper might be sticking and or something is amiss with the differentials or shafts like the u-joints. If you feel it in the steering wheel, it's usually up front and feeling it in the seat means back aft most of the time.

Are the tires LTs? Has the sun been shining on the tire closest to it for a while right before you get in? My home faces east so the left side tires get the most sun as the truck faces west. It takes a little while for them all to heat up and even out, about 5 minutes or so depending on the weather, then they are smooth as silk.

It very likely will with proper maintenance. More than a few of the older generation motors are running just fine with over 400K miles on the clock.

Start sending in periodic samples of the transmission fluid to Blackstone Labs for analysis. Change your fluid every 36K to 45K miles.

Trading one problem for another. Tundras have their own issues too. Run the severe service schedule for maintenance and it is very likely you will experience years of trouble free service.

Been doing the same for decades. My Yukon was like a bucking bronco on the road until all the fluids were changed and she settles down and drove so much smoother. My interval is intended to be 36K miles.

Our Sierra came with a Truxedo roll up cover. Been on for about ten years and still looks great and doesn't leak. It's the Lo Pro model I believe.

I think most people on here have opinions in the opposite. When you think of these things that bother you, always consider the designer's intent first. They designed the vehicle to satisfy a wide range of tastes and preferences and for the most part, knock it out of the park the first time.

Well most folks don't think they need to follow the severe service schedule. The 2016 owner's manual says to change the fluid at 45K miles under that schedule. Had they followed that, chances are their transmissions would still be original.

Nope, it's not. The 6L80 is a very reliable transmission when operated within its range of performance and with the fluid changed every 36-45K miles. It has the potential to last even longer with a performance tune. Are you seriously going to buy a vehicle based on the failure rate of a transmission???

The 2014 CC Short Box 4x4 as you first describe says 9,500 pounds in the owner's manual. Just as you wrote. Right below that in the owner's manual, same configuration with 3.73 gears (NHT Package) it is 11,800 pounds. The NHT package results in a higher GVWR and GCWR, higher capacities for the front and rear suspensions and springs, more leaves in the rear spring packs and 3.73 gears. If you can find one not all used up, get it!

Absolutely safe. I doubt that the "disabler" will cure your oil pressure being low at times. To see if the pickup tube o-ring is bad, add two quarts of oil and idle the engine, if the pressure comes back up you know it's the o-ring. There is a bypass in the oil pan that can go bad though we rarely see that. Same for the o-rings that seal the AFM solenoids in the VLOM to the AFM towers in the lifter valley. The screen under the oil pressure sensor can become clogged and should be cleaned or replaced and if "dirty", will show low oil pressure on the gauge, inexpensive fix.

E-Trailer lists a whole bunch for 2013s. Not sure why they'd be different than a 2012 as they are no different.