Everything posted by kevinfranklin
kevinfranklin replied to Shredzy's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraSo none of these pictured so far appear to be the latest matte black Aeroskin II I saw in a local shop that has an "extra" ramp-ridge across the front..........that supposedly helps to push bugs/rocks/crap up just a little bit more to avoid the windshield. Anyone have one of those and like it or hate it?
Carl, you and I have PM'd back and forth a couple weeks ago, and I'm still interested......... but was wondering if you ever filmed a video of the actual gauge face swapping process. I just want to make 100% sure I'm comfortable with tearing into it before ordering. BTW, did you post pic's of the carbon fiber gauges installed? That's the style I was leaning towards. thanks!
So did you put anything (PD glossifier, clearcoat) over the Plasti Dip after you were done with the color? I finally got to working on my emblems and didn't add anything as a final coat. Now it seems like if I rub the wrong cloth over them, they might get fuzz stuck in the dip, but they're still just a few days old, so maybe they'll continue to harden?
Looks like you took the whole assy out, so was that difficult? And I think what you're saying is you removed screws (2 of them?), and added in a washer in-line, between the 2 black sections.....is that right?
So, whoever has added vinyl to their plastic trim pieces, any suggestions/hints as to how to make good, wrinkle-free corners? I used heat, and had to experiment around to try and figure out when to use heat, where to use it, etc. If I used too much, the vinyl would get flimsy and wrinkle. If it was too cold, I couldn't "work it" enough to work out the wrinkles. Any and all suggestions are welcomed!
So what's been your experience with the Plasti Dip on the front tie? Does it clean off ok, or have nicks/cuts in it from road debris that will require a re-apply? Same question for the side trim, although I bet that lasts a lot better, due to it's location.........
So has anyone found a good video of removing just the silver trim piece that goes AROUND the side air vents on a 2014+ ? One of Jorge's vid's mentions it in passing, but I'd like to remove it to vinyl wrap it, but don't want to pop out the side/fuse panel, then pop out the entire vent assy, only to find I can't separate JUST the silver outer part so I can wrap it easily. I also would rather not try to vinyl it in place......... Thoughts or suggestions?
Man, I wish mine was as accessible as yours appears to be! I used this same screw in this same location, but on my 2017, I have MUCH less "access" to get the nut on the screw. So I had to simultaneously: 1) hold the valve in just the right open position so I could turn the screw 2) hold the nut in the perfect orientation with some needle nose pliers 3) turn the screw until it caught the nut.
Ok, so it's basically "locked down" in the highest/most-towards-your-seat position, it sounds like? I have mine all the way out/away (I'm 6'5") so will this method probably not do as much for me?
So the tie you added is the black one that runs "up" and over the metal hanger, and then over and around the entire housing? And does this still allow the pedal fore/aft positioning, or do you not have the adjustable pedals?
Nicely done! So did you just apply it to the cleaned pieces, or did you use heat at all? And when "popping" the trim pieces off, did you use a plastic tool and just start at the bottom (less visible if damaged) and work your way around each one?
Yeah, I'm interested in any additional "solidifying" or anchoring of the whole accelerator parts to whatever they can be anchored to. Any more input, pics or comments on what this might actually be referring to??
kevinfranklin replied to VdellaV's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraOne of those Magic Erasers sold by the bald guy with an earring and white tee shirt works pretty well too.
I REALLY like that CF, so are there any good videos out on YouTube (or maybe a build thread on this forum?) about how to remove the various plastic parts? I looked and found a couple that didn't impress me, but could probably eventually find several that cover everything I'd like to remove and cover.
I'm new to debadging, so is there a good "how to" thread on this forum, or should I just trust YouTube? Mostly just carefully prying off the letters and then it's on to tackling the adhesive, either by careful peeling, or that wheel-thingy?
kevinfranklin replied to Bigmoore's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraSo for single chip repair, did you use the squeegee or just the dab-and-wipe method? I'd envision the squeegee eventually getting the level of the paint "even" with the rest of the surrounding paint (after a few coats)...... but then when you wipe the blending solution on it, maybe it would still remove some of what's in the chip, leaving the chip edges.
Wondering if anyone has recommendations as to a good seal......anything to look? And do they affect performance of the tailgate at all? Do they make the gate harder to close, etc? I presume they're all stuck on with tape, correct?
Well, my vehicle won't ever go thru a car wash unless my wife gets really mad at me and uses it as revenge. ;) I do like the Aeroskin II's matte texture that won't show every chip and impact that occurs to it.......
So is there a video somewhere that shows what's involved? I'm very interested, but don't want to "tear into" my dash too much if there's a risk of any damage or things not quite fitting back the way they do now.
This was the most recent discussion I could find about rock/bug deflectors.......... I'm looking to get one, and am leaning towards the AVS Aeroskin II, which is the matte/textured one for my black truck. It attaches with the 3M tape, and has the "new" lip on it that supposedly pushes everything a bit higher so they miss the windshield. Anyone have experience with it? Any concerns? Any stellar recommendations for others? I don't want a faux-chrome or painted one that will chip.....
I recently installed my Lomax, and I'm very pleased so far! Summary: Customer service: 1 of the rails had a slight scratch in it, I called them, and they sent me 2 ENTIRE rail assemblies! Install: very easy. I'm used to having to tweak a cover's rails, etc to get them to work properly initially, but this one latched perfectly the first time. Look: very low profile, super slick looking. The powder-coated (?) aluminum panels might scratch, but no issues so far. Folding: unlatch works easily, and panels fold easily too. Latching the fully folded group to the front works ok, but could be improved a bit. I do wish I could "hinge" the folded group of panels up vertically like the BakFlip, but that would prob change their design too drastically. Weight: I have a full 6.5' bed, so when I remove the Lomax it's a bit heavy/awkward to handle alone, but I don't fully remove it often so no big issue. Leaks: no leaks yet, but only a couple average rain storms so far. Cost: affordable, all things considered. $715 delivered (TruckAlterations.com)
kevinfranklin replied to Sierra Dan's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraRode with my factory Rancho's for 8,000 miles. This is my first truck, and was rather surprised at 3 things: how much I could feel on the road (small bumps, ridges, pennies, etc) , how hard they hit over speed bumps and the like, and also at the amount of "float" I'd feel at speed over bumps on the highway. So I upgraded to Bilstein 5100's for $320(left stock rake, though) , and am happy with the results. I don't drive offroad much, but they handle all terrain that I encounter much better. Bumps, holes, ridges, etc. Smoother, more "grounded," and feels safer. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
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