I have a '19 LTZ CCSB (4500 miles) 4x4, 6.2/10-speed, performance upgrade pkg., max towing pkg., and factory 20" A/T tires. Gets around 16 mpg around town in traffic, and 21-22 out on the road. Averaged 19.8 mpg on recent 120 mile round trip with mixed driving on rolling hills (60 miles of back road driving, about 15 miles of 50-55 mph, and fairly heavy traffic the rest of the way). Truck runs on Shell premium, but living in the NE we get crappy "winter gas" that hurts mileage. That same exact trip with "summer gas" averaged 21.2 mpg. If you like to hammer the throttle, the mileage will suffer in a hurry. Same goes for remote starting. My wife averages about 3-4 less mpg than I do, no matter what the conditions are.
It looks like you are already too close to the limit of your truck, even without knowing exactly what the trailer would weigh fully-loaded. That 750 lb. tongue weight does not include the weight of the weight-distributing hitch you'll need for towing that trailer, and it may not include full LP tanks, batteries, added options, or water (the manufacturer's website should provide those details). The WD hitch will add at least another 50 lbs. to the tongue weight. What is in the front of the trailer? Storage bin? Bedroom? Kitchen? Holding tanks forward of the axles? Winter clothes/coats are heavy, food can be heavy (avoid glassware or jars), and water weighs 8.34 lbs./gal. Remember, anything placed in/on the trailer forward of the axles will affect tongue weight. I've been towing for over 40 years, and I would never consider towing a trailer that size/weight with the truck you have. Since you already have the truck, and don't want to replace it, you need to reconsider the size of the trailer. There are plenty of really nice light-weight travel trailers in the 30' range that would provide ample space and comfort, even for extended stays. Make sure that the GVWR of whatever trailer you decide on, along with whatever you plan to carry in the truck, will leave you with a nice safety cushion, weight-wise. Never push the limits of safe towing, and make sure you have your WD hitch properly matched and set up for the truck/trailer combo. Also, carefully read the towing section of your manual (IMPORTANT). Adding springs, air bags, etc. DO NOT increase towing capacity. The factory ratings are what you go by, and you will be personally liable if exceeded and something bad happens. The winter RV shows will begin making the rounds after the first of the year. They are better than going to dealerships for a first look. Better prices, too. Most RVers also find that they don't need to carry everything they initially thought they would, so you may just find that a 30' would work well. We haul a 29' with one slide-out, and it's fine for three adults and two cats, even for a month at a time.
Towing 29' camper (6,000-6,500 lbs.) with fully-loaded truck (camping/towing gear, 3 adults, 2 cats). LTZ Premium with 6.2/10-speed and Max Towing with 3.42 gears. In five trips of mixed driving, the truck consistently got between 11.2-12.3 mpg. All five trips consisted of a mix of stop & go traffic through large congested areas, rolling hills, and some sections of 55-65 mph highway mixed in - not the best conditions for good mileage. The truck still has less than 4k on the odometer, so I would imagine towing mileage will get slightly better once it gets fully broken in.
Hitch setup and/or weight distribution is your problem. Your explanation could also be better. You say that the trailer tracks straight, but the truck floats all over. How does the truck float and the trailer track straight when they are connected? Explain "floating". Do you mean that you are constantly correcting the steering? If so, you probably have too much tongue weight, and you are taking weight off of the truck's front axles, reducing steering traction. Too little tongue weight will cause the truck and trailer to sway. You also don't mention how much the trailer weighs, or what is loaded in it, or loaded in the truck. Thoroughly read the towing chapter of your manual, and take the stated measurements to determine hitch type, and the proper way to weigh your rig. Never assume that because your new truck has a towing package, that you can just hook up a trailer and go. Once you determine what type of hitch you need, and properly set it up, your next stop should be taking your loaded rig to a certified weigh station. Follow the truck and trailer weighing instructions stated in your manual, and adjust the trailers weight so that you have 10-15% of total trailer weight on the tongue. Your hitch setup may not be correct for both trailers, especially if the two trailer frames sit at different heights. There is no "one size fits all". When properly loaded and connected, the truck and trailer frames should each be level, and parallel to the road. Remember that everything that you load into the truck, including passengers, counts against the tow rating. I tow a 7000 lb., 29' travel trailer, and it tows like a dream. I've been towing travel and enclosed car trailers for about 45 years, using Chevy, Ford and Dodge trucks, half and 3/4 ton, and my '19 Silverado is the most stable, yet. It tows so well that I often catch myself driving with just two fingers.
One more comment, and then I'm done. The comments by strikers that have been appearing in the news are a slap in the face to just about anyone else holding down a job in this day and age. Most everywhere you look, businesses in every field are understaffed, the workers are asked to do more than their job description calls for, benefits and pay raises are diminishing, there's often mandatory on-call and/or overtime, and pensions are a thing of the past. Opportunities for vacations may be limited to certain times of the year, and you may still be required to take care of your work responsibilities, even while on that vacation. Job security? What is that? If you want security, don't price yourself out of a job. The public is not siding with GM because they have done a good PR job. The majority of the public are out busting their butts every day, just like UAW workers are. There are literally millions of hard-working people out there with jobs that require a high level of education, along with highly specialized skills, and they can't match current UAW pay or benefits. Our car club just participated in a very large car show this past weekend. The hot topic of conversation at the show was the GM strike, but I didn't hear any sympathy for the workers. Not even from former GM employees. That's due to the fact that just about everyone in today's working world is facing a similar situation, but don't stand a snowballs chance in hell of matching autoworkers salaries. Many said that they would do anything to get a pay and benefit offer like the one GM initially put before the UAW.
The point that most are missing is how do you compete in the world market, when workers in other countries are willing to work for much less than workers in the US, and they are thankful for their jobs. UAW workers are paid very well, especially when compared to salaries/benefits of most other blue-collar workers who will never see such perks. Consider that UAW assembly line workers are usually categorized by business experts as "semi-skilled" workers, but receive much higher pay and benefits than the "skilled" trades do. If labor costs are lower, the budget would allow for better features or quality of materials to be used. The same thing applies to the salaries of big business CEO's. For those that say that the workers should get more, and that the company should profit less, you are forgetting that there are stockholders and investors demanding profits. Consider the big picture, accept GM's generous offer, live within your means, and keep your job! Considering the current world business environment, be thankful for the current offer - one that most blue-collar workers would give their right arm for.
Thanks for jumping in there for me J-Stroke!
I was also offered the prototype, but haven't received anything to date. We're not towing again for several more weeks, but it would be nice to have the fix before we go, so we can test it prior to the end of the camping season. The good thing is that the factory mirrors on the 2019's are very good for towing.
I am not having a lighting issue, but my trailer test tells me that the electric brakes are not connected. About 30 seconds later, I get the message that my saved brake settings are enabled. My trailer brakes work just fine, and the gain settings adjust the brakes normally, so no problems with trailer brake operation. Don't know why the test says that the brakes are not connected???
I misunderstood the camera function, too. They are for backup purposes only. It would be nice if you could leave them activated, though. Despite that, the outside mirrors on the '19 pickups are every bit as good as my 2012 Silverado with add-on towing mirrors. We have a 29' travel trailer that's 8',1" wide, and I have an excellent view around the trailer.
I have the same cover, but my bed stays mostly dry, even in hard rains. Only minimal leakage near the tailgate. Nothing inside the bed has gotten wet, yet. Weatherstripping can be purchased many places, and in many different configurations. It may be that the weatherstripping on yours was crushed by overtightening during the install by the dealership. The install instructions mention only tightening the nuts by two turns, or damage may occur. As mentioned above, climb inside the bed and have someone close it up while you look for sun/light entering.
I'll have to see if Jensen can come up with a similar fix.
I have an LTZ with 6.2/10-speed and Max Towing. It has the 20" wheels with AT tires. I bought it for towing our 29' travel trailer, while hauling the rest of our camping/towing gear (300 lbs. max) in the truck bed. I pump tires up to 41psi for towing, but reduce pressure to normal for daily driving. I leave some of the gear loaded in the bed, unless I have to remove it to haul something. The ride is firm, but smooth. Leaf springs and live axles can always bounce you around when on poor roads with no load in the back, especially when cornering. Since I use ours as a truck, I prefer the leaf springs to coil spring suspension. Better stability when towing. Bottom line is that I'm pleased overall with the ride and handling, especially for a truck spec'd to handle a load.
I think that the subcontractors that make the parts for the manufacturers sometimes cut corners, or let substandard pieces get by while they are having manufacturing issues, as in the above case. The second part of the equation is the fact that treatments applied to the roads during winter are all oxidizers that will eat into the metal. Salt, calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are all used on roads, and they only need moisture and air to activate them, and they'll eat into any metal, including mid and lower-grade stainless steel. If that stuff doesn't get completely cleaned out of every nook & cranny, then every time it rains it re-activates. Put both of these conditions together, and you're going to get rust, so the build quality and materials used have to be held to the highest standards.
Since GM said that the new trucks would be camera-compatible, and it's obvious that they did not thoroughly investigate existing camera systems during their infotainment design, they should provide us with the stand-alone hard-wire cameras that they sell as an accessory. At a significant discount, of course.
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