I am not having a lighting issue, but my trailer test tells me that the electric brakes are not connected. About 30 seconds later, I get the message that my saved brake settings are enabled. My trailer brakes work just fine, and the gain settings adjust the brakes normally, so no problems with trailer brake operation. Don't know why the test says that the brakes are not connected???
I misunderstood the camera function, too. They are for backup purposes only. It would be nice if you could leave them activated, though. Despite that, the outside mirrors on the '19 pickups are every bit as good as my 2012 Silverado with add-on towing mirrors. We have a 29' travel trailer that's 8',1" wide, and I have an excellent view around the trailer.
I have the same cover, but my bed stays mostly dry, even in hard rains. Only minimal leakage near the tailgate. Nothing inside the bed has gotten wet, yet. Weatherstripping can be purchased many places, and in many different configurations. It may be that the weatherstripping on yours was crushed by overtightening during the install by the dealership. The install instructions mention only tightening the nuts by two turns, or damage may occur. As mentioned above, climb inside the bed and have someone close it up while you look for sun/light entering.
I'll have to see if Jensen can come up with a similar fix.
I have an LTZ with 6.2/10-speed and Max Towing. It has the 20" wheels with AT tires. I bought it for towing our 29' travel trailer, while hauling the rest of our camping/towing gear (300 lbs. max) in the truck bed. I pump tires up to 41psi for towing, but reduce pressure to normal for daily driving. I leave some of the gear loaded in the bed, unless I have to remove it to haul something. The ride is firm, but smooth. Leaf springs and live axles can always bounce you around when on poor roads with no load in the back, especially when cornering. Since I use ours as a truck, I prefer the leaf springs to coil spring suspension. Better stability when towing. Bottom line is that I'm pleased overall with the ride and handling, especially for a truck spec'd to handle a load.
I think that the subcontractors that make the parts for the manufacturers sometimes cut corners, or let substandard pieces get by while they are having manufacturing issues, as in the above case. The second part of the equation is the fact that treatments applied to the roads during winter are all oxidizers that will eat into the metal. Salt, calcium chloride and magnesium chloride are all used on roads, and they only need moisture and air to activate them, and they'll eat into any metal, including mid and lower-grade stainless steel. If that stuff doesn't get completely cleaned out of every nook & cranny, then every time it rains it re-activates. Put both of these conditions together, and you're going to get rust, so the build quality and materials used have to be held to the highest standards.
Since GM said that the new trucks would be camera-compatible, and it's obvious that they did not thoroughly investigate existing camera systems during their infotainment design, they should provide us with the stand-alone hard-wire cameras that they sell as an accessory. At a significant discount, of course.
As stated by others, that's the trailer security system. Save yourself some headaches by reading the trailering section of your manual. You also need to change alert settings when towing. Also, be sure to have your truck lights turned on before unplugging your trailer's wire from the truck.
I didn't realize that this was the case when I ordered the trailering camera package, but was pleased to see that the factory mirrors are more than sufficient for seeing around my 8'1" wide trailer. The trailer is 28.5' long, and I have no problem seeing around it, and I can see traffic coming up on both sides from far behind the trailer. At least as good as my '12 Silverado with slip-on towing mirrors, and maybe a little better. GM realized that if the mirror is flush with the housing lip, instead of recessing the mirror, the housing won't block your view.
Function depends on your model. It's clearly explained in the manual. Sport mode feels good, but I can't really tell, since I only have 1000 miles on mine, and everything is still super tight. Tow/Haul worked great while towing our 6500# travel trailer.
Ordered ours on 12/3. All LTZ & HC CCSB trucks at dealership were built in FW when we ordered. Ours was built on 2/20 in Mexico and just arrived in Delaware late afternoon of 4/11. Dealer pulled strings with district manager to have shipping expedited, or it may have taken two more weeks. I don't have issues with the Mexico plant. My Avalanche was built there, and it was perfect. Never had any issues with it. The good thing about the truck taking so long to build and ship, is that most of the issues have been corrected at this point. When your truck arrives at the dealership, they will install all of the latest updates.
I hope this helps you out. Saw this while viewing the manual prior to towing for the first time. This is where you should concentrate your efforts. Take your measurements, as shown on page 285, to determine if you need a WD hitch (it looks like you do). Starting on page 279, read ALL towing info regarding trailer weights, loading, hitches, and weight measuring. 284 Driving and Operating Towing Equipment Hitches Always use the correct hitch equipment for your vehicle. Crosswinds, large trucks going by, and rough roads can affect the trailer and the hitch. Proper hitch equipment for your vehicle helps maintain control of the vehicle-trailer combination. Many trailers can be towed using a weight-carrying hitch which has a coupler latched to the hitch ball, or a tow eye latched to a pintle hook. Other trailers may require a weight-distributing hitch that uses spring bars to distribute the trailer tongue weight between your vehicle and trailer axles. See “Maximum Trailer Tongue Weight” under Trailer Towing (279) for weight limits with various hitch types. Avoid sharp turns when using a step-bumper hitch to prevent damage. Make wider turns to prevent contact between your trailer and your bumper. Consider using mechanical sway controls with any trailer. Ask a trailering professional about sway controls or refer to the trailer manufacturer's recommendations and instructions. Weight-Distributing Hitch and Adjustment A weight-distributing hitch may be useful with some trailers. Use the following guidelines to determine if a weight-distributing hitch should be used (shown on page 285). NOTE: Helper springs and air bags will not increase loading capacity ratings. You are still limited to the original factory ratings by law, and you should never exceed any of the listed weights on the door sticker. You may want to check with your state's DMV to confirm. If you are a racer, think of a WD hitch setup as being similar to subframe connectors on a race car, only they flex slightly, instead of being rigid. They make your tow vehicle and trailer act almost as if they were on the same chassis, with weight evenly distributed across all axles. Many brands are out there, but the added benefit of an Equal-i-zer brand hitch, is that it is also a sway control device. The towing experience is fantastic! No sway, despite tractor trailers blowing past you. It is the top-rated WD hitch in the RV industry. I bought mine from AdventureRV.net for around $425. Best I ever used on my car trailer or travel trailers. Closely follow the instruction manual, weigh your loaded truck and trailer as shown in your truck manual, properly distribute the trailer's weight, and you'll find that your truck will tow just fine without changing shocks or springs. Just be sure to stay within all limits.
21STCMC - Your pictures do not show your hitch setup, but you seem to have your trailer just sitting on the ball, with the truck springs taking all of the tongue load. That is an improper setup for the weight you are towing. You state that your trailer is 3642 lbs. when empty, and that your race car weighs 2945, for a total of 6587 lbs. This doesn't account for any tools or other equipment that you may also place in the trailer, plus the weight of the hitch, itself. At 6587 lbs., your tongue weight should be kept between 659 lbs. minimum, and 990 lbs. maximum. Your truck is probably rated for 930 lb. max tongue weight, according to your trailering sticker. You need to weigh your loaded rig at a truck scale so that you can position your race car to keep tongue weight within the proper range. CDNSS has posted a picture above that clearly shows that he is using an Equal-i-zer brand weight distributing hitch, one of the best on the market. It is also an anti-sway setup, so it cures both issues. This is a proper towing setup, as it evenly distributes the weight, while eliminating sway causedand porpoising over bumps and seams in the road. I hauled a '69 Camaro in a 24' race trailer, and multiple travel trailers for years, including with a 2002 Suburban half-ton, but always had to use a WD hitch, or I would be facing the same situation that you are. Our state inspection requires a properly rated WD hitch between my half-ton truck & trailer. I had to forego the Z71 option, and go for the Max Towing due to my tongue weights running close to 1000 lbs. I also use an Equal-I-zer brand hitch (10,000 lb total / 1,000 lb. tongue rating). Max Towing package allows for 1130 lb tongue weight. GOOD LUCK!
Our LTZ CCSB was ordered on 12/3/18, built on 2/20, but now seems to be lost in shipment. I was told 1-1/2 weeks ago that it was on it's way to Baltimore (80 miles away), but no updated ETA yet. GM district manager is trying to track it down. Four months and counting!
Are you using a weight distributing hitch with equalizer/spring bars? If not, you should be, and there's the answer to your problem. Any half-ton towing anything over 3000 - 3500 lbs. should be using a weight distribution setup. The equalizer bars act as a set of leaf springs between the truck and trailer, evenly distributing the weight, and equalizing ride height. I doubt that it's a problem with your springs or shocks. Was your Suburban a 2500 series by any chance (sounds like it if the hitch receiver was higher than on your AT4)? My trailer's GVWR is only 6500 lbs. but tongue weight is close to 1000 lbs, requiring me to use a weight-distributing hitch rated for 10,000 lb. total/1,000 lb. tongue. Without that, I'd have the same issue that you have. Your manual has trailering tips. You should distribute weight on the trailer so that the tongue weight is 10-15% of the total weight of the fully loaded trailer. Weight distribution hitches can be purchased in weight increments, and your hitch rating should exceed the trailers GVWR and tongue weight, so that you have a safety cushion. Any hitch shop or RV dealer should be able to set you up with a proper hitch.
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