bigsapper

On the front, one of the pins for the eccentric fell out and apparently just all around looseness. So all that was fixed. Put the trans spacer back in. Left the 4* shims in with fat side forward. Alignment, road force balance. I think the shudder I felt in the gas pedal @ ~30mph was due to the front end issues. I think the truck would ride fine with or without the shims. Driveshaft shortening was a must. Now on to forced induction

I guess I should have taken it to the dealership to begin with. I've got everything sorted out now with the suspension/lowering kit.

Took my truck to a Goodyear shop thats has good people. The caster eccentrics are jacked up, loose and one of the pins fell out; and the rear is offset, i.e., dog walking. So basically the install was completely jacked up. They didn't want to try to fix it so I'm hoping that my local dealership can un-jack this for me.

I've got a first in class & a third overall trucks.

Looks good! Don't enter any car shows around me. ;)

Yep. After the initial install, the installer didn't mention how tight the driveshaft was to install. Later when I was trying to measure my driveline angles to diagnose the vibration issue, I was attempting to remove the driveshaft and couldn't. Took it back to the installer and we had a conversation about it. He sent it out to a driveshaft shop and had it shortened 1.5". The driveshaft has been trouble free, but I still have a vibration issue. What chaps my behind about shortening the driveshaft, is I am planning on upgrading my driveshaft but I don't want to buy it until I get the drop sorted out.

So the dealer shops have a new driveline vibration diagnostic tool. Does this help them determine the corrective action necessary? Or does it just indicate a vibration issue?

I'm not sure. I had a local shop do the install and the followup troubleshooting. We both had Belltech support engaged. I even asked if they had a certified or recommended installer I could take it to for verification of the install. No luck in all of the DFW area. :S I didn't break open the boxes I received but they were labeled correctly. (#988). I looked to see as best I could if the install was done correctly and it appeared so. At this point, I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

I always use the information on the pump receipt along with the mileage on my tripmeter whenever I fill up.

I'm self-employed so I've put pencil to paper (actually I use a spreadsheet) for every single tank for more than 20 years. I know my numbers are accurate. Let's look at my just done fillup. This one was mostly highway as I went out of town Friday. 286.8 miles / 19.603 gals = 14.62 mpg So what I was seeing on the DIC in realtime looks a little optimistic.

I have the Belltech flip kit for the 2014 RCSB. I have a vibration from about 25-35. Removing the trans spacer and a 4" shim didn't help much. Belltech tech support was of no help. Oh and I had to shorten my driveshaft 1.5", too.

I'll add that the AFM stayed engaged quite a bit more than my 2013. IN my 2013, just about any load would cause it to switch back to V8. Today, the V4 would stay engaged even on gradual upslopes. Another observation; in my RCSB you definitely feel a surge when it transitions back and forth.

Just got done with a little trip east running on I-20. About 18mpg on the highway with E85. 5.3L, 3.42, RCSB. I can live with that.

Pretty sure that's wrong. Everyone that I'm aware of with a 6.2 in a 2014 Silverado/Sierra, none are flex fuel. Do you have a yellow gas cap?

lol. I caught the drag racing bug again last year after being away a few decades. Came across ClassRacer.com and noticed he posts there quite a bit. Its a shame whats happening to the sport; but class racing is where its at theses days IMHO.

Ed Wright, huh? Do you hang out on Class Racer?

My RCSB didn't. I had to hard wire mine in.

If I had to guess, the changes they made to the kit so you don't have to jack with that stuff on CC & DB models, had the opposite effect for RC models.

I'm spec'ing some Vi-king shocks right now. Wheels...probably the 2014 Silverado 18" OEM powder coated gunmetal gray. Mounting the spare in the bed. Custom exhaust with a center rear exit like the Chevy Cheyenne shown at SEMA. Denny's driveshaft and drive shaft loops. FI. Leaning toward a Whipple right now. I'd be half way there if I hadn't spent the last month screwing around with this Belltech 988 kit.

For the front, a newly redesigned front spindle and lower coils. Also included the front end alignment correction kit. For the rear, a flip kit that was supposed to have been redesigned for 2014 to correct pinion angle issues present on the GMT900 series (hah!). Also a transmission mount spacer. Also, the kit only "recommends" drop shocks. Consider them a must. I broke both of mine within 50 miles of driving. Belltech kit 988. (reminds me I need to update Belltech support about my experience)

Finally got mine sorted out. But I wouldn't recommend this kit for a RCSB. In addition to jacking with pinion shims and transmission spacers, the driveshaft needed to be shortened 1.5". As the yutes would say, sketchy.

Great thread. I had a Flex on my 2013 I really liked. Looking for another for my 2014 but I have different requirements now. Priority is light weight. 2nd is flush fit. Just about every bed cover discussion on the internet pretty much mirrors this one. Can someone point me in a different direction?

Belltech has a 3/6 kit out specifically for the 2014s. It's PN 988. Mine will be installed next Monday on my RCSB. My dealer would have had it installed as part of the original purchase, but various demons in the universe prevented it from happening.