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pokismoki

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Everything posted by pokismoki

  1. convert to a 4l75 or 4l80, simpler, stronger, cheaper
  2. change fluid, then do a [trans reset] at the dealer. use 5th gear to keep it out of v4
  3. 33" is where the limits are on stock set up. after this your chasing upgrade after upgrade when you exceed 33"$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
  4. for $300 you can get a real 20hp just by throwing a couple switches in the software on HP tuners
  5. just curious , did the ticking sounds begin after a recent oil change? only reason i ask is GM has two oil filters that will fit our trucks, one is low pressure bypass, and the other is much higher pressure. just curious if everyone knows this? and if your running the correct filter? you have to have the correct bypass pressure to match up with the new variable oil pumps on these gen5's running the wrong filter can increase wear on the valve train components
  6. i see you have larger front calipers, than the stock truck. did this effect your braking bias in anyway?
  7. source of the problem is your running factory engine t-stat, and probably using 0w-20 oil, i doubt you change oil before 5000 miles. , who knows what engine loading your put the motor under while in such a vulnerbal state. next time run race oil minimum 10-30wt, get a 170 t-stat, and add and engine oil cooler. this will support the weak components to live longer
  8. hasnt been an issue on the forum you might have issues with the vlom, di injectors, and trans pump ,converter, radiator failure, and AC condensor issues... most of these issue i believe are caused by GM's excessive high operating temps due to emmissions compliance with the feds
  9. how did you clean the terminals? grounds are most important connection I use 220 grit machinist emmery tape, fold it up and work it in the contacts. truck is too new to be chasing the brake switch...keep us posted
  10. try running 91 octane and drop the tailgate, inflate tires 40 psi. and drive using the MPG gragh display while using v4 as much as possible, if you can find premium fuel with 0 ethanol than this gives amaizing results, i got over 560 miles on a full tank[22 gal] doing this
  11. interesting, funny the BS that spreads around the interweb
  12. i have no experience with either, what are the similarities and the differences between the two?
  13. keep it simple stoopid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033WDG58?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k1_1_12&amp&crid=NT6BG1XEKIQ1&amp&sprefix=curt+trailer
  14. I know a few of you on here are old racers, was wondering in your past experiences with race cars, have you guys every pulled the thermostats out of the motor for full flow, and at then experimented with regulating the airflow thru the radiator instead? if so what did you find out? how much occlusion of the radiator is needed for decent warm up, cruising and high load [racing, towing] situations? what design did you go with to block the radiator? cardboard or fancy shutters?
  15. that 10 speed is also used in the FOrd units too i believe, I wonder what tuning mods those guys have researched for thier trucks?
  16. safetly first, and more capacity meets that req. stay away from Harbor freight,
  17. what trans is in the 2500 or 3500 your looking at? they must have serious granny gear in first
  18. its possible but probably not worth the $$$$$ to add it on just get the $50 curt controller from amazon, and be done with those silly ideas of adding factory controller
  19. i like that pre-filter material design, looks like a bug catcher before packing the pleats with trash, almost makes it re-useable, just shop vac the prefilter clean and throw it back in
  20. i would enjoy seeing one of your graphs after a trans cooler install, any plans for one?
  21. if your in cold climate and have done the thermostat delete, and you feel the trans could use some heat to improve shifting... you can simply and firmly, step on the brake pedal and hold down the throttle pedal.. sounds crazy, but Torque Management will take over and disable the clutches and you wont have any driveline connection. this should improve wam-up in winter and get heat into the fluid while the computer holds the rpms at a certain safe level
  22. the best tune for the money i found, is installing 170 thermostat, disconnecting the TCC function in the trans, pull out the restrictor in the CAI, and activate the power enrichment in the ecu. this alone will trip the Torque management so you know it makes good power for cheap. total cost about $250 and almost adds 20 hp , requires premium fuel to keep the engine in the high octane advance table, next power upgrade is the E85 sensor, might add 10 hp
  23. the suspension in no great shakes, under sized brakes, too much front bias, undersized steering links (dangerous for offroading) not good if your on 35" rear end is good, under utilized rear disc brakes is a waste.. i got a laundery list of other issues i cant recall it all
  24. thats the issue with amsoil, its great stuff. but its not the weakest component. switching to High end trans fluid will do nothing for longevity. the clutches dont fail on these, but O-rings, plastic, rubber seals and check valves. and the incorrectly designed PR valve, is the issue we're seeing,
  25. stock tune is reliable, just do a trans rest every oil change, and keep the temps below 160 should get 150,000 even deleting the thermostat isnt enough, they really need trans coolers will a aux fan . oneday you'll be in the desert or somewhere hot and peak over 220F pulling something, that right there will probably take 20k miles off it, the plastic seals and parts inside are the weak link
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