TheRiver

IMNTBHO; you really need to think about 5W40.....................

No.............a "regular cab" LONG BED................like pickups used to be!!!!

Still hard to believe there's not a fix/module/program to keep; what is turning out to be based on reviews and real world statements a stout, ample engine, out of 2 cylinder mode. It's got some quirks; but IMHO, many of those could be solved with locking out 2 cylinder mode, and revamping the PCV system. Seems to me the folks that run these engines at "boost" are the ones seeing major oil consumption...........Engine break-in maybe??? I'm very intrigued about this engine................

IMNTBHO; a manual transmission would deter most scumbags from stealing a car nowadays. Especially if it were "3 on the tree" for a car.................or a "high/low", or a "splitter" in a truck!!!!

My above trailer; 6x10' single axle was purchased new in 2011 with electric brakes.................i ordered it that way. They were a PITA from within the first year..............constantly adjusting.................finally quit working about 2016, and I never bothered to repair or replace them. Drove a few years with them frozen/not applying. Then there was noise. So I pulled apart the both sides, removed all brake paraphernalia, cut the electric lines, and put new bearing, races, and seals in the existing drum hubs. Hubs were tough looking..............a lot of rust scale that I could peel off with my fingers, and even more with a wire brush. At the time I thought they may be compromised...............but I reinstalled with new innards. Have been fine since; but if I traveled more than 40 miles a day, that was a lot. My question is this.....................This trailer came with the Dexter torsion axle with electric brakes. Can I replace the old electric brake drum/hub with a standard hub???? New bearings, races, and seals of course. Thanks.

No one has figured a way to keep this turbo 4 cylinder in 4 cylinder all the time yet??? Range type device or tuning???

You typed that you have a '15 V-8......................which, I believe, routes the trans cooler lines to the radiator prior to entering the "condenser/trans cooler" in front of the radiator..................just like the V-6's. I have a '16; and my trans cooler lines go directly to the "condenser/trans cooler". When I tow heavy; I drop her into M5 and let her spin at the higher rpms. Engine runs cooler, and the tranny will like it much more also. I have no qualms about running 65mph towing in M5.

And another!!!!

Excellent post.

Brand of lift???

Manual transmission..................

X2.................I removed the OnStar/BigBrother module from my truck years ago. No more tracking............ I read that it's much harder to do now though...........................

Been trying to isolate a creaking/popping sound in my truck. I believe I have it narrowed down to the passenger shock. With little up and down movement I can feel vibration in the bottom of the shock where the shock mounts to the lower control arm and in the top hat area. This vibration gets transmitted into both control arms and spring. I can even feel it in the bumper ......................and in the gas pedal going down the road. I've soaked every bushing on the front end with silicone lube to no avail. Did an experiment a bit earlier today. Pushed down on the drivers side a couple times and it was fairly easy to get it moving. Went to passenger side to try the same; and it definitely felt stiffer and much harder to get moving up and down. Not very scientific, but that's the story. Bilstein 5100's on 3rd notch with close to 200k miles on them. What y'all think??

I'm at just under 40.1mph.................................226,4xxmiles with 5645.x hours on the clock. Just typing.

"Active Grill Shutters"???

It's not "straight, clean oil"!!! Pour it into a glass container, and watch it separate.

In temps below 45-50*f or so is when I start seeing the milkshakes in my Elite CC. It doesn't need to be "frigid"!!! In straight highway driving in those temps or lower; my CC will be full in 4-500 miles. In suburbia driving in those temps; I'll check my CC every 3-4 days...............especially if a lot of short trips where truck is shut off without coming up to full operating temps.

Deuce Are Wild......... 6C8FFCB5-F0CE-49AA-891C-D3883F0580A0.heic

Seems to be working fine IMHO.

Check it frequently if you live in "cold" climates. My Elite will be full in 4-500 miles of cold weather driving.

I think that you're misunderstanding my post. I'm calling the "front crankshaft seal" the "timing cover seal"......................because that's what GM calls it. Please forgive me for being specific.

I've got a leak coming from the front of the engine; and the mostly culprit is the timing cover seal. It's starting to spew oil onto the vacuum pump belt and although it doesn't leave leaks in my garage or driveway, it bugs me. Just what kind of ordeal is this to perform on your own??? I mean dealing with the "Jesus bolt" on the balancer, and then the tight quarters of getting the balancer off. What say y'all??

There is the "snow plow prep" package which gets you heavy duty front springs and wiring for auxiliary lights etc.

A74E6873-D976-408B-9C20-42CDE689D0ED.heic

I used the Range device religiously on my 2016 or drove in M5 when not needing or wanting the 2nd OD around town/suburbia. Range was always used for country and Interstate driving. That typed; I lost a NON-AFM lifter at 106,****** miles. IMHO; there's too many variables/sensor inputs in these trucks.................deciding what gear, if TC locks, if TC unlocks, V4, V8, throttle position, pitch, yaw, etc.................. I have 112,****** miles on the rebuild now. Rebuilt without the AFM crap. Running 10w30 or 5w40 oil also.