TheRiver

To me it sounds like a loose "heat shield" somewhere.

Probably wouldn't hurt to use a 5W40 Euro oil at all. Especially with the highway miles you do.

When I check oil; most often, one side of the dipstick reads higher and one side reads lower. Sometimes by as much as 1/2". Which side should I take as the "TRUE" oil level??? That said also....................sometimes I'll check a week later and the dipstick reads higher than the previous time. Same level garage floor also!!! Always checked cold on an overnight sit too.

Glad you think so.......................

I change oil myself. Don't trust the quickie places after a couple bad experiences in the past. Cost me usually less than $45................Just under $10 for PF63 AC/Delco oil filter and just under $20/5qt. jug of SuperTech 10W30. Usually buy 2 of the SuperTech 5qt. jugs and carry a spare quart or 2.............and then around the 2nd-3rd oil change time, I just need to buy 1 5qt. jug. Change oil about 3500-4000 miles on average......................which is about every 5-6 weeks for me.

Does it need to be "programmed" to the BCM so it'll work also???

subscribing

Pumped out 1gal+10oz of used ATF via the tranny dipstick tube and added a fresh gallon/4qts. of ATF + 1 bottle/10oz of Lubegard red. Took about 30 minutes prep to clean up. Almost 214k miles on this OEM 6L80E............................ I do this about every 3rd or 4th oil change. So far, go good.

5 year old post.................you type like a "troll". A lot of them typing here lately!!

So you kept driving it while it was having problems??? And you've made it more worser now????

"Peoplez Republik of Illinoiz" here.............................same communism, different state................................my 2016 5.3 was rebuilt due to a non AFM lifter failure, and rebuilt without all the AFM BS. Passed the Illinoiz OBD2 plug in inspection without issue last year. Had issue 2 years prior when I was running the Range device....................didn't get enough engine cycles in without the Range for it to pass.

Is the turbo oil cooled or water cooled?? If oil; I'll bet that's where she's going, especially if the tailpipe is black inside. The video you posted of the spark plug change out showed that you're really not getting oil into the cylinders. What did that take; about 12" of socket extensions in order to reach the plug???

With what type of driving do you seem to be losing the oil........................high speed interstate, or stop and go around town/suburbia???

Are you still running without the fuses installed??? How is oil consumption???

Our trucks take the PF-63 if using AC/Delco filters.

Engine rebuilt at 106,2xx miles almost 3 years ago now due to a NON-AFM lifter failure that wiped out the cam etc. Have 207,3xx miles on her now. Rebuilt without all the AFM garbage. Get the same mileage. Good conditions..........22+mpg highway.....................bad conditions 18mpg highway......................both running 70mph. OEM brakes, ball joints, tie rod ends, and tranny. For tranny, I pump out 4qt. tranny fluid every 15k miles and replace with fresh. Diffs and transfer case changed every 75k. Front unit bearings replaced at 150k. Sway bar bushings at about 150k. On 2nd set of replacement tires from OEM...............got 96,4xx miles off the OEM tires....................91,4xx off the Cooper Discoverer AT3's................have 15k+ on my Rocky Mountain All Terrains now..................house brand from Discount Tire. I like them a lot!! Since engine rebuild; engine oil/filter changed every 3-4k miles. Engine rebuilder said to use the cheapest 10w30 and change it often. Engine runs better and is much more quieter after rebuild. Engine was always "loud" IMHO prior to the failure. Entire passenger side body panels have been replaced....................deer took out the whole side. Solid otherwise.

If'n it's running good, and you're not making payments on it....................you're making money keeping it for now.

Wires are only 2.75yo now. Man that rebuilt engine after a lifter failure put new ones on then. Yeah; 100,000 in under 3 years!!! Thanks.

So how do y'all think they look???

Mine went on cylinder 3....................wiped out the cam...................not a AFM lifter either......................just typing!!!!

I use my; handy/dandy, Amsoil hand pump to pump out 1 gallon of ATF from my truck via the dipstick tube, every 15,000k or so!!! Been doing that since 45k on the clock. 204,0xx on the clock now!! OEM tranny.

Sitting at 201,4xx miles as of today. Original brakes, tranny, front end (save for unit bearings)..................

1170 mile drive yesterday...................straight thru, Ocala, FL to norther Illinois/almost Wisconsin. All in this insanely hot/humid weather. I installed the lower temp tranny thermal bypass unit prolly 2 years ago now as well as installing the Corvette/Camaro engine thermostat on my truck shortly after. Anyhow; trip home yesterday, trans stayed in the 147-154* range while cruising..............AC on the whole drive home. The trans temp would get up to 167* if I stopped at rest area and either shut truck down, or left it running..............never got any warmer than that....................no air flow. Only time my engine gauge would move would be after these short breaks getting back onto the Interstates. The trans heat that built up had to go somewhere; so it went into the condenser which pushes that heat into the radiator, and the engine coolant temp spikes for a couple minutes until the HOT air going down the highway cools it down enough.

IMHO; the steelies are more easier to care for than any other rim type!!! Simple and dependable are more gooder; than fancy and a slave to, in order to keep looking nice.

Joe Biden SUX