AndrewF

I have a regular cab truck and am looking to obtain body molding for the doors. As the regular cabs are fairly rare nowadays and thus so are aftermarket parts, my plan was just to order a set for crew cabs and just use the set for the front doors. However that sent me down a rabbit hole to where I am now. I would have originally thought the HD front doors would be the same no matter the cab style, however on the GM Parts.com website it lists different door part numbers for the RC vs CC trucks, along with different sizes for each in the "spec" tab. Are the doors actually different and different sizes for the different cab styles? The easy answer for my molding quest might be for someone to measure the door as shown in the picture below so i can compare to my door. If anyone has a 1500 and can measure the door from in the same place that would also be helpful as there are alot more body molding options for 1500s. I know the doors themselves are different between 1500s and 2500s but it would be good to know if the body molding length needed is the same.

I called next gen about this a few months ago. Supposedly install doesn’t require any sort of tuning, and from reading the instructions and watching a few videos doesn’t seem too complicated for a decent or better diy mechanic to do. The only problem according to them is the upgrade is not factory “approved” and can void warranty. So for me it’s a waiting game, maybe GM will come up with an actually solution or recall to fix on their own, but either if my warranty runs out or if I have an issue and there still is a multi month lead time to get a new valve body I’ll just install it.

I plan on using the Dorman pan in a year or two when I do my first fluid change. At least in my first year of ownership I haven’t remotely had concerns with trans temps so I don’t want the extra capacity of the currently available more expensive aftermarket pans.

Yeah my window sticker says sterling gray. Online vs real life colors are way off

Gotcha, thanks for the response. That makes sense, also why I’ve never seen any gray/silver trucks darker than mine in this generation. I do wish it was a little darker and closer to the configuration color in reality though but oh well. And here I thought the actual slate gray color trucks were something completely different than they actually are. I figured it would be a long shot my paperwork was wrong but glad it’s right.

My truck is listed as Sterling Gray Metallic on the build sheet and online in the GM Financial website, however I noticed that the color in reality is much lighter than what shows up on the GM Financial image as well as the general Chevrolet Configurator website. Playing around in the configurator my color much more closely matches Slate Gray Metallic. Is it possible something is messed up? Here are some pictures of what my truck is supposed to look like according to the website, along with what it actually looks like. What color do i actually have?

Disregard my original post, you have the 6L90 not the 10L1000

Seems to be that the pin rating that they assign is just 15% of the total towing capacity, whatever that may be without regard for payload capacity. Not to get into a debate on exceeding factory specs but that one doesn't make a lot of sense, I always thought gooseneck tongue weight could be up to 25% as long as you don't exceed rear axle/spring capacity.

Is that the same nut socket as the 11.5” 2500s? If so I’ll save the reference for when my time comes.

Doesn't have part numbers but breaks out spring ratings. From the Fleet Order Guide website 2024_Chevy_Silverado_2500_HD_VYU_New1 (5).pdf

Those should be the 4800 lb ones. I bought one of those in preparation to swap out my 6k lb plow package ones.

I'll have to take a look at that confirm, I didn't think about it that way so good idea.

Thanks. Sounds like I'm out of luck. I've previously gone into the settings and turned those systems off (and have the yellow indicator on the dash saying they're disabled) but still get the alerts. I can understand when the windshield is fogged/frosted over, but a significant portion of the mornings around here have foggy weather and every time it triggers the alerts. I'll try running the window defroster but I guess I'll just have to live with it.

Another question on the backlighting for the dash/display lights. I've gone into the settings and set the system to stay in "Day" mode for the dash/display lights, however when the headlights kick on they still auto dim to night mode. Normally this would be fine as all vehicles do this, however in my opinion in the evening or morning the dash lights are now too dim, even with the brightness toggled to max. Is there a reason why changing the setting doesn't actually do anything? Or am I doing something wrong?

Is there any way to turn off or deactivate the alerts for front collision warning? I do have the system turned off for both vehicles and pedestrians so I would've hoped that would've done it, however whenever the windshield is blocked or even when the weather is foggy i still get the windshield blocked error message along with front collision system deactivated. It would be one thing if it was just once and I could toggle away the alert, however after a few seconds it will come back so it is very annoying/distracting. It seems even minor weather fog causes the system to have issues... 2024 WT

I plan on eventually wiring fog lights to an upfitter switch. The plus side is that the fog light will then stay on when the high beams are on

I'm assuming the Wix 10255 "XP" is also acceptable, correct?

I went with Weathertech. Work good with no concerns, no tape or drilling. Would've rather bought the Gatorback set with finishing caps to remove the factory "mudflap" and have 1 true functional mudflap but i wasn't going to spend $700.

I thought the gas/diesel version pans were the same? Or do you mean the PPE pan won't fit gas trucks due to the extra capacity and exhaust routing?

I guess at least it’s an expected condition, thanks for sharing.

I took it in to the dealer today for the battery drain recall and had them look at the cables. They also checked a few other trucks on the lot and oddly they all had the same situation/"issue", the drivers side cable was sloppy while the passenger side is tight. They said it is cause of the torsion bar system on the passenger side and that the weight is held up by that so not to worry. That doesn't make sense but I couldn't do much since the rest of the trucks we looked at were all the same way. Does anyone else have this occurring? I'll have to measure the cable length to see if they're different or if something else is at play. I just don't want to put a bunch of weight on the tailgate and bend something since all the weight is being supported on only 1 side.

Are 87843669/70 the correct part numbers for the tailgate cables for the basic non-power tailgate? I noticed that one of mine must be off spec so there is a lot of slop while the other side is tight so I was going to replace them. Don’t want something getting messed up since all the weight is pulling on one side. I may ask the dealer to see if this is something warranty will cover but I’m not sure. It definitely came this way from the factory.

The bed is 8’2” at the bottom but at the top there is a bump (into the bed) which when measuring from that is 8’0”. And then another 9” to clear the bumper.

This might help with dimensions and front/rear loading https://www.gmfleetorderguide.com/brand-list/brand/77450ee3-dba7-431a-ad58-098f1ebd9f35/vehicle/22904/model-home