Doug_Scott

In order for a vacuum cleaner to work it requires flow. Once you snap the throttle shut(you cant actually snap the throttle shut, drive by wire prevents the throttle blades from snapping shut, they float shut)there is insufficient flow to pull the oil up from where it is. Oil misting is heavier than fuel and air misting, and any oil mist in the fuel/air mist will try to go straight on sharp turns and over time it will pool in pockets in the intake manifold. You can see this work by removing any steel wool or whatever you have in the catch can, dry up any oil in there, and then run it for 1000km. Then take a look inside the can. It will have oil in there, simply due to oil being heavier than whatever carried it in there.

Mine goes over 8000km between oil changes using oil life monitor and I get under 5cm in a medium Tim Hortons coffee cup. it takes 18 months or so to go that far. I use the truck twice a month, with each day going 200km. It is not uncommon for the truck to sit close to 3 weeks between trips. The trips are long enough to get everything hot, with zero moisture in crankcase. I never understood the time between oil changes, Its not like the oil is doing anything =, it is just sitting there. Short trips is a different matter.

We rarely if ever get those GM sales in Canada. I drive so little I would love to get a Bolt, I would have bought a Volt when they were around, but when you can a full size truck for less than the Volt was, it just didn't fit budget wise. Trying to come up with projected savings is a gamble I never seem to win.

Forgive me is someone already explained the line from the air box to the exhaust on the motorcycles. Chrysler started that way back in the 70s. Pretty sure it was called something like aspirator line, anyways, when you took the air cleaner lid off it made this loud rattle like noise. To stop it, if the car was just going to be idling, a 1in x 1in piece of paper over the open line would shut it up. There was vacuum on that port from the rear of the passenger side exhaust manifold. Motorcycles have them to, they are to draw in filtered air into the exhaust in order to help burn the fuel in the exhaust manifold. Does a good job. The purpose of the PCV valve is to help the engine crankcase handle the moisture that accumulates in the crankcase. A guy I know had a Mercedes ML320. He had a supercharger on it, and the guy that did it screwed around with the pcv system because the instructions did not deal with it. The supercharger was based on a procharger. In the spring, summer, fall it worked great. In the winter is when the issues appeared. He drove short city trips and parked in his underground parking lot. One day he went to a friends day for the day, and around midnight he went out and started his Mercedes and proceeded to drive home. About half way home his oil light came on. He shut the engine down, and called someone to come get him. While waiting he opened the hood and checked the oil. Dip stick said none. He called his friend to bring him some oil, he knew it took a lot of oil, couldn't remember how much so he asked his friend to get a case of 24litres, what he didn't use would not go bad, he will use it. By the time his friend arrived, the outside temp was something like -30C that night. He filled the truck with oil, I cannot recall how many he put into it, but it near the max capacity. He drove the Mercedes somewhere between 8 and 10 miles, with the light on. What had happened was that since the PCV system was inoperative, tremendous amounts of water condensation, that tan coloured slimey crap that is water and oil were trying for all they were worth to become a solution instead of just a mixture, had covered every surface inside that engine, and had frozen. That meant that because by design Mercedes run their crankcase under a positive pressure normally, and when the PCV system is working it handles it, but in this case, that positive pressure had to escape somewhere, and Mercedes in their brilliant design ran their dipstick tube right down to the bottom of the oil pan, that positive pressure first pushed the dipstick out of the tube until it came out far enough that the oil was pushed out of that engine in a 3/8(more correctly 10mm) diameter stream until the pan was essentially empty. By the time his friend had arrived, the engine's heat had managed to uncover an opening in the valve cover allowing the pressure to vent. But it had a rather ominous sound coming from it. I don't recall what it cost him. He had a supercharger kit for sale though. If you are intending on bypassing, disabling, or doing anything to alter its job, PCV first came on California cars sometime in the early 60s I think. Prior to that they used a "road draft" tube. To this day everyone knows the middle of your lane is very slippery when it first starts to rain. Today its nothing compare to how it used to be when cars had a tube with a slash cut on the end to put that oily mess all over the middle of their lane. We don't need to go back to those days. Pretty sure I heard that the 2020 Vette will have a can on it from the factory.

The first rule of diagnosis, new parts have a warranty for a reason. Just because a part is new does not mean it can't be the problem.

Sounds like the dealer is handling this. Pretty sure when you purchase a vehicle under that certified program it actually works for the customer. Chances are you just found out why the previous owner traded it in. Try to get the previous owners name and number and contact him to see if this issue was why he dealt it. You are lucky in the sense this is being covered. Do yourself a favour and stay out of the repairs. Let GM deal with it. You may find yourself in a different vehicle soon, just keep your cool, and wait until you have to get annoyed before you do. Don't jump to any conclusions.

Don't attempt to repair any squeaks yourself while the vehicle is under warranty. You may create an issue that will create an issue with warranty. Get your friend to take the truck in for any squeaks/rattles as soon as you can. This will create a paper trail that may come in handy later on. Not saying you will have issues in the future with dealers, just saying that while the truck is eligible for free repairs, take them up on their offer. Try to find the correct procedure to create the noise/rattle every time. He may also want to create a list of any issues he has found, or any issues passengers have found. Passengers tend to not be blinded by new vehicle pride.

It's the off-gassing of the plastics and the carpet. Wouldn't surprise me if manufacturers pick materials that produce the longest lasting off-gassing. And believe it or not, each of the big three have a unique new car "smell" to them. If you are sure it's not going to rain or snow, leave the windows down an inch and park in the sun.

Are they not paying straight time for wiring issues anymore? I remember a couple of wiring issue jobs that saved my ass one February that not one flat rate mechanic made the full hours due to crappy economy. This was in 78 I think. I was doing a PDI on a 78 Imperial. This was my first PDI since to keep mechanics they were doing PDIs on in stock new cars prior to sale. This Imperial was the most bizarre acting car I ever saw. Anyone who has read my posts in regards to electrical issues will notice I push verifying grounds. This car was what started all that. Nothing worked in this car as you would expect. Stuff like opening the door with engine running would cycle the wipers once. There were so many things not working correctly that it was impossible to get one to work without that fix appearing to break something else. After 7 hours the service manager saw that I was getting frustrated and he asked me why was I getting upset, wiring issues are straight time under warranty. Keep in mind this was 1977, no factory support, service manuals would show up in the spring, and any special tools wouldn't show up until you made one up from prior years tools. After 16 hours I finally gave up and ordered the main dash harness. Wasn't until I had most of the dash out of the car that I saw this huge bundle of wires connected to 5 eye connectors that were all supposed to attach to the 5/16 threaded stud with a real 5/16 NF nut and 2 of those thin sharp edged lock washers. I knew about the nut and washers because it all came with that 40 pound wiring harness. Found out why they weren't bolted down though, some genius ran the harness down the wrong side of a brace and it made ground wires too short to reach. I always wondered how many Imperials did that guy work on. Everytime I saw that car come in that year I got a chill down my back. The other wiring job that month were the first 2 Sapporos we had sold. Both cars were sold to the same family, and both were ordered in with radio, so the guy that used to do the radio work did the two cars, and they both came back because dash lights kept blowing fuses. I got the job, lucky me, and remember what I wrote about not getting manuals till late in model year, that meant no wiring diagram. It took me a long time to figure out that Mitsubishi did not wire things like the big three here, back then dash light brightness was controlled by hooking the ground wire to a rheostat. Mitsubishi on trolled brightness by controlling the power side. Everytime they would turn the brightness for dash lights, it would immediately blow the fuse, would have been a breeze to fix if we had known that. Second car was easy to fix though.

I would imagine if there is a diode out, and it was in fact causing the drain, it would show up right away when you pull the negative cable and check the current flow. I also have never heard of this happening in 40 some odd years of this mechanicing professionally. Get yourself an induction ammeter and with the hood left open, check the draw when you first shut it off a with the keys in your pocket, check the draw. Wait 15 minutes and don't touch the truck in those 15 minutes, check the draw again. It should be negligible (somewhere in the milliamps range}. Maybe leave it with the hood open overnight and check the draw again eight hours later. Be aware of how you are checking. You have to avoid doing anything that turns on a light bulb. Once you turn a bulb on it will reset the timer on the system that does the retained power timer. What I have seen in three trucks(2010 and 2012) is if you let the truck sit for 3 or 4 days of below 0 F temps and try to start it with the remote start is that it will not crank fast enough to start, and if you go out to start it, it still will not crank, or will just crank over one cylinder at a time. In my case, I can bring out my battery tender(the 1.5 amp model off my bike) , connect it up, leave the hood up, walk around open the door, reach in and try to start it, it will crank like a real cold does and will start. There is no way a battery tender can produce anywhere near enough amperage to start my FZ1 if it's battery is dead, let alone my truck. My buddy and his son both have 2012 Sierras that behave the same way, except I think they don't fire it up and drive it like I do. I live alone, so if I have to go out for an appointment, I can't just take the bike instead in the winter. I know I could prevent it by using the battery tender all the time, but in the winter this is about the only excitement I get.

Something that needs to be aware of is that when truck is in drive, 1st gear has zero engine braking. This means that when you are coasting to a "near stop", then pressing the accelerator, if the transmission zzhas alreadyz shifted into low gear, the engine will instantly increase in rpm's to catch up to your speed . Manual ow gear(when you manually select low or 1st gear} will give you engine braking. I don't know how it works in GM transmissions, but in the old style torqueflyte transmissions, when shifted to low gear it would apply the low/reverse band to enable engine braking. Otherwise the overrunning(or one way) clutch would just freewheel. Back in those days I would just adjust the governor mounted on the output shaft by changing a small spring. Could do that without removing entire transmission, just needed to slide the extension housing back about 4 inches. The easiest way to see this is to put the truck in manual low gear before you get to the corner, or to the thing that normally made the issue you are having. If the issue goes away, then the transmission is downshifting into automatic low and behaving correctly. Or you could make yourself aware of the situation and alter your driving habits. This never happened prior to current technology because current technology has removed engine braking in most gears to help emissions and improve fuel economy. I don't know if this is something that can be tuned better or not, but GM should be aware of it happening. Maybe if more people complained more about it, GM may look into a simple minor adjustment to the firmware to better handle how it downshifts into low gear.

There are two sides to this issue isn't there? You have throw all the mechanical parts at it, it would seem to me that you may be overlooking something in the electrical side. This is going to sound stupid, but, when they test do they actually connect a scan tool, or do they simply use a sniffer and look for a light on the dash? Reason I ask is that about 15nyears ago I installed a centrifugal supercharger on a 2000 ML320 Mercedes. This kit was from Mosselman, and would set a check engine light if you ran under boost too long for the evap syztem. At the time we had emission testing on rollers. There was an at idle test and then a simulated.ighway test. I knew it would fail the highway portion. When it came time to test it, it passed with flying colours. Seems AWD vehicles had the idle test, and a test at 2000 rpm in park. The inspection stations only had one set of rollers. And since it couldn't use the rollers, no ECM connection, just an inspection to see if the CEL light was on during the test. I had pulled the bulb out as a "Hail Mary", ,just in case, effort and it paid off. They didn't even bring it into the shop. They backed the truck up to the shop door, ran the sniffer out the door into the exhaust, and used the tach in the dash to do the highway test. It passed the sniffer test easily, he only needed to rest his foot on the gas pedal to get to 2000 rpm. After I got the truck back to my buddies place I stuck the bulb back in and found it had set the CEL on the way to the shop. Merging into traffic on the 401 set the light. I finally resolved the CEL issue by putting two big vacuum cans on it. That truck missed the grandfather limit by a year. Then the government just killed the entire program last year, saying it served its purpose and got the worst cars off the road.

What colour is the brake fluid? It may be a bit of a reach, but, if the fluid is more dark amber or brown, the sensor may be upset with the amount of moisture in the system. Brake fluid loves moisture. But it is bad for the brake system due to the lowering of the boiling point.

It would be pretty simple to make a fix. Put a weather proof micro switch inside the receiver so that when a ball mount is slid in the micro switch breaks the the wire that powers the gate. I think the people that think it would never happen to them will be the first to forget. Your entire (so far) life you have been dropping a tailgate the same way. Muscle memory is a bitch. The reason very few closed the Ext cab doors in the wrong order was there wasn't any muscle memory. If you did happen to close the front door first, the sound it made was so wrong it woke you up.

Sorry, misread the type of injection.

I'm thinking you are lucky to get the truck up to highway speeds with fuel pressure that low. Are you sure you are testing it correctly? You should be testing at the Schrader valve on fuel line. I do not recall if your engine has the vacuum controlled fuel return line, but if it does try blocking the fuel return line and see what pressure you get. EFI has always been upwards of 50 to 60 psi over all the various systems from the different car companies, so 12psi is not normal.

Do you know that by misspelling Ford like you do makes your posts appear like they were written by a. 14 year old?

I think alot of people simply are stuck in the era of wet intake manifolds (fuel wet, not coolant wet) and traditional ignition systems. There was a camshaft company back in the late 70s/early 80s that was pushing a kit that consisted of 12:1 pistons and a special camshaft grind that allowed engines to use regular fuel on a high compression engine. For the life of me I cannot recall which company it was. They used the camshaft profile to allow it to work. There is no sense in being stuck in the era of port injection. Direct njection was a huge improvement that most people simply either don't believe it, or don't understand it. Direct injection can allow regular fuel to be used with high compression, including the cylinder pressures under 14psi boost conditions. I can understand the doubt, but, don't really get the idea of writing this engine off without ever seeing it this engine is not shown on the Silverado or the Sierra website. GM is showing the 5.3 as the standard engine, with no indication the 2.7 will even be in the 2019 truck. Ford put the V6 Ecoboost engine in their 150 series of pickups 8 years ago and the pundits declared that engine would never work in a pickup truck, and who would ever tow with a lowly V6. You have to admit Ford accomplished what they set out to do. Engine power has nothing to do with the number of pistons it has. It does however have everything to do with the effective displacement. A 2.7 litre engine running under 14psi of boost is now effectively a 5.4 litre engine. It has half the rotating mass of a V8 5.4 litre engine, and that frees up some power that gets transferred to output. The addition of direct injection has changed how engines are tuned. And it is not just a simple single change, it changes the pressure of injection, the timing of the injection, how the fuel is injected, even the number of times the fuel is injected in one compression stroke. Ford is so sold on the ecoboost engine that they are putting a 450 horsepower and 510 pound-feet of torque ecoboost into the 2019 F150 pickup truck. A v6 in a pickup truck. Don't know how far back this website has threads available, it would be interesting to see how many predicted that a V6 would never be able to tow reliably. I simply prefer to wait to see this technological wonder of an engine. I have already called my GM salesman to have him call me when the first 2.7 sales lot truck comes in so I can take it for a weekend test drive.

It can also adjust camshaft duration and lift to control mechanical compression at will. This engine sounds like it can be altered to be as mild or wild on demand to please near all users. Many decades ago one of the then major cam grinders offered a cam and piston/connecting rod kit that gave compression ratio that measured near 13:1, and ran on low octane fuel. The trick was in the cam grind that effectively killed compression in low engine speeds, but as rpm's rose, so did compression. Can't recall which cam grinder it was. It was back in late, 70s, early 80s. It wasn't Crane, or Comp Cam'!! ¿!

Where is the seal leaking, is it between the seal and the housing, or between the seal and the pinion? Its not leaking by the splines of the pinion gear and the flange is it? If it is between the housing and the seal, generally RTV around the seal will stop it. If it is between the pinion flange and the seal, it may be time to measure the diameter of the seal area on the pinion flange and compare it to a new one. If its between the splines and the pinion flange, again RTV is your friend. Trick to RTV is to let it cure before exposing it to oil. Oil will just wash it away. If you can get the shop to do it on a Friday afternoon and then let it sit till Monday before refilling the housing.

I missed something in my first reply to this, Samsung did not get sued, nor has any others of the ones mentioned. Don't know where you got the idea they did, but, you simply accepting something like that without doing a simple google search to authenticate the story is a result of living in fear, not freedom. BTW, allowing my insurance company to use my smart phone to monitor my driving for 1,000km has resulted in a $268 refund on my insurance premium. My monitoring window ended last week. If I didn't want them watching where I was going it was quite simple to get around. Put my Sim into my Nokia windows phone and go where I wanted to, and drive as badly as I wanted. If I need to do this again at renewal time, I will do it again. Hopefully they will apply this to my bike insurance.

The only reason I have a pickup truck is that after having 2 fusion done in my back and expecting a third fusion later this year I simply cannot fold myself up enough to get into a car anymore. This new engine will get a serious look by me as my 2010 is approaching 10 years old.

You need to keep in mind that at 14-15 pounds boost you are essentially going to get torque numbers of an engine that's double in size displacement wise. You will also consume the fuel as though the engine is double the size. A 4l engine would end up consuming fuel like an 8 litre engine when under max boost. The hit on CAFE numbers would make it not worthwhile.

I prefer to play the odds and simply not bother worrying that today I may be the one in 35 million (I am in Canada, guess I am 10 times more lucky to be the one that gets violated.) that gets his ass monitored. I have a 3 times better chance at winning our big Friday draw lottery. The government is not some faceless machine. It is comprised of regular people like everyone reading this. That means a good number are also in fear of being monitored. I think sometimes tv and movies are too real.

That is in regards to the firmware in the ecu. If they won that lawsuit you would have the laws as what is applied to your DirectTv receiveri. It would not stop a company from creating a new ecu with its own protected firmware. . It has nothing to do with changing a camshaft. It actually has zero implications to probably 90% of the vehicle owners.