johnnyquick

Go to Boostautoparts.com they have exactly what you need brother!

Leave battery connected that part of the install/ removal is bullshit, I have had one on and off for 3 years now. Disconnect the main harness where the Pulsar was installed and double check the connection is secure and be sure that you roll the "wheel"connector as you slide the connectors together until the little red pin will slide into the slot, my gues the connector is not fully seated there is no possibility of the truck being electrically DEAD if these are both fully seated. LMK how it works

Says the man with a cartoon character of a TROLL for an AVI...LMAO Or is that your hero or what you wished you looked like? Just curious.

Dont use 0W20 unless you want your truck to puke early. And dont worry about warranty they will NEVER honor one amyway.

I disagree I am going along with Linemans idea I think they are lovers and not the same person.

What values exactly may I ask as it seems this was directed at the 2020 election to me....Thanks for your clarification

No kidding Linemen are needed electrical engineers are a dime a dozen and apparently come with inflated egos.

Golly gee that sounds divisive THIS is why that particular group is so special if you dont go along with their twisted thinking then you are *****ing this or that.. Focus on your DEI and LBGTQFYRZ stuff and leave us out of it.

Actually it was if your net worth was more than 100 million not what you make every year. Just an FYI from a guy that can read but only a quick 4 year degree. I don't operate a train either

Very impressive, explain why everyone else is pleased to see that admin go..........well except for the "select" groups LMAO

Do you still have the little fuel tank like my 1500 Silverado? With max tow package and 6.2 with 10 speed between Eastern Wa and Lake Havasu AZ I usually can pull off 8mpg at best (6 in the mts)with my 24' enclosed car hauler. Makes for frequent stops indeed over 70mph though.

I have been paying more for everything I buy the past 3 3/4 years............ Nothing can scare me as bad now that sh*t for brains is leaving office, bring on the Tarriffs, The Tyrrany and the subjugation of Women that the left warned us about

Not enough holes in the Earth can be dug to get the material required to fuel the electric dream and not enough holes can be dug to get rid of the waste either. We are not there yet in MANY areas of the electric dream.

I pray that they DO happen for the sake of our economy.

Blah blah blah .............AI made up a post how cute

Some for sale now in the classies above your ad

What if any engine mods have you done? Maf or Throttle body?

The catch can on my 2020 6.2 catches a lot of crap that would go through my system otherwise, and the cost is negligible IMO, Firm believer given the cost of trucks these days

Run with it, the carcass of the tire is quite thick beyond the tread plus the steel belts in there so if it was going to leak it would have already I believe and an occasional short screw never hurt anyone

Rotofab with Jet performance MAF and Throttle body along with Corsa Sport and Pulsar LT has definately woken up my 6.2.

I used red caliper covers, https://www.amazon.com/MGP-Calipers-Chevrolet-Caliper-14252Sbowrd/dp/B07MY75M8R/ref=asc_df_B07MY75M8R?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80745505366414&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584345031922620&psc=1 Pricey but 4 years on em with no issues.

It does render remote start inoperable, I don't use it at home but when travelling it is a minor inconvenience to me. Well worth 100 bucks IMO.

May I ask which shop you used? EPC racing in Spokane, Wa seems to be knowledgeable about the installs AND more importantly to me the dyno tuning.

No, they are NOT they should spin as easily as the OEM's I have done many brake jobs myself over the years, something is amiss here. Did you get Calipers, rotors and pads all as a set, was the system bled properly? does it pull to one side while driving,..... and or while braking? The pad should not be touching the rotor at all unless the pedal is being pushed down, take the wheel off with it up on a jack and safety stand and check out the pad/ rotor contact itself or go to a brake shop that has a great reputation and ask them to check it out. OR you could try showing the dealer the issue, most dealers seem to suck IMO though. Specialty shops seem to do better. On another subject did you post up anything on the whipple anywhere, I was just looking at that option as I am near the end of warranty.

For a Frankenstein motor with ZERO warranty