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So, I have been having this sound coming from the front right wheel. I thought it was the wheel bearing but it doesn't really sound like it too much to me. I thought to maybe grease the fittings as well but I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this problem before. Thanks! (Skip to the end for a better sound). New Recording 7.m4a

Hello everyone. I've been looking for a raptor style grille for my '14 silverado 1500. I see ones online that I like but I can only find them for the 16-18 models. They have the 3 amber led's on top and "CHEVROLET" fairly large across the middle. For these, you can find them for 120-175 dollars. The only raptor style grills I've found for the 14-15 chevy have the amber lights but no chevrolet across the front. I've also seen grills with chevrolet across the front but don't have any lights AND they cost 500-700 dollars and at that point, I would just stick to the stock grill. Anyone have any ideas on where I could find this? or ways that I could maybe buy the blank grill with the lights and buy lettering somewhere separately and somehow attach them to the grill? I've attached 3 pictures. The first one is what I want but it's not the right year. Second is what I can find for my year and 3rd is the one with no lights, but has lettering across middle for 600 dollars. Any advice would be awesome!

My 2017 Sierra had a 2" Motofab front level installed by a local accessory shop, and I had unresolved noises and issues which were troubleshooted by the installing shop and my dealership until I got rid of the truck. I traded the truck for a 2019 AT4 and am now very hesitant to level a brand new truck. My dealership is recommending they install the Pro Comp 63235 for $875. They even have a few trucks on the lot with this kit installed. Dealer says they will stand by factory warranty if they do the work, but Pro Comp says this kit is not rated for the AT4, so I am hesitant to go this route. The local accessory shop is quoting the only kit made for the AT4 - Rough Country Sku: 1318 for $350. My end goal is to level the front and go with 295/65/20 (35.1") or 295/60/20 (33.9") Nitto Ridge Grapplers, but my concerns are warranty and sacrificing ride quality. The noises and constantly chasing issues made me hate driving my previous truck. Has anyone ever been denied OEM warranty work due to an after market front level? Rough Country says to contact them immediately if this would be the case, but the "Warranty Guard" fine print looks like the beginning of a run-around. I appreciate any thoughts and experiences.

So I purchased a 98 sierra 1500. Drove it around for a few days before I realized the front speakers in the door didn't have any sound. So, i did what any other sane man would do, and replaced the speakers. Theres still no sound. The stereo was already replaced with the duel din out of my previous truck. So it's not that. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the only thing left to replace would be the wiring correct?

So brought my truck to dealer to get skid plates put on. Asked them to remove the front air dam and they said the 2018's are no longer able to be removed. Anyone have pics of theirs removed or know how to remove it?

Anyone have any good suggestions for a front parking sensor that isn't OEM. I just want something simple to set up in the bumper somewhere that tells me very basically how close I am to anything in the front. I have the backup camera so I don't need anything in the back but just want something so I can confidently pull as far forward in a parking space as possible. I've looked around online and can't seem to find anything really simple that is plug and play. It doesn't have to plug into the Chevy system at all either. Thanks!

I know a lot of people are running black rims on white trucks and blacked out black trucks and color matching etc. I decided to go old school chrome (lux) look. I made this happen on the front end by swapping out my black front bumper skid shield with the denali chrome one. I also as some of you may know, whited out my badges with reflective vinyle (see profile pic) and decided on chrome rims, exception, these rims are powder coated and flashed for the exact same look as chrome except they clean up just like paint. soap and water and wax. So this may not be for all but it takes me back a bit while still be modern. By the way, to remove this and replace. off comes the under grill molding, the radiator shroud, the front grill, the front bumper, remove both bumper backing plates remove and replace skid plate. i followed these instructions... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-do4lHsbydM

Hi, 03 Yukon Xl Denali 6.0 AWD. Has a growl/whine noise in the front end as I slow down after a long stretch of highway speed. Happens at low speed before stopping. It also makes a clunk sound as I accelerate out of a low speed turn in the front end. A slight delay in engaging and clunk sound. Front differential, transfer case, wheel bearings? Anybody deal with something similar or can identify? Thanks guys

Hello, I recently installed OEM Chevrolet black bowties on my 2016 Silverado. Though I was unable to make a video recording the process, I did find a lot of shortcuts along the way that may be helpful to others. Below is a guide of how to do the swap yourself. -------------------------------------------------- ***Front Bowtie Removal/Install (30 min or less, 10 if you know what to look for):*** - To remove the front bowtie, Chevrolet recommends that you remove the entire front grille assembly. however, I found this is not necessary. If you lay underneath the front of the truck, you will see a plastic cover that fills the gap between the front bumper and the frame to cover the bottom side of the radiator from debris. - There are three (3) plastic body molding/trim molding connectors that will need to be removed (one in the center and one to either side about 18 inches out). I found the best way to do this was with a short bladed flat head screw driver and both hands. Simply put, force will coerce the pins out of their plug holders. - Once those are removed you will be able to stick your arm through the underside of the radiator protector and feel the four (4) tabs and two (2) pins that hold the front emblem to the grille. - To remove the emblem, I used a key (spare, cheap one) to push the tabs outward from the center while pushing away from the front with my hand to pop the tab out of the clip area. I suggest starting from one side and making your way to the other. This did take slightly more force than I expected, so do not be afraid to push outward and away from the grille. - Once all 4 tabs are free, you should be able to get out from under the front and remove the emblem completely from the front of the grille. - The new, black bowtie, should snap right in!!! No glue or tape needed! **The 2016 Silverado 1500 uses a different front emblem than the 14 or 15 models, make sure you purchase the proper emblems for your truck!!! ---------------------------------------- ***Rear Bowtie Removal/Install (1 hour or so, if done right):*** - First, gather the necessary tools to complete the job: Hair dryer or Heat gun, 2 microfiber towels, WD40, Goo B Gone, Fishing line (I used 50LB line, right size and strength, but you can used the guts of parachute cord and i have heard of dental floss, but that seemed silly), isopropyl alcohol, water, painters tape, plastic scraping blade/tool, small amount of gasoline (explained later) - Using the painters tape, outline the emblem on all 4 sides, careful to follow all the edges as close as possible. This will stay there until the new emblem is placed, serving as your guide lines. - Disclosure: I removed the back emblem on a 93 degree day, my truck is dark colored, and I used a hair dryer. Other conditions may require longer heating time. Heat the emblem to soften the adhesive backing on the emblem making it easier to remove (yes this actually makes it easier). Use your own judgment, heat until you think it is ready, just don't overheat. - Using the fishing line (or whatever you have), begin at one corner and slice through the backing. I would do an inch or so at a time and then reheat the nest area I was removing. This process took about 7-10 minutes to get off completely. - If you are lucky (like hit the lottery lucky), the adhesive backing will come off with the emblem, and there will not be much left on the tailgate. But, if yours is anything like mine, the adhesive will be stuck on the tailgate. spray this with WD40 and/or Goo B Gone, allow to soak momentarily, and use the scraping tool to remove the thickest parts of the adhesive back. There will be leftover glue on the tailgate. - You can play around with WD40/Goo B Gone to get the rest off, or you can be like me and take it off in seconds. This is where that gasoline comes into play. Using one of your microfiber towels, apply a liberal amount of gas and the glue should come right off. This should not harm the paint at all, as long as you clean it off within a day. - Now that you have the glue and adhesive backing removed, you need to sterilize the area to put the new emblem on. Mix a one to one mixture of the rubbing alcohol and water. Using the other microfiber towel, wipe the area clean. The alcohol will dissolve the WD40 and Goo B Gone and anything else that would prevent good adhesion. Clean until you are satisfied. - The area should be ready to be fitted with the new emblem now. I would perform some dryfits, with the adhesive backing cover still on so that you get a feel for where it should go. Then, remove the film, and slowly and carefully place the new emblem. Make sure and press firmly once positioned to ensure good adhesion. - Step back and admire your work. ------------------------------------------------------------------ Here are some pictures of my success! (I also added the OEM GM backup camera that my truck did not come with. If you need one like I did, I can tell you about that process too! I have a big hitch on, and backing into every spot, since I hate backing out, was getting risky.)

New to the site and looking for some help on my recently acquired 2002 Avalanche 1500 4x4 with 140k miles. I was working on replacing the front wheel hub and half-shaft yesterday. Finally got the hub out using an air chisel and hammer. Hub was rusted in pretty tight. So after I got the hub out I used a wire brush on the steering knuckle to remove all of the rust. I put a thick layer of anti-seize on the knuckle and put the hub in. The hub slid right into the knuckle. It was actually so loose that it would fall out if I did hold it in and I could move it slightly around in the hole. I was in a hurry as I was running late for diner with the in-laws and didn’t think about it much at the time. Reassembled everything and took it for a test drive. Truck ran great ABS light went out and everything seemed fine. Later that evening I started thinking about it and remembered that every other hub I had replaced I had to pull it into the knuckle with the mounting bolts. So now I am thinking that the hub is being held in place only by the three mounting bolt rather than by the tight fit of the hub to the steering knuckle hole. So do I need to replace the steering knuckle due to the rust enlarging the hole for the wheel hub? I am worried about driving the truck with just the three mounting bolt holding up the front wheel.

Hi everyone im new here and need some help. I have a 1990 gmc sierra 3500 4x4 and yesterday i was flexing while 4 wheeling and noticed my front right leaking gear oil. I looked closer and noticed my right side inner axle popped out and wouldn't pop back in. So now it is loose inside and leaked all the gear oil out. Im thinking it could be a c-clip broke? But i was told my truck doesnt have those.. any help would be much appreciated thank you..

Just installed front grille amber LED's, GM exhaust tip, and running boards, or in this case, bars. Anybody else with front LED's??

I know there is a couple topics about this and there seems to be some interest so I thought I would bring it up again. I am finding it hard to get used to the length of the font of the truck. My SLT has the rear camera but not park assist. Is there anyway to hook up a front facing camera to the factory head unit?

My 07 Z71 has a rattle noise that sounds like it is coming from the front. I have searched high and low to find anyone else with this problem and all I could find was everyone saying at low speed, steering shaft or it rattles with any bump. The noise I am hearing sounds like a washer spinning on a shaft. It only does it around 65-73 MPH. The only thing I have done to it is replaced the passenger side cv axle about a year ago when it broke. This was before the noise started. I replaced it on the drivers side about three weeks ago due to the noise and it popping in 4wheel. It fixed the popping of course but not the rattle noise. I checked everything I could think to check but have had no luck. The one thing I am leaning towards more than anything is I grabbed the axle where it is bolted to the flange that goes into the differential and tried to turn forward and reverse to check for play I noticed it move up and down a little where it goes in the differential just a bit. It wasn't much but was noticeable. I am just curious as to where I need to start looking, what to look at and has anybody had this issue. I'm at a loss right now.

How many have had a front hub assembly fail so far? My driver side failed this last weekend on a Sunday (of course) while traveling 300 miles into the north country so a motel stay and costly repairs were in order. ($450 and I hate paying someone to do what I can easily do at home) The strange thing is that the bearing made absolutely no noise or vibration until the point that it began to grind and squeal. I pulled over right away and pushed the wheel back and forth top to bottom and nearly fainted. LOTS of slop. Luckily we made it another 50 miles to a town with services. Seems like low mileage for a hub to go bad and now I'm wondering about the other side...

This grille came off my 2014 Chevy Silverado 1500 LT Texas Edition. I swapped out the chrome grille with a standard black one I bought from ebay. This grille is in perfect condition and can be shipped anywhere in the lower 48 states. I would rather sell locally because it is a big box but I can get shipping quotes for those interested. I am selling this grille for $300, which is $100 less than the same grilles are selling for on eBay so I'm not looking to negotiate on price. I am willing to possibly exchange for different wheels you may have for a Silverado though. If you have any more questions feel free to call or send a text message to me on my cell at 936-828-1985. Have a good day.

We have a 2001 Silverado 1500 2wd that had squealing brakes. We ended up replacing the pads and rotors on both front wheels. It worked great the day we did them, no more chirping, but now, one day later, they seem to be squealing again and they seem to be getting very hot. Did we do something wrong? How do we know if we tightened the calipers too much or if they are sliding correctly? Should we just take the tires off and grease up the slider brackets and pins in the calipers? Any suggestions would be helpful! I'm just a girl trying to save alittle money and now I think I might have screwed them up HELP