Compressor Bad?

[jtupper]

2000 Tahoe 5.3

 

Let me preface this by saying this problem started this past Saturday AFAIK. I noticed a slight vibration when stopped at a red light that would go away when I turned the a/c off. This wasn’t exactly engine drag or a rough idle, but a slight vibration. Later that day I began hearing this jackhammer noise on acceleration or when I revved up the engine. Again, if the a/c is turned off it goes away. I searched high and low to find the source to no avail.

 

Yesterday, the a/c stopped working completely so after some investigation I realized that the a/c belt snapped. I figured that had to be the source of the noise. I picked up a new serpentine belt, a/c belt and tensioner pulley at the parts house and started on my repair. When I climbed under the truck, I noticed I also had a tranny fluid leak, but I’ll be damned if I could locate the source. Anyway, I put in the new belts and pulley and started the truck without the fan shroud to get a good look at everything before I put it back together completely. I then noticed a lot of movement and vibrating from the tensioner so I figured it was bad too.

 

So, I disassemble everything to head off to the parts house to pick up a tensioner. As I am puling the tensioner back off, I noticed some tranny fluid around the edges of the pulley. Upon further examination, I found the source of my fluid leak. The tensioner pulley was knocking against the cooling lines and caused a small leak. I replaced the belts and tensioner and tried to tie wrap the cooling lines out of the way as best I could. Bottom line, the damn thing is still making that horrible sound.

 

After much reading and research, it seems that the compressor may be the root of the problem causing the tensioner pulley to jump around. I have found TSB 03-01-38-019A and, although it doesn’t apply to my year model, it describes my problem to a tee almost. The only thing is I don’t lose a/c system performance.

 

What is the likelihood that this is my problem also? If it is, is the compressor something I could do myself? If I do it myself, can I just take it to the a/c shop afterward to have it flushed properly or does that have to be done before reassembly?

 

Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to get all the details in. BTW…I have it at the tranny shop right now having the cooling line replaced.

 

 

Here is the info on the TSB:

 

Underhood Rattle Noise Heard on Acceleration (Check A/C System Performance and Compressor Operation) #03-01-38-019A - (Sep 3, 2004)

 

Underhood Rattle Noise Heard On Acceleration (Check A/C System Performance and Compressor Operation)

 

2003-2004 Cadillac CTS

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Express, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2002-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Savana, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

2002-2004 Commercial Upfitter Chassis Vehicles

2003-2004 HUMMER H2 with Air Conditioning (A/C)

 

This bulletin is being revised to update the service procedure and parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-019 (Section 01 -- HVAC).

 

Condition

Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of A/C system performance.

 

Cause

Service Information

This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be damaged.

 

Correction

Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following repair procedure:

 

1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized.

Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized, proceed to step 5.

 

2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that are found.

 

3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.

 

4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.

 

5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

 

6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace the transmission cooler lines if necessary.

 

7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada, the District Service Manager).

 

8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.

 

9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

 

10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement procedure in SI.

 

11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the performance of the A/C system.

 

12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.

 

13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.

[Spurshot]

Been here done that. My 99 2500 had some compressor problems early on. The belt squealed occasionally and finally got trashed and eventually threw the belt. I replaced the belt and it came and went for a while. Went away and it went to about 135,000 miles when the a/c finally quit due to other problems. I changed the compressor at that time, just for insurance. I bought a vacumn pump, gauges and all the tools necessary to do a/c work. A/C work at shops is expensive. With three vehicles, I wanted to do it myself. You'll get $400-500 into tools right off. About what the LABOR will be to replace a compressor, tensioner, some other parts and re-charge the system.

 

If you are interested in this, go to the ACkits.com website and then to their forum. You'll learn a lot about a/c there.

[jtupper]

Been here done that. My 99 2500 had some compressor problems early on. The belt squealed occasionally and finally got trashed and eventually threw the belt. I replaced the belt and it came and went for a while. Went away and it went to about 135,000 miles when the a/c finally quit due to other problems. I changed the compressor at that time, just for insurance. I bought a vacumn pump, gauges and all the tools necessary to do a/c work. A/C work at shops is expensive. With three vehicles, I wanted to do it myself. You'll get $400-500 into tools right off. About what the LABOR will be to replace a compressor, tensioner, some other parts and re-charge the system.

 

If you are interested in this, go to the ACkits.com website and then to their forum. You'll learn a lot about a/c there.

I don't think I want to drop that much money into specialty tools I might only use once or twice. I could probably get my hands on a set of gauges. What else would I need?

 

BTW...thanks for the link. I will look into that this evening.

[Spurshot]

Gonna need a good book on A/C (MasterCool has one) gauges (R-134), an a/c specific vacumn pump (R-134), can tap for freon cans, a schrader valve wrench, and a thermometer to check vent outlet temps...that may get you by. I just recharged the 99 a few weeks ago. All I used was those items.

 

Check out the ACkits.com site for these items or ebay. I bought my MasterCool vacumn pump from ebay for about half price, secondhand, but not used. Get your gauges from Chick over at ACkits for sure. He knows which sets have good quality. I checked ebay, looks like you could get a 6 CFM pump for about $140. You might get lucky and get by for about $250-300 for getting started. You'll save this much on your first recharge. If you have a friend that is interested, you might split the costs. Makes a lot of sense. This stuff sets around for quite a while for a one vehicle guy.

[jtupper]

Doesn't sound like something for your typical DIY'er. I knew flushing the sytem would be an issue, but I didn't realize you needed all of those special tools. I also thought all of the EPA recovery stuff wasn't required for the R134a.