Jump to content

Bed differences


Recommended Posts

Posted

For possible future reference, I need to know if there are any major differences between the bed used on any of the trucks between 67-72.  For example, if i had a 1970 pickup with a bed in very poor shape, could I simply use a bed in good shape from any of the other years?  Mainly any differences in body lines of the bedsides.  Thanks

Posted

Ok guys, I got the bed question answered over on PUTC.  So that part is covered, but now I have another question.

 

What front and rear axles were used on a 1970 K10 and K20?  I'm not very sure what kind of axles were used in this era trucks and earlier....

Posted

Hey Kansas Kid,

 

I will attempt to answer this question too.  

 

The front axles used in 67’- 72’ 10 and 20 series 4x4’s was the beloved Dana 44.  In those years GM did not offer a Dana 60 front axle, to my knowledge anyway. And a 4x4 1 ton did not exist until the next body style in 1973 or 1974.  Disk brakes did not come available until 1971 on both two-wheel and four-wheel drives.  As far as the rear axle, it becomes sorta hazy considering Chevrolet and GMC were basically two entire different companies back then and were much more different in terms of drivetrains and suspension and target markets.  1973 is the first year Chevrolet and GMC became mechanically identical twins.  Based on what I have seen is as follows:

 

½ tons:

Chevrolet used corporate 12 bolt semi-floating axles in the half-tons

GMC used semi-floating Dana 44’s, 60’s, and corporate 12 bolts depending on the year and engine.  My 68’ GMC half-ton with a factory big block came with a rare semi-floating Dana 60

 

¾ -tons:

Chevrolet used only full-floating Eaton rear axles.  I am not sure of the model number or ring gear diameters but they had a removable front carrier assembly similar to a Ford 9’.

GMC used the full-floating Eaton rear axle and full-floating Dana 60.  

 

All 67’-72’ GMC’s ½ ton and ¾ tons came standard with rear leaf springs while Chevrolet came standard with rear coil springs.  However, leaf sprung rear suspension was an option for Chevrolet.

Posted

Kansas Kid,

 

Sorry I didn’t answer your question over there on that other site but I didn’t see your last post.  I would rather use this forum anyway.  Getting board with all the newbies over there crying about their new trucks and 16 year olds making ridicules remarks.  

 

So tell me, what is the 70’ 4x4 you have lined up? ½ ton, ¾ ton, shorty or long bed? What engine and trans does it have?  How much do they want? What is the address to where it is parked?  LOL just kidding, I don’t need another truck until I unload my latest acquisition….that is, if I decide to unload it.

Posted

Well I will tell you what I can.  Only details I have gotten on this truck have come through my ole man.  A guy he works with is gonna sell this truck sometime in a month or so, and mydad mentioned it to me.  (although I know how that, I want to sell it in a month goes)

 

So for right now I don't know much details wise.  I do know the truck is a long bed and it has a 4-speed manual.  Which I believe would be a SM465.  I also know it has a V8 engine, but is it original, or a swap job??  Also don't know if I'm looking at a 1/2 or 3/4 ton yet either.  Like I said, my dad didn't get much for details.  LOL  But I do know it runs good, the guy loads his trash up and takes it to the dump about once a month.  Also know its top speed is about 60mph.  (really good info there), and the body is fairly rough.

 

I'm gonna ask my Dad to find out if its a K10 or K20 and what kind of motor it has on Friday.  I'm not really concerened as to what model it is, I just want an old 4wd to mess around with.   :)

Posted

Sounds good to me….You mentioned the truck is a 4-speed manual.  Depending on the original engine the truck could have either a SM435 or SM465.  As for what I have seen and played with, most originally equipped 6 cylinder 4x4’s had the SM435 with a Dana 300 transfer case and the V8’s had SM465’s attached to NP205 transfercase.  Since you are not sure if the truck underwent an engine swap job or not these are the possible drivelines.  Both are tranys and tcases are good.  Hope this and the axle info is helpful.

 

Good luck on your possible score.

Posted
Hope this and the axle info is helpful.

 

Good luck on your possible score.

Yes, it has been very helpful.  I'm not sure I would have been able to figure out the axle, tranny, and t-case setup without your info.  I'm gonna hold out hope for an original V8 truck, I like the idea of an SM465 and NP205.   :)

 

But one other thing, I was told that autotrac wasn't available on these trucks!  How exactly am I supposed to get around in the winter time?  Does this mean I'm gonna have to know when I actually need 4wd, and heaven forbid, get out and lock the hubs in.  ;)

Posted
But one other thing, I was told that autotrac wasn't available on these trucks!  How exactly am I supposed to get around in the winter time?  Does this mean I'm gonna have to know when I actually need 4wd, and heaven forbid, get out and lock the hubs in.

 

HAHAHA!!!

 

Yup, that means will have to get out in the frigid weather and twist those tuff dials on the hubs then you will have to manually yank on that odd looking stick on the floor of the cab.  Then heaven forbid, you will have to yank on that stick again when you hit dry ground.  I know it seems like a lot of work for some people but I know you will survive.   LOL

Posted

Oh man, I better hit the weight room so I can lock those hubs in and pull that crud looking lever on the floor.  lol

 

Got a request in for my ole man to find out more info on the truck tomorrow, so I hope he gets it....

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My house is set at 75. My car at 70. When I have guests the house is at 70. 
    • OK you say you could hang meat but what was the actual temp? One of the AC systems job is to remove humidity that we feel on our body your new system removed alot of humidity as that is were the water comes from on the ac coils and that made it feel colder. 80 degrees with high humidity will feel hot vs 80 degrees with low humidity will feel alot cooler.
    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...