Jump to content

Dropped The Tranny Pan


Recommended Posts

Posted

Just got done dropping the pan and changing the filter. added 5 quarts of dex6. Was a pretty messy job, never have done it before. I would totally recommend putting in a drain plug (which i did not). When I got the pan out and looked at the magnet you couldnt even see it because it was full of sediment so im glad i did this.

 

As far as anything being in the way.. I took the heat shield off and the shift bracket (easy). The exhaust or the driveshaft was not in the way at all. Im kinda wondering about the fluid that spilled all over the exhaust, I cleaned it off best I could with rags but that stuff isnt gonna catch fire is it?? It was smokin a little bit. Anyway just thought I would let people know its pretty easy because I was trying to decide if i should take it to a shop or do it myself. Later

Posted

Glad you posted this, because I was about to take mine to the dealer to do it. How much did it all cost you and where did you buy the fluid and filter from?

Posted

The Automatic Trans uses clutch plates that will shed some debree in normal use. This is the material you find in the pan. This is also why Automatics usually don't have drain plugs. They want you to pull the pan, clean it, install the new filter and then refill your Trans. You can add a lot of life to an Automatic by keeping clean fluid in it.

Posted
Glad you posted this, because I was about to take mine to the dealer to do it. How much did it all cost you and where did you buy the fluid and filter from?

 

Well I bought 6 quarts of amsoil $10 a quart. filter and gasket came together got it at autozone for like $20 i think. Thats prettymuch it. I didnt even attempt to take the seal out that the filter goes into. I felt up in there and it seemed ok so i left it in.

Posted

Some company, Snap On maybe must make a tool that can quickly pull that seal out, I think it needs replacement before the filter goes in. I have struggled to replace that seal each time I do one. I usually colapse it and pull it out. Maybe someone knows of a good tool to pull these? It sits up in that hole and is only what, 3/4 of an inch diameter. Hard to pull with normal tools.

Posted
Some company, Snap On maybe must make a tool that can quickly pull that seal out, I think it needs replacement before the filter goes in. I have struggled to replace that seal each time I do one. I usually colapse it and pull it out. Maybe someone knows of a good tool to pull these? It sits up in that hole and is only what, 3/4 of an inch diameter. Hard to pull with normal tools.

 

 

Yeah thats why I just left it in. Hope it doesnt F anything up. Hey got a question for you.. when i start my truck up to try and check the fluid it just smokes really bad cuz i got some fluid on the exhaust. is that stuff gonna catch on fire or just smoke til its burned off?? I wiped it all down but there is still residue on there. THanks

Posted

You should not catch fire. It will take a little bit to "burn" off. The best tool to use is a gasket removal tool. It looks like a crazy hook thing. works good and is only $3 or $4 bucks at Autozone. I was working on my truck to this weekend. Taking lots of pics so I can do a how to on the rear bumper cover replacement. Super easy! As my one is rusted the other was replaced! The earlier post is true about not mixing o-ring gaskets by the way. You most likely will be fine. The o-ring can be different from one company to he other due to slightly larger or smaller outer diameters of the filter's stalk. Again, you should be fine as long as it went in nice and snug!

Posted
You should not catch fire. It will take a little bit to "burn" off. The best tool to use is a gasket removal tool. It looks like a crazy hook thing. works good and is only $3 or $4 bucks at Autozone. I was working on my truck to this weekend. Taking lots of pics so I can do a how to on the rear bumper cover replacement. Super easy! As my one is rusted the other was replaced! The earlier post is true about not mixing o-ring gaskets by the way. You most likely will be fine. The o-ring can be different from one company to he other due to slightly larger or smaller outer diameters of the filter's stalk. Again, you should be fine as long as it went in nice and snug!

 

Thanks for the info. I will remove the seal next time. Did you paint your front bumper black or did it come like that? Im trying to get rid of all the chrome on my truck. thanks

Posted

Good to hear that the exhaust crossover is not in the way of dropping the pan. Was worried we would have to drop the crossover. As for the transmission fluid spill on the exhaust. Take some brake clean and a shop rag when the exhaust is cool to touch and clean off any residual. This should take care of the burn off and smoking.

 

I wonder if the older 4L60's pans that came with a plug from the factory would fit on our trans?

Posted

The rear bumper should be done Wednesday. The front is not done yet! I did that in photoshop. I can tell you that I am having the front done after the rears are done. Powdertech is powder coating the front and rear dumpers for me. The how to post will have pics. Should come out awesome!

Posted

I agree that if you wiped the Trans oil off your exhaust it should be no danger of fire. Wipe it good and forget it, a little smoke is nothing to worry over.

Make sure the smoke is not caused by a new leak, maybe the pan gasket was not in correctly? I hope all is good.

One more concern, your torque converter holds another 4 to 5 quarts of oil, just a guess on qty since it has been over a year since I did mine. Some oils don't mix well with other brands and types.

You might want to read up on the Amsoil and see how it fares with normal Trans oil.

Posted

I just got home from a long trip, and 2008 Silverado just hit 50,000 miles. I was wondering when GM recommends us to change the tranny fluids, as well as any other recommended maintenance services. I just read (in the manual) that they recommend the first tranny oil change for normal use at 100,000 miles! I don't know if I should wait that long to change it. It is funny that you posted your results of changing your own tranny oil just when I came to the board to look for some info.

Posted
I just got home from a long trip, and 2008 Silverado just hit 50,000 miles. I was wondering when GM recommends us to change the tranny fluids, as well as any other recommended maintenance services. I just read (in the manual) that they recommend the first tranny oil change for normal use at 100,000 miles! I don't know if I should wait that long to change it. It is funny that you posted your results of changing your own tranny oil just when I came to the board to look for some info.

 

yeah i didnt really wanna go 100k without changing it. in the haynes manual it says every 30k.

Posted

Just a couple things.... The trannie fluid will smoke on the pipe but it should not catch on fire.

 

That seal.... DOES NOT HAVE TO BE CHANGED every time..... If it feels smooth and does not have a rip in it or didn't come out on the filter. Leave it alone.... Rub some new trannie fluid on it and the filter neck and push it in place.

 

If it is bad use a bent all or hacksaw blade to remove.. Either way JUST DO NOT NICK/CUT THE VALVE BODY.

 

They toss the seal in because if it is bad you need it. And then it is in the box and they do not have to package it separate. Actually that is why they call it a "Filter Kit". It has everything you should need to change the filter in a bad situation. They also sell just a "Filter" in a box by itself.

 

I have only changed the gasket 1 time in my 1999 GMC 1500 4l60e.... I returned to GM and got a new one. The seal is the original one. I change my filter in my transmission 1 or 2 times a year depending on how much driving I do. I buy just the filter if I have it in stock edgewise I get the kit and chunk the gasket and the seal up on the shelf in my shop.... And I have had that truck since 2001, the previous owner was as particular as me but retired so he let the dealership do it.

 

Jbo

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 738 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...